Best bang for the buck router for a table?

[Michael Yadfar]

I plan to build my own router table, and I would use it pretty regularly. I don't need anything too beefy though, because it's only my own little shop for personal projects. But I'm wondering what kind of routers you folks would recommend looking, and if there's any you would recommend staying away from you can say that too. I want something that can fit decently into my low budget, but at the same time not be a piece of junk either. There was a woodworking website I was on that said the Triton 2HP Router is the best deal for a table router, and it sells for around $200 which I can work with.


Also, sort of as a bonus question, I'm also wondering what brand is best for router bits. I've seen the same bit cost between $5-40 from different brands. To me that sounds like the $5 bit is junk and the $40 one is overpriced, so I'm wondering which brands the best for this.

[scott spencer]

Re: router bit brands, here my 2 cents:

“Good” – MLCS, Woodline, Wood River, Porter Cable, Grizzly (green), Stone Mountain, Hickory, and others represent a decent level of quality, often at good prices. They’re often not much more expensive than the run of the mill, lesser known, lower quality bits, and can give good service for beginners who may be tough on bits, low volume, and non-critical applications. Cuts can be very good with these bits, but I wouldn’t expect them to perform as new for as long as more expensive bits. The carbide tends to be a bit softer, is sharpened to a lesser degree, bearings and steel may not be as high quality, and brazing and overall manufacturing techniques will be less robust than those of the top tier bits. Brands like Skil, Ryobi, Harbor Freight, Craftsman, and others could also arguably fit into this category, but my past experiences with other cutters from these brands has not been good…since there are several other well proven alternatives listed, I’d lean toward those. Some of the Craftsman cutters could be made by Freud, so if you spot one made in Italy, it could be a good bet at the right price….same is true of some Milwaukee bits. Good quality basic sets start in the range of $40.

“Better” – Bosch, CMT, Katana, Price Cutter, Rockler, Amana A.G.E, and Lee Valley, amongst others, represent what I consider to be a step up from the average “good” bits listed above, but tend to perform and cost less than the top tier bits s shown below. It’s a good compromise if you want improved performance and longevity from your bits, or wince at the cost of the premium bits, and/or don’t require the very best available. Grizzly (purple) is another possible candidate for this category too, but I have limited experience with them, and other trusted sources have mentioned that the quality can be hit or miss…I’d be uncomfortable paying more than a bargain price for them.

“Best” – Whiteside, Infinity, Eagle America (made by Whiteside), and Freud Quadra –Cut are the best I’ve used to date …better carbide, better steel, better bearings, better manufacturing, better sharpening, better design, etc., means a better cut, less vibration, and longer life (along with higher cost). The more critical the cut, or the more often the bit will be used, the better the justification for choosing top shelf. Many will consider Amana Tool, Somerfeld, and others to be in this category too, but I haven’t been exposed to all of them. My limited experience with Bosch and CMT bits was favorable, but not exceptional….I’d buy them again on sale, but when the price approaches that of Whiteside or Infinity, I opt for the latter. Basic top tier sets start in the range of $100.

Re: the router - I like the topside features of the Triton....

[Art Mann]

I have gotten great service out of the Hitachi M12V 3-1/4 hp plunge router mounted in a table. I believe the replacement for it is the Hitachi M12VE. There is also a model M12V2. These are among the least expensive of the 3-1/4 hp variable speed routers suitable for table use and will probably serve you well if you can get over their hideous appearance.

[Judson Green]

I have gotten great service out of the Hitachi M12V 3-1/4 hp plunge router mounted in a table. I believe the replacement for it is the Hitachi M12VE. There is also a model M12V2. These are among the least expensive of the 3-1/4 hp variable speed routers suitable for table use and will probably serve you well if you can get over their hideous appearance.


2nd that!

Might want to take the spring out of the the plunge arm.

[Michael Yadfar]

The only turnoff about this product is the name Hitachi. It sounds like something you would find over at harbor freight. But with two woodworkers reccomending this product, it sounds reliable to me, definitely worth a look!

[Ed Falk]

My experience with Hitachi is limited, but I was under the impression that it's a pretty decent brand name. As far as power tools go, American brands such as Porter Cable or Milwaukee have been my favorites. I have a Porter Cable router for my router table.

I wouldn't think a plunge base would be of any use in a router table.

[Judson Green]

This adjuster is the key to making it a good router for a table.

