What to do with punky wood

[Rob Miller]

A couple of questions if you don't mind. I've got a load of hickory. There's some nice wood there, and some nice grain. It's got some very punky areas, some that are not so bad, and some that are solid. Is it worth messing with it to try to stabilize the punky spots? Is spalting derived from stabilizing punky wood? My understanding is that spalting derives from wood that has fungal growth -- isn't that also what makes the wood punky? Or is that just decay?

Thanks!
Rob

[Dan Hintz]

Punky wood is decay that has gone far enough to break down the cellular structure of the wood beyond the point of structural stability. Spalting comes from two (or more) different colonies of fungi meeting each other within the wood... as they meet, they secrete chemicals to prevent one from encroaching on the other's territory, leading to black lines separating the two colonies.

If the wood is plain, throw it in the burn pile. If it's pretty stuff, I would save punky stuff with a clear stabilizer, and I'd save holey wood (like an/worm trail stuff) using colored resins.

[Rob Miller]

Punky wood is decay that has gone far enough to break down the cellular structure of the wood beyond the point of structural stability. Spalting comes from two (or more) different colonies of fungi meeting each other within the wood... as they meet, they secrete chemicals to prevent one from encroaching on the other's territory, leading to black lines separating the two colonies.

If the wood is plain, throw it in the burn pile. If it's pretty stuff, I would save punky stuff with a clear stabilizer, and I'd save holey wood (like an/worm trail stuff) using colored resins.

What stabilizer do you prefer? There seem to be a lot of options!

[robert baccus]

Try epoxy thinned with acetone. Hardens overnite and does not change the color of the wood.

[Rob Miller]

Try epoxy thinned with acetone. Hardens overnite and does not change the color of the wood.

So, I guess my question to that (there are always questions, aren't there?) is what is the method of treatment? You don't want to leave it in a bucket of epoxy or you'll come home to a bucket full of hardened epoxy with a piece of wood in it. Do you soak it for a given amount of time, then remove it before it hardens and drain it on a sheet of wax paper or some such? Sorry for the noob questions -- I've never done this before. :p

[John Keeton]

Rob, you don't list your location in your profile, so this may not be pertinent to you. But, generally speaking, the world is full of wood, but one's remaining time on this earth is unknown. When I first started turning, I felt the need to turn everything I was able to get. Soon, I realized the effort I was putting into a piece of inferior wood, and the result usually achieved was not a wise investment of my time. Now, I don't turn wood that is unstable, rarely turn wood with cracks unless the piece is overall has a rustic flavor, and I find I enjoy this journey so much more.

That said, for those that have the equipment, perhaps there is some challenge in salvaging wood you describe - particularly if it has unique characteristics. Until you have that equipment and knowledge, I would move on and spend the time perfecting my skills on good wood.

[Rob Miller]

Rob, you don't list your location in your profile, so this may not be pertinent to you. But, generally speaking, the world is full of wood, but one's remaining time on this earth is unknown. When I first started turning, I felt the need to turn everything I was able to get. Soon, I realized the effort I was putting into a piece of inferior wood, and the result usually achieved was not a wise investment of my time. Now, I don't turn wood that is unstable, rarely turn wood with cracks unless the piece is overall has a rustic flavor, and I find I enjoy this journey so much more.

That said, for those that have the equipment, perhaps there is some challenge in salvaging wood you describe - particularly if it has unique characteristics. Until you have that equipment and knowledge, I would move on and spend the time perfecting my skills on good wood.

Thanks, John. That's good advice. I'm in Arizona, by the way. Hickory isn't something we find much of here. Like you said, though, there's more wood than spare time for turning. Well stated.

[robert baccus]

Like John says, every piece of wood is not worth saving but some of the prettiest spalt is punky. Mix some 2 part clear epoxy and thin with acetone until it drips off the stiring stick. Find a black Vinyl (yard) bag--add your roughed out piece and liquid and play shake and bake several times during the day. By morning it should all soak up and harden. If you cut through the epoxy when returning just repeat. The wood will be at least as strong as new wood and no discolor. The commercial versions didn't work well for me and they left the wood yukky looking. Git Rot is the same as my homemade version but more expensive. An old boat repair trick.

[robert baccus]

Like John says all wood is not worth saving but some is. Mix some clear 2 part epoxy and thin with acetone until drippy. Soak your roughed out piece in this in a black Vinyl bag overnite. Hard as new wood and no discolor. An old boat repair trick.

[Rob Miller]

Like John says, every piece of wood is not worth saving but some of the prettiest spalt is punky. Mix some 2 part clear epoxy and thin with acetone until it drips off the stiring stick. Find a black Vinyl (yard) bag--add your roughed out piece and liquid and play shake and bake several times during the day. By morning it should all soak up and harden. If you cut through the epoxy when returning just repeat. The wood will be at least as strong as new wood and no discolor. The commercial versions didn't work well for me and they left the wood yukky looking. Git Rot is the same as my homemade version but more expensive. An old boat repair trick.

Thanks for the tips. How do you figure out how much epoxy to use?

Is this the epoxy (http://www.amazon.com/West-System-Epoxy-98Gallon-10-3-Pounds/dp/B002M4110K/ref=sr_1_2?s=boating-water-sports&ie=UTF8&qid=1395286940&sr=1-2&keywords=clear+liquid+epoxy) and hardener (http://www.amazon.com/West-System-Epoxy-Hardener-86-Quart/dp/B0002NY6SM/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1395287237&sr=1-1&keywords=epoxy+hardener) you'd recommend?

[Rob Miller]

Is this technique satisfactory for green wood? I've discovered that there is something of an issue in doing the 50-50 white glue and water method with green wood in that the glue won't dry if it's placed in a plastic bag and if it's left out so the glue will dry the wood wants to check/crack. You can't really wrap it in paper until the glue is at least dry on the outside but since it's thinned with water this takes a long time. Paradox...