Why use a folding ruler?

[Frederick Skelly]

Hi guys.
I saw John Schweikert's thread about finding a nice folding ruler. I didnt want to hijack it, so I'll ask here: what are the advantages of using a folding ruler, compared to a 3' steel ruler or a good tape measure? Not trying to be cute - I honestly dont know. I always **assumed** that theyd be less accurate than other measuring tools because of the multiple joints, each adding a little potential inaccuracy. I dont know.

Thanks,
Fred

[Myk Rian]

I have 2 or 3 of them, someplace. That tells you how much I use them.
Tape measure for me.

[Peter Kelly]

It's great to have both but I find that the sliding hook part of the tape can get bent or loosen over time throwing off my accuracy. Never a problem with the folding rule. A millwright once showed me how to use a folding rule to duplicate angles years ago. Pretty useful.

[Keith Mathewson]

I have carried one everyday in the leg pocket of my Carhart jeans, that's what that pocket if for. A lot of furniture size pieces are 3' or less, one side is a tape and the other a sector.

[johnny means]

I like mine for inside measurements. It has a little slide out extension for this purpose.

[Rich Riddle]

Two hours ago I used a folding ruler. They offer more precise measurements than a tape measure. But to each his own. I prefer the "inside reading rule" and use the following one:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002N7QS/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not sure I would feel the same with an outside reading rule.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

There are a bunch of different types, here are a few of mine, wonder which are everyones favorites? I honestly only use the two long middle ones regularly, I know, they are not folders, but I'm guessing the folders get used the same stuff I use my yard sticks for. The rest never get used.

Each of these is a little different, pretty cool to see the variations. SAE, Metric, different graduations, calipers, extensions, metal, wood, wannabe ivory (aka plastic), etc. My girls love them, and they are worth keeping them around just to attract the helpers.


https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-KWw28huhiw4/UxfeNBhSgOI/AAAAAAAAD70/HfARdm9SzaM/w311-h553-no/20140305_193007.jpg

[keith micinski]

It's great to have both but I find that the sliding hook part of the tape can get bent or loosen over time throwing off my accuracy. Never a problem with the folding rule. A millwright once showed me how to use a folding rule to duplicate angles years ago. Pretty useful.

Those giant, painted on wood graduations can't be very accurate. I just assumed the only time people used a folding ruler was for general carpentry where a 16th is accurate enough. And for an inside dimension, especially replacement windows. They are great for that.

[Don Huffer]

Those giant, painted on wood graduations can't be very accurate. I just assumed the only time people used a folding ruler was for general carpentry where a 16th is accurate enough. And for an inside dimension, especially replacement windows. They are great for that.

The graduations are also indented so they don't ware off. The joints are spot on too.

If I want anything more accurate than a 1/16" I don't use any rule. I mark the wood and cut.

[Howard Rosenberg]

I always figured the sliding brass foot was for inside measurements like pinch sticks because those joints look like they'd compromise accuracy.

So they were to be used for relative accuracy, not absolute accuracy, like checking a box on the diagonals to check for squareness or two cabinets that should be identical.

Howard

[Steve Rozmiarek]

They aren't all marked like that Keith. The cheap ones are, but these are examples of some that aren't. Just the average Starrett in 1/64's I'm comparing them too. The wood Lufkin is sharp, I was just shaking the camera apparently. I like the last Lufkin's markings the best.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-UpzLeT295sE/UxfxWbrwHjI/AAAAAAAAD88/DL8J22Xr-to/w311-h553-no/20140305_205324.jpg https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-WI2uvLieCe8/UxfxIzwoQLI/AAAAAAAAD8w/bzt5hj_-X9A/w311-h553-no/20140305_205235.jpg https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-PxmiywIooik/UxfxCE4PvwI/AAAAAAAAD8k/xrRCutXQ3ww/w311-h553-no/20140305_205207.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-KBhyTb4c5WE/Uxfw1SZ4EdI/AAAAAAAAD8M/voEz93zNxSg/w311-h553-no/20140305_205108.jpg

[Brian W Smith]

They still work very nicely in sheet metal world,and are pretty much non-replaceable in masonry.To the point that theres a cpl different styles of "brick rules".You have to "qualify" which scale or type you're using when discussing these things with your bricklayer.The sheet metal version has the numbers on the other side,meaning you can have it 1/2 open....flat on panel....the stack of un-opened sections are,"up".Useful for flatwork in WW shop as well where you're doing any XY triangulation......tapes just don't work as well out in the middle of flatwork.