283840

[Art Mann]

On the contrary, a plunge base makes it easy to adjust the bit height. Some plunge base routers include provisions for bit height adjustment from above the table. For plunge routers without that feature, there is a retrofit kit available for doing the same thing. It is the fixed base routers that are difficult to adapt to table use.

[james glenn]

I have the Milwaukee 5625 in my router table, and it has been great. Never looses power, offers above the table height adjustment and works great in a lift. It was just on sale at HD, but not sure if it still is.

I would buy again if I needed another.

[Peter Quinn]

I have a pre-orange borg Ryobi plunge router that is very much like the hitachi recommended above. They don't make them anymore, its from an era when ryobi was a creative young industry upstart with great tools at a decent price point. At $200, that hitachi is a deal....lots of bang, not much buck. You could spend a little lless and go for a basic porter cable fixed base or similar in the $120 range, bolt it to a simple table and route away. Then you can also experience the joy of sitting on your knees in the shop reaching under the table trying to adjust one of the worst depth adjustment schemes ever made.....don't get me wrong, the PC routers have great motors and some other nice features, but depth adjustment is crude and fussy, so dialing in a precise set up can be maddening. I have encountered a basic PC router stuffed in a table at every place I've ever worked wood, cheap and effective, especially in a shaper based shop where the router doesn't need to do heavy lifting like panel raising. But they are really best suited to above table work, and frankly set ups that don't require precise adjustments like flush trimming. So take a close look at the hitachi, its a quality brand and a value. My favorite set up is a big PC 7518 in a lift....but thats headed quickly towards $700. Lots of bang....lots of bucks. If you need to spin really big bits, the PC 7518 is unbeatable.

Bits? My favorites are whiteside, infinity, and amana, with freud and cmt coming in just behind. Freud quadra cuts are IME excellent and belong in the top category as well. The differences are subtle, but the best router bits tear out less and leave a bit better surface quality. Might be the carbide, the sharpening, or the shear angles and other geometry. Not sure, but they just work better. I spend on the best when it matters, for solid carbide joinery bits, for cope and stick sets, for complex profiles that would be more difficult to sand. I also have a pile of those green bits from wood craft, they used to blow them out each month, a few different basic profiles, at $5 each. I bought a pile of them, multiples in certain cutters. These work very well, I can't imagine how they sold them so cheaply. Don't know what the price point is now, but they are IMO reasonably good. There are other good brands around, eagle, MLCS come to mind.

A friend gave me a pile of router bits he was given that were basically brand new, came from a Dr who wanted to try wood working but quit the hobby, they were yellow, not sure the brand...cheap chinese junk. I tried a few, wound up throwing them in the scrap bin. Not good, not safe, not acceptable. So there are those sorts of things out there too. Not every $5 router bit is bad, but some are.

[Don Huffer]

Pound for pound the best router in its class is the Porter Cable 690. The main stay of all shops. Every fixture known to wood working was designed around this router. I still use the first one I bought over 25 years ago.

I used the Tr12 in a router table and hated it. Great powerful router. Best suited for swinging big bits. The spring is way too strong and the slide doesn't move so well for fine adjustments. Which is what you need in a table.

Don

[Michael Mahan]

I use a Porter Cable 7518 3 & 1/4 HP multi speed motor only & an Incra router lift
you can get the motor only PC for $254.oo on sale at WoodCraft they post it on sale every 2 months at that price
that fact that I can change bits above the table & adjust bit height with flick of my wrist Priceless
you can add a DRO from Wixley for about $50.oo that makes it a breeze to set up cuts & reduces test cuts to minimum
the fact that I no longer has to bend over to eye ball the bits & not having to get on my knees or bend over to mess with the router under a table setting the height .
saves my back , my knees , my eyes & most importantly saves me time & frustration .

[Rich Engelhardt]

Also, sort of as a bonus question, I'm also wondering what brand is best for router bits. I've seen the same bit cost between $5-40 from different brands. To me that sounds like the $5 bit is junk and the $40 one is overpriced, so I'm wondering which brands the best for this.Whiteside, Freud and/or Eagle America make the best bits.
Break out your wallet though because they cost dearly.

What you get for your extra $$ are things you can't really see.
They are better balanced, which means the run true and vibrate less @ high RPM.
They have thicker and better carbide - which means they hold an edge better and can be resharpened.

For a little less for more utilitarian uses, I like Bosch. They're ok and priced pretty right.
I bought a 2" top bearing bit to make ZCI plates for my table saw.
I made 10 or 12 inserts with it and IIRC, I paid ~ $25 or $35 for the bit - but - "store bought" inserts from Woodcraft are $23 each so I saved some money.

