Make a screen door?

[Russ Filtz]

My cheap contractor grade metal sliding screen door is falling apart. I was thinking of making a new one out of wood. Has anyone done this with success? Right now it's just a simple perimeter frame with a full screen. Will a wood one hold up or will it warp over time? Do I need to make this like a panel door for stifness, with separate screens being the panels?

[Frank Pellow]

I made one using cedar 1" x 6" wood (really 1" by 6") 28 years ago for the porch at my summer cabin. It has stood up very well to abuse over the years. I am attaching a picture and you can see from it that the construction is very simple.

You can also see from the picture that the door is in some need of maintenance and I plan to get around to that this summer.

[aurelio alarcon]

I made one using cedar 1" x 6" wood (really 1" by 6") 28 years ago for the porch at my summer cabin. It has stood up very well to abuse over the years. I am attaching a picture and you can see from it that the construction is very simple.

You can also see from the picture that the door is in some need of maintenance and I plan to get around to that this summer.Hey, it's held up pretty good Frank.

[Russ Filtz]

That's what I think I need to do! Yours is a 2-panel door which I figure I need. The current one is only 1-panel! I'll probably do a 4-panel design as I HAVE to make sure there's no warps/bows since it slides on tracks. Would painted maple suffice, or do I need to go treated/cedar?

[Greg Heppeard]

I'd go with White Oak.....its a good exterior wood and should hold up well

[Ray Bersch]

Rus, I made mine of mahogony and used lap joints with polyurethane glue (because of snow accumulation in winter - its a summer house). I don't think you will need four panels, two is strong enough - prevent warping by using the right wood - be sure to prime and paint all exposed wood - so, if you install a wheel in the bottom to ride on a track, paint the wheel recess before installing the wheel.

Ray

PS - In reply to Greg - oak is a very open grained wood and does not paint up as well as mahogony.

[Don Slaughter]

I just built one outta mahogany w/M&T (very deep tenons) and six coats of spar varnish. Looks great and is still holding...no sags. If I can figure out how to post pics here....I will.:)
Don

[Alan Turner]

2 panels is sufficient, and mahogany would be a good choice, as would spanish cedar.

[Russ Filtz]

Thanks all. Ray, I was thinking of lap joints as well. Anyone have tricks or details on how to design the screen hold down? Just a rabbet and cleat?

[Norman Hitt]

Thanks all. Ray, I was thinking of lap joints as well. Anyone have tricks or details on how to design the screen hold down? Just a rabbet and cleat?

Russ, for a nice, tight screen, as you suggested, make a rabbet on the frame and stretch and staple the screen onto the rabbet, then attach the cleat to give it the finished look. (Before Staples, we used to use tacks to attach the screen before adding the cleat...staples are much easier :D ).

[Ray Bersch]

Russ,
To install the screen I make a 1/2" rabbet on the inside edges and then run a 1/8" wide by 3/16" (approx) deep grove in the rabbet with a thin kerf blade. The groove can be centered in the rabbet or almost flush with the inside edge of the rabbet (wish I coud draw this for you - but I can't.) Then I use a vinyl spline and splinnig tool - the kind meant for aluminum screens that be purchased at your local borg - cut the screen about 2" or so larger than the opening, lay it on the door and press the spline and screen into the grove. Then, place the splining tool on the spline and roll the spline into place. Cut off the excess screen with a sharp razor knife. This works magically. The screen tightens up perfectly and there are no uneven pulls near staples. You can find spline material in various diameters so buy it first then make the grove to fit the spline. Of course, a screen stop of your choice fits into the rabbet for a nice finish.

I have used this method on two screen doors and on several large stationary screens on the porch of my home in Maine and I am very please with the results.

To make the lap joints you can use a dado blade, cut them on a band saw or, make a jig and hog them out with a router.

Concerning the choice of wood - be sure to get straight grained stuff - not "as straight as I could get it" that's not straight enough - get straight grained wood - you will be happy with the results that won't bend or bow in the future.

Ray

[Dave Brandt]

Have you checked out the "hidden screen" doors? They're pretty cool, no frame, just unroll from a very unobstrusive housing attached to the outside jamb. I saw one in a house on Lake Thurmond and was totally impressed. One brand name is dreamscreens (has a web site).

[Kevin Swindle]

Russ, I made this one a few years ago out of pine and it has held up very well. It is made similar to a frame and panel door with pinned mortise and tenon joints. I used aluminum screen panels that can be replaced with glass panels if needed. The panels are held in place with custom moldings on the front and back.


http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=12790

[Lee Schierer]

I made one a few years ago to fit in side an outward swinging door that goes to our Deck so we could get more ventilation into the family room. The frame is 1 X 2 pine right off the rack ad HD. The frame is lap jointed at the corners and cross pieces. I routed a groove on the outside around the opeingins so I could use the splined cord to hold the screen in place. I used polyurethane for a finish, Two coats and once it was dry I installed the fiberglass screen. It made the door very stiff. So far it has held up well though it does not see any weather.

[Steve Inniss]

Russ,

This one, I made 4 years ago out of antique red pine(resawn from an old beam I scavenged from a landfill site) and ironwood square pins. I chose not to include a lower screen due to dog claws. It is completely coated with a few coats of spar varnish. Although it is under cover somewhat, the conditions are harsh as it is on the lake side of the house and there is snow against it for about 4 months.

Steve

Oh, and ...what Ray said about the screens - absolutely.

[Philip Berman]

I made this screen door a couple of years ago. Used 4/4 pine, made the screen frames removable for painting/re-screening, and used 1/8" groove and spline material to hold the screens in place. Finished with primer and 2 coats of latex trim paint, it's held up well despite very heavy use.