I grew up in the biz so having one stuck in your side pocket(like posted above)....along with a "try square" stuck in a back pocket was indelibly etched & hardwired into my brain and fingers.It's a learned skill to open one properly,"on the fly"..haha.Lufkin X46...theres also an X46X.

[Matt Day]

I've known a number of old school tradesmen who can't function without them. Tin knockers, plumbers, and masons as Brian pointed out. I don't totally get it but the one thing I did see was How handy they were for vertical measurements (like measuring ceiling height) since they don't buckle like a tape measure.

[glenn bradley]

It's great to have both but I find that the sliding hook part of the tape can get bent or loosen over time throwing off my accuracy. Never a problem with the folding rule. A millwright once showed me how to use a folding rule to duplicate angles years ago. Pretty useful.

I can bend my own hook but, http://lixertools.com/

The hook is supposed to slide to compensate for inside and outside measurements. The accuracy varies with original quality and handling during use. Even though I went through no small amount of trouble to make sure my tapes and rules mtch, I use tapes only for rough measurements (down around 1/16"). The old wives tale of using the same tape for the whole project does not assure accuracy if the irregularities vary over distance as is often the case. Your acceptable degree of 'convenience' versus 'accuracy required' will depend (as in most things for me) on what you are doing and how. ;-)

[Mark Andrew]

Germans use them pretty much exclusively in preference to tape measures.

[Paul Incognito]

one thing I did see was How handy they were for vertical measurements (like measuring ceiling height) since they don't buckle like a tape measure.
I use a folding stick rule in combination with a 4' level to measure things that are too big for the 6' capacity of the stick rule. Good for 10' and no worries about the tape buckling.
Paul

[Von Bickley]

I use both. I use my folding ruler for shop work and a tape measure for rough work or framing.

I like the slide out extension on my folding ruler for inside measurements and checking the depth of a dado.

[Tom Walz]

I have love them since my grandpa showed me how to use on sixty years ago.

[Rod Sheridan]

I've never owned one, I use steel rulers or a tape measure.

Sometimes I just tranfer measurements using a sliding gauge or marking gauge..........Rod.

[Mel Fulks]

Yeah,Rod. I don't understand the appeal of folding rules. Made a catastrafic mistake in my youth by failing to unfold a couple sections. That makes stuff too short. To this day if only a folding rule is handy, I study it for a minute to make sure it is not camouflaging a folded a section or two.

[Lonnie Gallaher]

This is my go to folder. Starrett #471. http://www.amazon.com/Starrett-471-Circumference-Measurement-Thickness/dp/B0000DD1UR/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1394139951&sr=1-2&keywords=starrett+folding+rule

When I bought mine in the late 70s I think I paid 35 dollars for it (about a days pay for me at the time). At the time I was working in a steel mill in the blacksmith shop and later as a boilermaker and plate layout man. They are very handy for that type of work, but I still carry it in my back pocket for wood work. I do have a 6 foot folding Lufkin with an extension that I use for remodel work.

[Peter Kelly]

I can bend my own hook but, http://lixertools.com/Cool but pricey at $46 for the cheapest one. I picked up one of those BMI folding rules at Best Made last night and it was about the same price ($48 including tax). No calibration necessary.

[ray hampton]

If you travel light [horseback or on foot ] then a folding rule MAKE SENSE

[Steve Collins]

I just received a new Lufkin wood folder yesterday from Amazon that will replace the 25 year old Lufkin. The first thing I do when I enter my shop is to put my pencil behind my ear, and my folding rule in my back pocket.