For real work where removing material is primary and appearance is secondary, MLCS, Skil, Ryobi. (things like rabbets and making circular cut outs)


BTW - the Triton seems to be about the best deal going.
People that own them love them.
I went with a Freud 1700 instead of a Triton because @ the time, Triton was in trouble and looked like they were going under.
Now, years later, Triton is still around and healthy & the Freud line of tools is gone - - -go figure!

[Bill Huber]

I am not sure if I could say it is the best router, I have not used them all, but I have had very good luck with it, the Bosch 1617 EVS 2 1/4 hp.

You can get the motor only for around $160 and then add and FX lift from Rockler which go on sale a lot for $180, right now the lifts are selling for $204.

I had a table with above the table adjustment but I still had to go under the table to unlatch it and then re-latch it. This for me was a real pain in the butt.

I then got the FX left and a different table and I loved it, it is so much better then just using the above table adjustment on a fixed base router.

The Bosch router did everything I ask it to do, raised panels and cabinet doors with no problem, I did take smaller cuts with the panel bit but it still did a great job. The only problem I had with the router, and I think they have fixed it was the dust getting into the switch.

I guess what I am saying is save up a little money if you need to and get a lift, they are great.

[Art Mann]

I never engage and release the clamping mechanism on my M12V when I adjust the height. The combination of the plunge mechanism, spring tension, friction, and gravity keep the height adjustment solid without any other clamping. In fact, I seldom reach beneath the table for any reason. I use the Router Raizer add-on to adjust height, which is less than half the cost of even the cheapest router lift and does exactly the same thing, as far as I can tell. The Router Raizer can be used with most of the high power plunge routers.

[Greg Hines, MD]

I use a Porter-Cable 890 plunge base in my router table, and have the fixed base for hand held use if I ever need that, though I have a 690 that I use for most of that. I like the fact that with two extra clearance holes in the base, you can adjust the height of the bit through the table with a little wrench they sell for that purpose. It is a 2 1/4hp router, so not quite the torque of a 3 1/2hp, but for what I do, it has never given me any troubles. For bits, most of mine are from Woodcraft, purchased during their $5 router bit sales several years ago, and for most of them, they have worked well. I also have some Whiteside spiral bits that I use almost exclusively when I need a straight bit, and some of the Freud Quadra-cut profiles for roundovers and ogees.

[Keith Hankins]

Save your money a little while longer and get the PC7518. It's a monster and will handle what ever you throw at it. I've had mine for close to 10 years and not an issue. If you get a lift just buy the motor and save a few $$

[Dave Anthony]

I have the Triton in a router table and like it a lot, much more than the Bosch 1617 w/a Jess-em lift. You need to take out the spring in the Triton when using it in a table, easy height adjustment & bit changes. I like Whiteside router bits. Kinda spendy, but well made & last a long time.

[Peter Quinn]

Pound for pound the best router in its class is the Porter Cable 690. The main stay of all shops. Every fixture known to wood working was designed around this router. I still use the first one I bought over 25 years ago.

I used the Tr12 in a router table and hated it. Great powerful router. Best suited for swinging big bits. The spring is way too strong and the slide doesn't move so well for fine adjustments. Which is what you need in a table.

Don


See how opinions can vary....I'd agree that the PC 690 is the best router in its class....just that its in the lowest class of routers I can think of. The base design is for carpenters, its at least 40 years old, and its crude by todays standards. The motor is great, just keeps spinning. But try to sneak up on a precise fit, need to bump it just .010" and its anything but brand new, perfectly clean and well lubricated...good luck. Up a little, down a little, up a little, down a little......what is that silly ring thing with all the numbers for? It spins but does almost nothing most of the time, you unclamp the motor clamp and the thing drops. If I had only used one, I'd think I used a poor example. But I've used dozens in at least four different shops over several decades, some old beaters, some almost new....and they all work about the same IME. If I'm freehand flush trimming a bunch of stuff, or running a pattern but, or some set it and forget it profile, I'll reach for the 690, but if its a lot of set ups and more complicated/precise, I'm going for a bosch 1617 or similar. Bigger hole in the plate too. I never liked the 1617 in the table much, I tried that set up, seemed to get dust in the bearings and switch and lead to lots of poor performance.

[Kevin Womer]

I have the Triton in a router table and like it a lot, much more than the Bosch 1617 w/a Jess-em lift. You need to take out the spring in the Triton when using it in a table, easy height adjustment & bit changes. I like Whiteside router bits. Kinda spendy, but well made & last a long time.

