Edgebanding for 3/4 Plywood

[Griph0n Brown]

I've had poor luck with trimming preglued maple thin edgebanding. I'm tearing out when trimming it with the Lee Valley trimming tool. Maybe beacause I'm new at it, maybe because I hate edgebanding. Is 13/16 banding easier to trim than 7/8. Is 13/16 harder to apply with an iron and get lined up? I've got a kitchens worth to do. Maybe I'll try both? Any Sugestions?

[Bill Neely]

You might try this technique, I think it's easier and cleaner than a regular double sided trimmer:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sB-POouy5mk

If you search here on the forum there are some other ways to trim that people like.

[Mark Wooden]

Said it before and will say it again- fastest, most foolproof method is to use a sharp (new),10-12", flat, smooth cut file. The edge teeth cut the banding and the face smooths it clean. And I don't care how many here think I'm nuts either, there have been too many converts when shown, myself included.;)

[Phil Thien]

You might try this technique, I think it's easier and cleaner than a regular double sided trimmer:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sB-POouy5mk

If you search here on the forum there are some other ways to trim that people like.

I've seen this before and one of these days I'm going to give it a shot.

BUT, from the video, it sort of looks like he is using a plastic edging, which I think cuts much more easily that real wood. The problem with real wood edging is that it wants to tear.

I could be wrong, it is possible that the angle and approach of the blade he is using will cut even real wood edging, like I said I'm going to give it a shot next time around.

[David Hawxhurst]

i'm intrigued. is there a video of this method?

[Jeff Duncan]

The maple wood tape always wants to tear as the blade is trying got follow the grain. A couple things I do that help…

I have a spare 3/4" chisel that's sharp BUT…..has just a slight back bevel to it. The back bevel helps keep it from trying to dig into the panel. If it seems like the chisel is grabbing the grain as I'm going I reverse direction and usually that'll make all the difference in the world. Of course with the short pieces all too common you may have to reverse direction several times on a long panel. Once I've cut the edge flush I'll follow with a sanding block and 150 grit sandpaper and just hit the edge on a diagonal to get rid of any sharpness.

FWIW I've tried several trimmers and none are worth anything on maple. They do work ok on some straighter grained woods and plastic banding, but maple is a tough one!

good luck,
JeffD

[Mel Fulks]

Mark, I've seen that done ,too. I had forgotten. Works best with the plasticut brand files often found in shops that do some laminate work.

[Bill Neely]

I've seen this before and one of these days I'm going to give it a shot.

BUT, from the video, it sort of looks like he is using a plastic edging, which I think cuts much more easily that real wood. The problem with real wood edging is that it wants to tear.

I could be wrong, it is possible that the angle and approach of the blade he is using will cut even real wood edging, like I said I'm going to give it a shot next time around.

I've used it with maple edge banding, it works better than a standard trimmer but still not perfect. Hardest part for me was figuring out how to get the backs off the razor blades.

*David, I linked to the Youtube video.

[Mel Fulks]

Just watched the video, that method is no where near as good as a sharp file used in one direction. Sometimes simple is faster and better.

[keith micinski]

I never thought to try this and will definitely do it the next time band. Thanks.

[Max Neu]

If you have alot to do,maybe consider cutting out everything that needs done and see if a local shop will run them on their edgebander.It will do a good job and save you alot of grief.I use my Brandt for almost all of my edgebanding,but occasionaly I will get out the trusty iron if I have a few odd pieces to do. I don't know about the shops in your area,but I wouldn't charge someone that much to run them if I already had the machine warmed up.

[Phil Thien]

Just watched the video, that method is no where near as good as a sharp file used in one direction. Sometimes simple is faster and better.

I think most of us have tried a file, and it is nowhere near as fast as the process demonstrated in the video.

[Ethan Melad]

i recently had to trim a bunch of prefinished white oak banding and started out with my usual chisel method. it did not go well. i switched to my little trim router with a flush cut bearing bit and it worked great. as long as you're careful to keep the router balanced (which isn't hard with those tiny routers) its pretty foolproof.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Do a search, and you will find where some have made their trim routers into edge band trimmers, which don't depend on the bearing to guide bit, but actual jig. Horizontal router table with aux top that allows for edge banding to pass is the fastest I know of. I published in Woodsmith as a tip back in 1994.

[Phil Thien]

The only problem I've had w/ the router method is cleaning the glue off the bit.

[Peter Quinn]

I'm all in with thee plasticut file method. Was just shown that at work recently, for solid wood veneer edging its unbeatable. Try that 100 MPH razor in a stick of wood method on actual wood, or plywood that has a little whoop to it as so much does now, or get a little glue build up on the razor....or hit a little glue bump on the ply. It's not as ideal as the vid would suggest. A lipping planer is a nice way to go but that gets pretty pricey unless you do a lot of edge banding particularly in thick solids.

[Mark Wooden]

I have a lipping planer and still use the file. I don't have a video camera (phone doesn't either- I'm a neanderthal) or I'd trim up a few pieces for all to see. Maybe I call a buddy to document this.