Euro Cabinet Screws?

[Robert Parent]

I am in the process of building some Euro style kitchen cabinets and would like to know what type of screw would be best for assembly. The main cabinet will be 3/4 inch, Maple plywood (no MDF or chipboard). There are hundreds of different screw types so how does one know which one is best?

Typically I use sheetrock or construction screws for most things, but figure there must be something better for cabinets.

Thanks,
Robert

[Peter Quinn]

Deerwood ultimates, #8 X 1 5/8" square drive, great for almost all assembly purposes. Very cost effective as premium assembly screws go.


http://www.wwhardware.com/ultimate-square-drive-flat-head-screws-8-scus8

[Peter Kelly]

#8 x 2" Spax (http://www.spax.us/en/multi-material-construction-screws/unidrive-flat-head.html) screws are good. Available at most HD locations. Confirmats are nice too but you'll need the special drill bit and countersink.

[Bruce Wrenn]

I use assembly screws from Wurth. A box of a thousand lasts me a LONG time. Looking at setting up my pin hole guide to do dowels.

[Loren Woirhaye]

I've used a lot of the gold-colored drywall type screws (they aren't really drywall but they are similar, and seem less brittle). In some materials the bugle head will sink flush without countersinking. That said, I prefer square drive screws but they are not as easily acquired. Before I got a boring machine for confirmat hole drilling I would use biscuits for alignment and screws in between in plywood. Overkill, probably. Crown staples are faster and tongue and groove is the way some old school guys would whip them out, assuming they were going to use a face frame or solid wood banding applied after the case was assembled. If you want to edgeband first (essential unless you want to hand fit solid wood mitered edging and nail it), the biscuits let you slide the parts back and forth a bit to bring the front edges flush at each corner. Then you might pop a nail in to hold the alignment before you go at it with the screws. Bar clamps are okay too, but awkward. I use a right angle vacuum clamp sometimes and I can bang one part with a mallet and move it a hair. I also have these JET corner clamps which are kind of cheesy but they do work.

[Matt Day]

Funny how this thread just popped up. I had the same question and after a lot of research I went with the Deerwood Ultimates from wwhardware. I got a few different lengths for different applications (all #8) since the price was right.
Deerwood doesn't seem to be the only maker of screws like this, but the main features were auger bit (though I will drill pilot holes so plys don't blowout), nibs for countersinking, and deep threads.
Looking forward to having some nice screws around!

[Mark Andrew]

I buy these when I visit the UK on business:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/goldscrew-trade-pack-zinc-yellow-passivated-1400-pieces/69034

These are standard screws across Europe. Like the US, there are thousands of types, but these are the common ones.

[Robert Parent]

Thanks everyone for all your suggestions...

I am going to order some of the Ultimate screws in various sizes and check for Spax at the big box.... Those gold construction screws must be similar to what I currently use and have also noticed them to be a little softer than the black sheetrock screws.

Thanks,
Robert

[Phil Thien]

Personally I'd use pocked holes and use the Kreg screws. Should be stronger than a screw into the edge of the plywood, won't show (screws from top and bottom into the sides will be blind), fast.

[Jeff Duncan]

Well the "best" for European style cabinets are dowel screws, most common here being confirmats. Trouble is they are more difficult for small shops to use as they require precise drilling on both pieces.

good luck,
JeffD

[Erik Christensen]

I typically assemble my frame-less cases with nothing but glue & domino's - where screws are required I try to use a pocket hole to get the better holding power of cross grain - where regular screws are needed I typically reach for the Spax versions.

[Larry Frank]

I agree with the Kreg pocket screws. I built 15 feet of upper and lower cabinets from 3/4" plywood and used Kreg Pocket Screws. If I need to use assembly type screws, I like to use those with the #17 auger point screws that you do not need pre-drill holes.