Yep, what Dave said, no need to buy a lift, above table adjustment and bit changes with a single wrench, pretty well designed router for table use.

[Judson Green]

And it really loud!

Much louder that my equivalent size Hitachi.

And the PC has no soft start.

[Michael Yadfar]

Sorry to sound like such an amateur, but is a router lift required for router tables? It's something I never considered that I see a few people making mention of

[Stan Mitchell]

Sorry to sound like such an amateur, but is a router lift required for router tables? It's something I never considered that I see a few people making mention of



Not required if you buy the right router - but a joy to have in the long run.

[glenn bradley]

Sorry to sound like such an amateur, but is a router lift required for router tables? It's something I never considered that I see a few people making mention of

Not required but, nice to have. The router for the table, like many tools, can develop a preference born of experience. Again, like many tools, what one likes or dislikes depends on many things; a good starting place is budget. In the $200 t0 $300 range, the larger Triton (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Triton-3-25-HP-Dual-Mode-Plunge-Router-TRA001/203688448) will give you lift-like features and a lot of soft-start power. In the $300 to $400 range the Milwaukee 5625 (http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-5625-20-2-Horsepower-Variable-Adjustment/dp/B00007FPJK) is an above the table adjustable locomotive with soft start, variable speed and electronic feedback for constant torque under load delivering a very smooth cutting experience.

The Porter Cable 7518 (http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7518-Speedmatic-5-Speed-Router/dp/B0000222V3) is another favorite in this class with lots of power, 5 speeds and a loyal band of followers. Unlike the Triton, neither of these impressive monsters will allow easy above the table bit changes without a lift. There are also Bosch and Milwaukee combos that have above the table features in a lower powered router at a reduced cost. There are just so many to choose from now that many folks have a favorite.

The same goes for router bits. Just as with any cutter, most of the time the better materials command a higher price. There are some that seem to charge for the name but, Whiteside bits win the bake-offs, are reasonably priced and are made in America. Lee Valley and Woodtek came in 2nd and 3rd in one test but, I have had good luck with Freud which came in farther down the ratings and CMT rated a little higher although they have given short service life for me(?). I imagine once you reach a certain level of quality, your use comes into play.

I mention the personal preference effect with routers so just to be fair, I have a crowd of Milwaukees having sent most other brands to good homes. I have a host of bits that I will pick up whenever I stumble across a good price but, if I require a certain bit, I don't wait around; I just order it from Whiteside.

[Jery Madigan]

Too bad you didn't post this two weeks ago. I just sold a Bosch 1619 for $145 on craigs and a matching Router Raizer on ebay for $66. Bosch was in great shape and the Raizer was new, unused.

[Don Huffer]

See how opinions can vary....I'd agree that the PC 690 is the best router in its class....just that its in the lowest class of routers I can think of. The base design is for carpenters, its at least 40 years old, and its crude by todays standards. The motor is great, just keeps spinning. But try to sneak up on a precise fit, need to bump it just .010" and its anything but brand new, perfectly clean and well lubricated...good luck. Up a little, down a little, up a little, down a little......what is that silly ring thing with all the numbers for? It spins but does almost nothing most of the time, you unclamp the motor clamp and the thing drops. If I had only used one, I'd think I used a poor example. But I've used dozens in at least four different shops over several decades, some old beaters, some almost new....and they all work about the same IME. If I'm freehand flush trimming a bunch of stuff, or running a pattern but, or some set it and forget it profile, I'll reach for the 690, but if its a lot of set ups and more complicated/precise, I'm going for a bosch 1617 or similar. Bigger hole in the plate too. I never liked the 1617 in the table much, I tried that set up, seemed to get dust in the bearings and switch and lead to lots of poor performance.

With all due respect. Your sadly mistaken. I figured you didn't know much about the router when you described the height adjuster as a silly ring thing. Sorry you don't know how to use it. It works quite well and will allow micro adjustments. In 30 years I have never had the problems you have described.

Ever pick up a Fine Woodworking magazine? The 690 is the router in 99.9% of their articles. All after market fixtures are designed to fit this router first.

[Don Huffer]

And it really loud!

Much louder that my equivalent size Hitachi.

And the PC has no soft start.

They have a new router with soft start. They also had the first soft start router on the market. I don't know the model but it came out 30 years ago and they still sell it today.

[Jim Rimmer]

Yep, what Dave said, no need to buy a lift, above table adjustment and bit changes with a single wrench, pretty well designed router for table use.

