Saw Blade Question

[Rick Hubbard]

Lately I’ve been ripping a LOT of 2 inch oak planks. The last couple of days I noticed the cuts were getting more and more rough, so I pulled the blade to inspect. Out of 30 teeth on the blade, 13 are either broken or missing!!! I think it’s time for a new blade.:o

The current blade is a Freud, but the lettering on it isn’t legible so I don’t know the exact model blade it is. I was looking on-line and I see that Freud has two 30T “Glue Line” rip blades. One is a model LM75R010 and the other is a LM74R010. I think the difference is that one is a thin-kerf version of the other. Any ideas?

Thanks!

[bill tindall]

I think you need to be looking at the oak. I have ripped thousands of feet of oak and other hardwoods and never chipped a tooth. Conceivably you have a defective blade; more likely contaminated lumber. Depending on your goals a rip bade with few teeth would be the preferred blade for breaking down 8/4 lumber. If you own a jointer of hand plane a "glue line rip" is not the weapon of choice.

[John Lanciani]

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51EWA2NM3BL._SX355_.jpg

If you're ripping "lots" of 8/4 hardwood you'd do good to look at a blade like this (Freud LM71). Freud's 30T TCG ripping blades do not like thick wood at all, they even specify 1" or less thickness for optimum results.

[Paul McGaha]

I keep a Freud Glue Line Rip blade in my table saw pretty much all the time. As John Lanciani stated it's supposed to be used for stock 1" or less.

For thicker stock I use this blade from Freud:

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2020101/19174/Freud-LM72R010-Ripping-Saw-Blade-10-x-58-Bore-x-24-Tooth-Flat-Top.aspx

PHM

[Peter Quinn]

Glue line blade not for thick wood. My favorite for 2" plus is the amana heavy euro rip blades. Cuts like butter. I wouldn't go thin kerf unless the saw requires it do to lack of power.

[Rick Hubbard]

Well, now that I look more closely at the worn blade I see that it is a 24 tooth Freud 22715. I do know it worked just fine before it became trashed. I guess that is what I'll replace it with

[scott spencer]

Just grabbing at straws here, but any chance it was really gunked up? A gummed up blade can add a lot of extra heat to the equation....combine that with the heat already caused from cutting 8/4" oak, and it could be that the carbide got overheated and damaged.

[Tom Walz]

284641
Sometimes it is a bad blade. (Rarely but it does happen)

I do a lot of failure analysis on carbide tools. Above is a picture of a saw tip on a highly respected name brand saw blade. This picture is several years old.

I used to see a couple blades with lost and / or broken teeth every month. Now I get maybe 2 or 3 a year.