Partial Inset Cabinet Door Build

[Kevin Godshall]

A contractor asked me to build some replacement base cabinets for a job he's working on. He wants partial overlay, partial inset doors, that he wants to install with hardware he wants to purchase. It looks to me like 3/8" overlay with a 3/8" inset is pretty much typical and pretty much all that is readily available, so that is what I'm going to use for my "guide".

I understand the overlay part, been there, done that, many times. But on the inset, what dimensions should I use so that there isn't binding side to side or top to bottom? If I go 3/8" overlay and 3/8" inset "tight", the inset will touch on all of the sides of the face frame. If I make the inset cut deeper, do I throw the hinge attachment and thus the rest of the door out of whack?

Usually on a build like this, I will buy the hardware and do some "trial and error", but I'm not getting the option on this one. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[J.R. Rutter]

You could bevel the edge of the inset to provide clearance or just allow extra space by making the door slightly undersized and let the overlay be smaller on the no-hinge side.

[Jamie Buxton]

You can't build the cabinet without the hinges. Don't give the contractor any option. He has to specify the hinge before you build the cabinet.

[Kevin Godshall]

Yeah, I think you're right. I was thinking along the lines of what J.R. posted above, but if something isn't right, I'm going to be stuck with re-making the doors or having to alter them.

I was concerned about not getting the project, so I let the hinge thing slide, but now I'm kind of in a quandary. Will get ahold of contractor and have him send me some hinges.

Thanks guys.