CL Unisaw for Sale

[Drew Pavlak]

There is a Unisaw 1959 model on CL for $550 near me, here is the post. I should make it know that I have not "restored" a machine before, but I have rebuilt several engines. I am not worried too much about the Mechanical side, I am pretty sure I can handle that.

southbend.craigslist.org/tls/4341729743.html

I am thinking of going and looking at it, only about an hour away. Emailed the gentleman and he is going to try to get me some pics tonight of the internals. I do have a couple of questions though.

Is this right or left tilting? - It looks backwards from the other saws that I have seen recently. Are there advantages/disadvantages to right? I am pretty sure the Craftsman I have is Left Tilting, but it has been over 8 months since i have used it (been building a barn, so table saw hasn't been used in a while.)

Parts? Am I going to regret this if I need parts? I could spend more on a newer machine, I have the budget, but is this a better machine?

Aftermarket Fence? Not too crazy about the fence he has shown with it, I will probably buy something else. But what? Will newer fences fit this? Just a matter of drilling and taping or Making brackets to fit?

General advice - Anything else you can offer, reading a lot of other posts and I will be looking at the flatness of the top, inspecting for cracks in the trunnions and other internal parts, missing gear teeth.......what am I missing.....:rolleyes:

Thanks guys, I always seem to get good answers here and appreciate the help.

Drew

[Mike McCann]

the blade will tilt to the right

[Myk Rian]

Parts show up on OWWM from time to time.
Yep, right tilt. Something some people aren't comfortable with.
I'm thinking it's $100 - $150 too high in price.
It may just be 1 1/2hp, but those bullet motors have torque up the wazoo.

[Erik Manchester]

Drew,

Looks just like the one I had, though mine had a newer 3 HP motor. That one would restore nicely but older Unisaws don`t have a dust collection port which may be a concern for you. Bearings and belts are cheap and there are many parts available online if reqr. You really need to see the top off to check that the trunnions are undamaged.

There are plastic goose-egg covers that you can apply to the saw should you wish. Painted grey they look like the original one.

There are many after-market fence options to fit the Unisaw, so no worry there.

[Thomas Hotchkin]

Drew
There is this one LH tilt 3 HP 50" fence for $400 more. Missing egg is $100 plus 50 " fence is $350 plus. Tom southbend.craigslist.org/tls/4353300615.html

[Drew Pavlak]

Thanks guys, appreciate it. I know ultimately I have to make the decision, to buy or not to buy, that is the questions. :D Right tilt I am not sure I would like. Is the reason most are "uncomfortable" with it because it can trap the material between the blade and the fence? That is the only thing I can think of. I am pretty sure my Craftsman is Left Tilt now that I think on it some more.

Thomas - Thanks, I sent him an email for more information.

Trying to decide between new or used is hard sometimes. Everyone says the Unisaws and PM 66's as nearly indestructible. I like that, but at a $1000, I am only a few hundred away from a newer saw that I don't have to recondition. I got time, so it is no big deal, haven't moved into the barn as of yet, so no worries.

[Michael Mayo]

I have bought a boatload of used machines and refurbished them. It is a great way to save a ton of money but if I had the money I would buy something new/newer that I didn't have to spend a ton of time on refurbing. That is really the only reason I see for buying an older tool and refurbing it. If you can afford to which you stated you could you should just buy a new/newer saw that doesn't need work and get right into making stuff.

[Bob Coleman]

I know the fence doesn't look like all that great shakes, but the one shown is the original. I grew up using one, and am now using a Biesemeyer. I actually like the delta original a little better, though YMMV. You ought to be able to resell the original if you do decide to get the saw and replace the fence.

Only thing I would change on my dad's '53 Delta versus my sawstop is the delta's table is a bit small.

