Latest piece of white birch - what do you think?

[George Overpeck]

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I've been doing a lot like this this winter, I've been finding the end grain natural edge to be more dynamic than face turned NE. It's also a really good way to use smaller logs at a maximum dimension. I have about 8 more feet of this tree to do before it gets so warm that I overshoot on the spalting.

It's about 5 high and 8 or 9 wide. Tung oil finish. Comments and critiques welcome!

[Cody Pierce]

That looks amazing. I'm new to woodworking and know NOTHING about turning... how much time does it take to turn something like this?

[George Overpeck]

This one would be a little different from most of what gets turned because it's natural edge end grain work. Typically if someone was turning a bowl from green wood it would be something like 45 minutes turning, wait for drying, 45 minutes turning a second time, half hour sanding, then some more time finishing.

This is different because it's end grain and fairly thin and has a lot of irregularity, so it's more like 45 minutes turning, wait for drying, then 2 hours sanding. The wings need a delicate touch since they aren't really very strong, and the wood is somewhat degraded so there was some tear out to chase down. Actually you can still see a touch in the third picture.

There was also about a year in getting the wood into the right condition - this was a fairly plain piece of wood when it was felled.

[Michelle Rich]

george, I think you are onto something..very graceful

[Fred Belknap]

Very nice. Do you treat the bottom with something to keep it from cracking? I really like that look.

[Peter Blair]

Wow! I love NE bowls. I am amazed at your ability to get it sooooo thin.
Can't quite tell from the photo. Does it have the pith in the centre of the bottom?
If so I too am wondering if it might crack?

[Steve Doerr]

George, that is really beautiful. You did a GREAT job on this. I really like the irregular shape of the natural edge. Your time estimates are based on your skills, ability and expertise on this type of turning. My guess is that it would take me a lot longer. Thanks for sharing and keep up the good work.
Steve

[Jon Nuckles]

That is absolutely beautiful. Amazingly thin for spalted, irregular, natural edge. Way to go!

[Steve Schlumpf]

Beautiful work George! Excellent example of what an endgrain NE bowl should look like!

[Bob Rotche]

That is really beautiful. I, too, wonder how you keep it from cracking. I've had zero luck on end grain full log rounds. Would love to give it a go again if there is some trick to keeping it intact.

[Mike Peace]

That is absolutely stunning. Makes me want to start looking for a suitable piece of wood and give it a try.

[Marc Himes]

Great piece George! I really like the form and the undulating edge.

[George Overpeck]

The pith is not centered, it's actually swimming about an inch away from the foot. Not too worried about cracking unless it gets dropped at this point.

[George Overpeck]

Bob and Pete - not all of these are working for me but enough do to keep at it. I've noticed that if the foot is fairly thin then the pith can be included in it, if it is on the edge of the foot then there is going to be a crack since it will have different tensions on either side of it. Either way it's going to migrate a bit - this can make it fairly messy trying to sand while turning and I'm sanding about 80% with the lathe off. So, that backs the program up to more tool sharpening to get as good a surface off the steel as possible, and more focus on minimizing tearout and ridging since you're going to pay in sanding time.

These bowls will dry in a few days single bagged since the end grain wants to shoot the moisture out quickly, but I try to slow dry them since it seems to help a bit. Also, if you look at which way they warp it's to the outside of the bowl - I started throwing in shavings in contact with the bottom side of the bowl but leaving the concave section open in the bags. Also, I'm double bagging. Also, I'm spraying the whole piece down before it goes in the bag to equalize everything. Actually, I'm spraying it while I'm working as well. Also, the pith often gets a tiny drop of CA although I think that this is the least important factor.

The most important factor might be even thickness.

Also, I worked some of this wood end grain when it was fresh and had a lot more cracks, so I suspect a little spalting softens the wood and reduces cracks.

[Peter Fabricius]

Wow George that is a wonderful piece. Nice that you are able to keep the checking in check!...
I wonder if it would help to apply sanding sealer as the turning progresses? I have used this on spindle orientation vases in the past and no checking. Particularly if you are going to take more than one day to do the turning.
well done!
Peter F.

[Sandra Mart]

Hi george.. That is absolutely beautiful...Excellent job..http://watchfree.me/11/w.png

[Thomas Canfield]

Very nice. You did not give the thickness, but it does look thin, enough that there is some translucence with the oil finish. What thickness did you turn to and what is final sanded thickness? I would guess that the wood was soft and sanding in/out reduced the thickness quite a bit.

[robert baccus]

Super bowl and very unique. I find keeping the piece wet during turning and wetsanding immediately really helps.

[Scott Hackler]

George, that is a great looking bowl.

[George Overpeck]

I didn't get a set of calipers on it but I would guess it is between 1/8 and 3/16, it is a little wider at some parts of the rim. I did take off a fair amount while sanding the rim, although the interior was not as bad.

[Richard Jones]

Stunning......great piece. Thanks for sharing.

[Ken Glass]

George,
What a great looking piece. I especially like the finish you choose. Well Done.....

[Jim Daughtridge]

George, the end results show a great display of talent and skill.

I assume when you are talking about ''getting the wood in the right condition'' you are talking about controlled ground contact to help produce the spalting?

[George Overpeck]

I assume when you are talking about ''getting the wood in the right condition'' you are talking about controlled ground contact to help produce the spalting?

You got it, I happened on a state clearing project up the road just as it was starting and was able to come out with some 3-4 ft. sections of the trees. I stored them vertically in a natural sump with a tarp over them until things froze up. They didn't ever really have any dry time. I had some splitting about 2-3 inches into the upper ends but they were mostly good the rest of the way through. I try to store them vertically to keep the spalting uniform the whole way across, it gives more options at turning time whether it will be face turned or end grain.