I agree with these guys. I have a Triton in my router table and love it. And to answer your later question about a lift being required - no they are not but if you combine what you would pay for a good quality router and a lift, the Triton is a bargain and once you have a lift you will love it. Advantages: 1. easy height adjustments; no bending and stooping and reaching under the table to make height adjustments; 2. you don't have to remove the router from the table to change bits.

[Jon Nuckles]

I own a PC690 and like it, but it is definitely not the best choice for a router table. Without variable speed, you really shouldn't use wide bits. The PC7518 is much more powerful, has variable speed and a soft start. If you want to go with Porter Cable, you really want the 7518.

[Rick Moyer]

I have the Milwaukee 5625 in the table most of the time and it's a real horse, but keep in mind that large routers may only have a 1/2" collet, thereby making your 1/4 bits useless. I would suggest getting a combo kit ( I have the Bosch, but DeWalt or Porter Cable would be fine, to) which should give you both collets and likely two bases. That would be your best bang for your buck in my opinion. Despite some strong opinions presented, I don't feel there is one go-to router that's a must have. I started with an old Sears (same ring as mentioned on the PC), later purchased the Bosch kit, later added an undermount table base for it, then eventually got the big Milwaukee. I also have a small trim router. Recently I made a small clamp-on table and mounted the extra Bosch base to it so I can keep the Milwaukee in the bigger table. Usually have the 1/4" collet in the Bosch and the Milwaukee has a 1/2". I swap the Bosch motor into the other bases as need for free-hand routing. Get a kit, you'll have all you need for a while.

Of the bits I've used I would put them in this order of liking the most:
Whiteside
Freud
CMT
Bosch
(other junkier bits)
with Whiteside easily being my favorite, but relatively expensive. I try to have the basics covered with the Whitesides (still working on this), and fill in as needed with less pricey for limited use profiles.

[Michael Yadfar]

I agree with these guys. I have a Triton in my router table and love it. And to answer your later question about a lift being required - no they are not but if you combine what you would pay for a good quality router and a lift, the Triton is a bargain and once you have a lift you will love it. Advantages: 1. easy height adjustments; no bending and stooping and reaching under the table to make height adjustments; 2. you don't have to remove the router from the table to change bits.

Triton is one of the routers I was considering so I'm wondering what kind of lift you use

[Dave Anthony]

With the Triton you don't need a lift, you can adjust the bit height from the top of the table w/out one. With most other routers you'll need a lift to get the same functionality. I wouldn't recommend the Triton for hand held use, but in a table it works great.

[Jim Rimmer]

With the Triton you don't need a lift, you can adjust the bit height from the top of the table w/out one. With most other routers you'll need a lift to get the same functionality. I wouldn't recommend the Triton for hand held use, but in a table it works great.


Yeah, that's the beauty of the Triton - good quality router with built in lift, so to speak. You can raise it from above the table for height adjustments and bit changes. No additional lift required.

EDIT: I just reread my original post and it's not very clear there that you don't need a lift with the Triton. Sorry for the confusion. It's one of those familiarity things - I know how it works and you haven't seen one. Go to YouTube and search for Triton router; there are a lot of videos of features and comparisons.

[Michael Yadfar]

Yeah, that's the beauty of the Triton - good quality router with built in lift, so to speak. You can raise it from above the table for height adjustments and bit changes. No additional lift required.

EDIT: I just reread my original post and it's not very clear there that you don't need a lift with the Triton. Sorry for the confusion. It's one of those familiarity things - I know how it works and you haven't seen one. Go to YouTube and search for Triton router; there are a lot of videos of features and comparisons.

Are we talking about the 2HP or the 3.25? The one I saw on the website that said "best value" was the 2HP triton.

[Larry Browning]

Wow Michael! You really know how to get us going. What's next? Which track saw is the best? Or how about, Should I get a SawStop or a conventional table saw? Or my personal favorite, What's your opinion of Festool? Biscuit joiner or Domino?

BTW: PLEASE! no one try to answer any of my questions!

[Larry Browning]

Are we talking about the 2HP or the 3.25? The one I saw on the website that said "best value" was the 2HP triton.

My opinion, is that if you are looking for a router that you use in a table and hand held then the 2hp would be a good choice, but if you are looking for a dedicated table router the 3.25hp would be a better choice.

BTW: you can pick the 3.25hp Triton for $199 if you can catch it on sale.