[John TenEyck]

That saw looks to be in great shape, and the bullet motors have amazing torque for their rated HP. Very smooth running, too. If the guts of the saw are in good shape, nothing broken, no rust, it's worth that much IMO. I have a 1954 right tilt, and I like the right tilt. It's a nice compliment to my left tilt C-man saw. I use the fence on the left side or, for wider stock, I use a sacrificial fence on the right side, with the blade buried in it. I used the stock Delta fence for a year or two, then upgraded to a Vega Pro fence, and really like it now. If you have rebuilt engines you will have no trouble doing whatever is necessary to get that saw up to snuff. IMHO, even if you invest $1000 in that Uni you will have a far better machine than any new saw in that price range. Parts are easy to get, but you are unlikely to need anything beyond bearings and belts - ever. The motor bearings might need to be replaced too, but that's easily done by a motor shop.

Don't wait too long thinking about it or someone else will decide for you.

John

[Ed Aumiller]

Before retirement, bought a lot of major imported tools, planer, shaper, jointer, 6x48 sanders, etc...
They are almost completely replaced with used AMERICAN made tools... no comparison...
You will not go wrong on that saw as your grandkids will still be using it if you take care of it...

I prefer left tilt, but one of the best woodworkers I know prefers right tilt (and he has that saw)...

[Earl McLain]

I think that the right tilt at $550 is offered by a guy who posts here on SMC some--Jeff Eichelberger. If i'm wrong on that, my apologies. There's also a Powermatic 65 at $350, but it's 3 phase, southbend.craigslist.org/tls/4334407907. If we weren't facing 2 years of property tax this year, i'd consider the PM or the Uni.

earl

[ken gibbs]

Used Unisaws? I was lucky to find a local guy who buys and works on Unisaws. If the saw is operational, take the blade off and use the nickle test. Just sit a nickle on edge on the saw table and let the saw run for a few minutes. If the nickle stays upright for a minute or so, the bearings in the saw should be in good shape. Worn bearing from long use should make the coin vibrate excessively and fall over. That is probably the reason the saw is for sale.

[Mike Goetzke]

Drew I recently did my first restore. OWWM is you friend (PM me I can give you a link to my restoration thread there). I was just going to clean it up and get it running but got convinced to tear it all apart. I replace bearings on the arbor and motor. Rebuilt the motor - turned the commutator on my wood lathe, replaced brushes, and "necklace"(start circuit spring). I had a blast restoring this old saw. I put about $200 in missing parts parts, bearings, paint, etc...into it (BTW - a cast motor cover goes for $200+, I'm still looking). I can't see a pic of the CL saw hopefully you got it but mine has the old fence and at first I was thinking of replacing it but it's all in technique - I'm pretty good with it now. Good Luck.

Mike

[Drew Pavlak]

I think I have talked myself out of this. If it were LH tilt I would probably go get it, but being RH tilt, I think I will end up not liking it. And eventually getting rid of it. I am keeping my eye open for a Powermatic 66 or other Unisaw though. I have time so I will wait.

Thanks everyone for the advice, it will come in handy in the future. Same seller has a PM 65 3PH for $350 as well, but that looks a lot rougher. Someone had some pics posted on OWWM, under the title Powermatic 65 Questions.

Thanks again.

[Drew Pavlak]

Double posted for some reason. Sorry.

[Charles Lent]

If you put the table and fence on the left side of a right tilt saw you won't trap a piece between the blade and the fence while doing angle cuts. It will look and feel strange for a while, but you will get used to it. I had to use a Unisaw that was set up like this at one place that I worked because it was the way the shop owner liked it, so the rest of us had to live with it that way. We got used to it in a few days but it was a strange setup and I really prefer my table on the right.

My own Unisaw is a right tilt mid 80's Unisaw with the 54" table on the right, but I have a 24" table extension on the left side of the saw and the fence rail extends to the end of it. If I'm worried about trapping the wood I just move the fence to the left of the blade and use the saw that way for cuts that might otherwise get trapped. I do so few of those cuts that it is not a problem for me. In most woodworking there just aren't that many cuts that you will need to worry about this. About 98% of my table saw use is with the blade set at 90 deg, so the direction that it tilts doesn't even matter.

Charley

[Myk Rian]

You'll be happy with the PM.