Nova 1624 tailstock all gummed up

[john davey]

Has anyone had any issues with the tailstock on their 1624? I bought this lathe last year during the woodcraft sale and then had to let it sit in the box for a while while I redid my basement. I now have her up and running again but the tailstock is really gummed up. The manual mentions removing a set screw but I am darned if I can get to it :(.... Bad eyes and lighting most of the problem there. Broke my last light bulb looking for this. So once I get more bulbs is it as simple as puling the handle and cleaning the gunk out and re greasing/oiling? And if so what did you use for lube? Thanks, John...

[Scott Hackler]

My 1624 tailstock would "gum" up once in a while and for me, it was just dirty threads. I will turn the handle until the shaft comes out completely, blow out the tailstock hole with the air compressor and the threads on shaft as well. Then I wipe things down with some acetone. A liberal spraying of WD40 and put it all back together. Keep in mind that the "clamp" has a curved piece inside the hole and sometimes you will have to put your finger inside and align it before reassembly. I am not for sure about a "set screw".

[Dave Paine]

I have the NOVA DVR XP which likely has the same design of tailstock. As Scott mentioned, removing the tailstock ram is as easy as screwing it all the way through the wheel. The ram will then be free and you can clear the ram and inside the tailstock. Scott warned about the clamp post has a curve, so this takes a bit of fiddling to get it in place.

I am not aware of a set screw. The slot just in front of the hand wheel contains a "C" shaped piece of steel. This is what engages with the threads in the ram and moves the head stock forward and back. This may be the part most gummed up.

Once the ram is removed, you can use a small screw driver to push the "C" piece out of the slot, then clean it up. The manual talks about lubricating this part in the slot often. I lubricate, but then cover the slot with a piece of masking tape so debris does not get inside. This also keeps the lubrication from drying out as fast.

Good luck. You may want to use a dry lubrication to avoid future gumming up.

[Michael Mills]

Look at the outside of the tailstock handwheel and you will see a small hole, this allows access to the setscrew.
You will need a flashlight to see the screw but I believe it is about 11:00. Loosen the setscrew and you can remove the keeper plate (the C shaped piece of steel) with the end of a small screwdriver. The keeper plate will come out through the slot in the top. Disassemble and lube as you wish but I use aerosol graphite because when it drys there is nothing to collect dust. Do not lube the outside of the quill or it may be hard to lock down, just clean and dry. Reinstall the parts and tighten the keeper plate with the setscrew again (if not it will want to ride up out of the slot as you turn the wheel). I do add about two drops of thin oil every few months (gun oil, WD40, fishing rod oil, anything with a long snout to add just a couple of drops). I do keep a piece of duct tape over the slot to keep out dust.

Note, the keeper plate should just drop into place, if not turn the handwheel slightly to align it with a groove.

[Harry Robinette]

I have been using PG2000 instead of WD40 it lubes cleans and protects and leaves no residue so now build up. Works great on lathe ways make everything slide good but will still lock down and no sliding.