[Frederick Skelly]

Ok. So Im getting the sense that this is more a matter of personal preference than a clear cut "its better for these specific reasons" thing. Which is perfectly fine. I have a number of tools like that. Thanks guys!
Fred

[Keith Weber]

I can bend my own hook but, http://lixertools.com/

I'm more a tape measure/steel rule type of guy, but I guess I could see where they'd be handy for inside measurements.

Those Lixer tools are cool -- I want one! They'd be great for synchronizing all the tape measures that I have lying around. I think that the steel ones would be much more accurate than the wooden ones, but holy sticker shock -- $290!!?? I think that I've got a new project for my milling machine. I wouldn't have to match all the fancy angles on it. For the purposes of a tape measure checker, all I'd need is a $15 piece of stainless bar stock and 3 passes with a 3/16" or so end mill. Done.

[sullivan mcgriff]

I second the Germans love of them watched a guy building a shed and another house over six weeks, every tradesman used one

[Jim Finn]

They still work very nicely in sheet metal world,....."

I worked in construction sheet metal work in Wisconsin and all the guys used folding rules. When I asked why not a tape measure, they told me folding rules are a bit slower to use. (A good thing for them I guess) I moved to California and the sheet metal workers there never used folding rules. Put mine away and never looked back.

[Curt Stivison]

When I worked as an electrician for 30 yrs. we all used folding rules because they don't conduct electricity. Alot safer than than a tape measure.
Curt

[keith micinski]

This is not true. While wood does not conduct electricity very well, it most certainly will. I am probably being way to overly cautious by the way.

[ray hampton]

When I worked as an electrician for 30 yrs. we all used folding rules because they don't conduct electricity. Alot safer than than a tape measure.
Curt

wood WILL conduct electricity , the higher that the humidity is the more electricity the wood will conduct, if you doubt this then hang your wooden handle hammer on a electric fence and turn the fence on, you can test a electric fence by touching the wire with a wooden pole/ dowel , the shock not too -bad if you keep the wood dry, the linemen use a fiberglass pole instead of wood for this reason

[Kevin Womer]

I use mine to measure inside dimensions to check drawers and the like when I check for squareness, but prefer a tape measure for most other tasks.

[Bud Ackerman]

A quick anecdote and advice.....

When I was little I used to play with my dads, uncles and grandfathers rules... I broke a couple of them and retribution was swift...:)

When we built our house in my late teens I was introduced to an 8ft Lufkin Rule... It was amazing for framing and large projects....perfect for Plywood etc... most were 6ft....

as I am now in my 50's I still have two of them that I use for outside large projects... they are very valuable but hard to find.

[Andy Pratt]

They are the most accurate way to get a true inside measurement, that sole use accounts for 99% of the time I use mine.

[lowell holmes]

Something else,

When you break a 6 or 8 foot folding carpenters rule, not all is lost. You can get a folding yardstick out of it, and that is the handiest thing.

DAMHIK :)

[Jim Matthews]

I use mine all the time in my shop.

I transfer marks onto it using a pencil.
They're easier for me to get measurements longer than 30" or so, where my tape "collapses" under it's own weight.

For inside measurements, I've taken to using two wooden rulers, back to back with a spring clamp.

I particularly like wooden rules with a brass extension for inside measurements to check a box for square,
across the diagonals. The outside hook measurements are coarse, only.

[Jim Davis]

I get the impression that folding rules and zig-zag rules are being lumped together here. They certainly have different attributes. can't see a true folding rule being 6 feet long or measuring ceiling heights, but maybe my imagination is lacking?

Jim

[Jebediah Eckert]

I figured all you folding ruler people who chimed in may get a kick out of this. It belonged to my grandfather and I used it as a kid. He is 97 now and can't remember where it was from but he thinks his father bought it, but unsure of the year. It is marked EM Chapin No 66. I think it is maybe brass and ivory or some type of bone material. I really can't find much about it on the Internet. Super cool item, I may move it down into the shop and start using it after reading this thread!

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I know this has nothing to do with "why to use it", but if you were to use a folding ruler this one is pretty cool.

[jack forsberg]

i like my Chesterman folding made at Bows works and there claim was that there steel measuring rules were calibrated to 20 deg C and with in .001. Its also may be that that is the same maker that made the inlaid rule in the table of my Wadkin PK pattern makers table saw.

http://www.gracesguide.co.uk/File:Im1899POLon-Chester.jpg



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so i use both wood and steel but i don't have to go get one for the PK Table saw:cool:

http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad111/tool613/IMG_0556_1.jpg (http://s927.photobucket.com/user/tool613/media/IMG_0556_1.jpg.html)

[Frederick Skelly]

Jebediah and Jack - nice tools!

Jebediah, you definitely need to bring your Great Grandfather's rule out to the shop and put her to use. What an excellent way to connect with your family's past. And it's such a beautiful tool!

[Jim Davis]

Seems I must have used invisible ink again....:(

[Mike Henderson]

I like mine for inside measurements. It has a little slide out extension for this purpose.
Me too. That's about all I use it for.

Mike

[Bob Carreiro]

Like another has said, pencil in the ear, folding rule in back pocket! Was taught that way in Diman Regional Vocational HS (class of 70). It took many years for me to warm up to the measuring tape, but that's progress, I suppose. Why use one, well for one, it's ridged and stays where you put it - helpful for registering. Also excells at alignment, since a pencil mark and the fraction markings "touch" when laying the ruler on them. Then there's the depth (guage) stick, if so equipped. Aaaah, those were the days!

I've got a couple in my tape drawer, but they rarely see the light of the shop anymore. 😔

[Steve Peterson]

I found a couple of them at Lowes a few months ago marked down to $1. They were too cool to pass up, so I bought 2 of them for my kids to play with. The backs were marked for bricklaying with about 20 different brick spacings.

Steve

[Dennis Aspö]

I have a small plastic one, it's not very high quality but it comes in handy surprisingly often, and I tend to use it as a miniature square since it can lock in 90 degree positions, though again, not very exact.

[ian maybury]

Definitely the common usage in Germany.

We still get them here, and they used to be more or less the standard woodworker's tool up until maybe the 1970s - but were displaced by the gee whiz of tape measures.

The biggest problem in buying one is that what's locally available is cheaply made, tacky and not accurate. Good ones are a thing of beauty in their own right.

I find them very useful for measurements where their self supporting nature is really helpful. I don't much trust tape measures anyway, and also have several Shinwa rules with stops which are certified, beautifully clear and very useful too: http://www.fine-tools.com/shinwa-ruler.html

[David Linnabary]

I use em a lot, have 4 or 5 laying around the shop, always throw one in my go bag. I like to leave one unfolded in the tool tray on my work bench. I'd say if you ever got used to using a story stick then a folding rule has a similar feel. I always liked the Lufkin X-46 and especially if I can find the ones with the flip hook on the end. When I'm working off a ladder, I'll often unfold the ruler as needed then just hang it on my back pocket instead of laying it down and it's very steady compared to a tape for overhead work. Don't get me wrong, the tape is there too but sometimes the stick rule is just easier in some situations.

The biggest reason I use them is because my dad used them all the time and it makes me think of him. I remember him buying is first really decent spring retractable steel tape measure back in the early 70's, he was pretty jazzed but the stick rules always had their place.

David
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[Dennis Aspö]

The best quality folding measures around here are said to tbe the Swedish Hultafors ones, the yellow ABS plastic ones, followed by the ones made from slow growing arctic birch.

[Brian W Smith]

Grew up in the biz,so like others that's just what we used back then?Still carry an X46 in the std side pocket of my Dickies work pants.They're a little slower than tapes if all you're doing is "pulling" measures.Also slower for longish.....10'+...stuff.In a shop environ however,where there's a lot of bench work and machine setup,I'll take a stick rule everytime....WAY less bulky,on the "fly".

[Pat Barry]

I use mine all the time in my shop.

I transfer marks onto it using a pencil.
They're easier for me to get measurements longer than 30" or so, where my tape "collapses" under it's own weight.

For inside measurements, I've taken to using two wooden rulers, back to back with a spring clamp.

I particularly like wooden rules with a brass extension for inside measurements to check a box for square,
across the diagonals. The outside hook measurements are coarse, only.
Jim, you need to invest in a better tape measure. 30 inches is really poor. You must have a flat or kinked tape.

I use my tape measures for nearly everything and I never use those cute little novelty items (folding rules). The tape is far quicker and more accurate and more repeatable for both outside and inside measurements. I have a small one (12 ft, 1/2 inch) that I use for woodworking. I can see the example of the masonry guys liking the folding rule because cement inside your tape measure is an obvious recipe for failure, and because, frankly, its bricklaying - nothing accurate involved with that art. Otherwise, the folding rule is truly antiquated isn't it.

[Dan Hintz]

The old wives tale of using the same tape for the whole project does not assure accuracy if the irregularities vary over distance as is often the case. Your acceptable degree of 'convenience' versus 'accuracy required' will depend (as in most things for me) on what you are doing and how. ;-)

Since this old thread was brought back up, I had to comment on this...

I can't see this as a wive's tale. Like a story stick, it doesn't matter how inaccurate the printed measurements are (or if the ruler has zero markings at all) over any distance. If you measure 'X' distance with a stick, transferring the measurement using the same stick should prove as accurate as your hands can write and your eyes can see. Unless the stick is shrinking/growing due to moisture changes in the environment ;), it should be just as accurate as any other measuring device not based on the atomic clock.

[Robert Delhommer Sr]

Can't be beat for inside measurements.

[Jim Davis]

... Otherwise, the folding rule is truly antiquated isn't it.

Yep. So are hand powered tools, but I like and use them.

[Curt Stivison]

The shock from a wooden rule will not kill you. One from a steel rule will.
Curt

[Mark Blatter]

I just received a new Lufkin wood folder yesterday from Amazon that will replace the 25 year old Lufkin. The first thing I do when I enter my shop is to put my pencil behind my ear, and my folding rule in my back pocket.

And I thought I was the only one that understood what ears are really for. I always try to use my left ear because that one holds the pencil better than the right one....go figure.

[Rick Moyer]

Since this old thread was brought back up, I had to comment on this...

I can't see this as a wive's tale. Like a story stick, it doesn't matter how inaccurate the printed measurements are (or if the ruler has zero markings at all) over any distance. If you measure 'X' distance with a stick, transferring the measurement using the same stick should prove as accurate as your hands can write and your eyes can see. Unless the stick is shrinking/growing due to moisture changes in the environment ;), it should be just as accurate as any other measuring device not based on the atomic clock.
Dan, I think what Glenn is referring to is a tape measure whose marking may be irregular but not consistent. For example the first several inches may have markings slightly closer than actual dimension yet further out the markings may be spaced slightly more than accurate. I have seen some cheap tapes that were not consistent with their dimensioning.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi guys.
I saw John Schweikert's thread about finding a nice folding ruler. I didnt want to hijack it, so I'll ask here: what are the advantages of using a folding ruler, compared to a 3' steel ruler or a good tape measure? Not trying to be cute - I honestly dont know. I always **assumed** that theyd be less accurate than other measuring tools because of the multiple joints, each adding a little potential inaccuracy. I dont know.

Thanks,
Fred

A folding rule makes you look like an old time pro.

In my opinion however, they're best used as a shim under a machine on irregular floors..............Regards, Rod.

[Dan Hintz]

Dan, I think what Glenn is referring to is a tape measure whose marking may be irregular but not consistent. For example the first several inches may have markings slightly closer than actual dimension yet further out the markings may be spaced slightly more than accurate. I have seen some cheap tapes that were not consistent with their dimensioning.

Irregularity is irrelevant, though. So what if the first 3 inches of the ruler are marked as only 1 inch. If your measured object hits the 3/4" mark on the ruler (even if it's at a true 1/2"), transferring that same mark at 3/4" to the object to be cut will be just as accurate as if using a ruler with marks accurate down to the micron. It's only when you use two different measuring devices -- one to measure, and a different one to transfer -- that it becomes an issue, and we should all know by now not to do that.

[John A langley]

Dan my thoughts exactly it's all your doing with Rules transferring distances,