[Michael Yadfar]

Yea I know, I ask too much questions. I assume you are joking but if it's an issue just don't answer. But you guys on this forum have been a real good help so far, and have had a big influence on my decisions so I believe it's been worth your time. There's a whole lot of nonsense questions I could ask, but trust me, I do hold off on a lot

[Larry Browning]

Yea I know, I ask too much questions. I assume you are joking but if it's an issue just don't answer. But you guys on this forum have been a real good help so far, and have had a big influence on my decisions so I believe it's been worth your time. There's a whole lot of nonsense questions I could ask, but trust me, I do hold off on a lot
No, NO, Totally joking! It's just that there are a few subjects that really hit some peoples hot button and they really feel passionate about. At one point the mods had to close a few threads on things like SawStop and Festool, because of the ugly comments. The mods do a really good job of keeping the peace. This is hands down my favorite woodworking web site.

Also, sometimes when you ask for opinions about what's the best this or that, you get so many conflicting opinions that you end up more confused about what to do than before you asked.

[Doug Ladendorf]

If you subscribe to Woodpecker's emails they always have a Whiteside bit or set on sale. Pick them up if you can. Excellent value.

Another vote for Milwaukee and Hitachi. Good experiences with both.

Doug

[Myk Rian]

The only turnoff about this product is the name Hitachi.
Designed by these guys?

http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad222/MykRian/misc/superheroes_zps82ddab9a.jpg

[Don Huffer]

Wow Michael! You really know how to get us going. What's next? Which track saw is the best? Or how about, Should I get a SawStop or a conventional table saw? Or my personal favorite, What's your opinion of Festool? Biscuit joiner or Domino?

BTW: PLEASE! no one try to answer any of my questions!

It's spelled Fe$tool. :)

[Don Huffer]

I guess when I answered the OP question. I gave my 2 cents based on the question. Best bang for the buck. If we are talking about best router of all time no cost limit going to spin giant bits router table for every need. Then my response would be different.

I built a router table with a lift that doesn't cost hundreds of dollars, is very accurate and is the easiest to set up and use. Bits change in a snap without lifting it out or cranking it up. It micro adjusts from the top and didn't cost more than $50 dollars.

[Bill Huber]

Ok, not wanting to beat a dead horse on this but a question.

I get a Triton router and mount it in my table, now I only have one router so if I want to use it hand held I have to remove the router from the plate, reinstall the router base plate and I am ready to go, correct?

With my lift I have the router in the table and need to use it hand held I just turn one screw and the router drops right out and I then put it in the base I need, plunge or fixed.

[Art Mann]

My take on using just one router for both applications is this. Even with a router lift, it takes some extra amount of trouble to remove and replace the router. What If I have a critical table setup I want to maintain and I also need to do a little hand work? This has happened to me many times. The second issue is I want the most powerful router I can afford for table use because I cut raised panels and big profiles with it. Heavier is actually better because it provides more stability as well as power. On the other hand, when I am using a router hand held, I want one that is fairly light and easy to control. I would not want to use my 3-1/4 hp Hitachi router as a hand held tool because it is too heavy. I have found that the 2-1/4 hp Dewalt I use is a good compromise for that purpose. I could certainly use just one router and I could get good results. I just prefer having two (actually I have 5 routers for various reasons).

[Michael Yadfar]

Yea, I'm definitely sure it would be nice to have both a hand and table router. I may buy the Triton 2HP router because it can serve as a decent table router, and when I eventually upgrade to a better table router, I would have a nice hand one too

[Jim German]

+1 on the big Milwaukee router, and the Whiteside bits. I'd also heavily suggest getting a 2nd router for handwork, should be able to get a used one cheap. A router big enough to work well in a table is going to be cumbersome to use hand-held.

As for the bits, in my experiance cheap bits tend to either start dull or get dull quickly, and I've had them end up burning the wood, which can be a real pain to sand out.

[Curt Harms]

I have gotten great service out of the Hitachi M12V 3-1/4 hp plunge router mounted in a table. I believe the replacement for it is the Hitachi M12VE. There is also a model M12V2. These are among the least expensive of the 3-1/4 hp variable speed routers suitable for table use and will probably serve you well if you can get over their hideous appearance.

Hence the need for a FULLY ENCLOSED router table :D. If I were looking for a new under-the-table router (I already have a router raizer), Hitachi would be on the short list. For anyone looking at Hitachi tools - nail guns & power tools, it might be worth checking out bigskytool(dot)com. They can have some nice prices on like-new refurbs.

[Greg Hines, MD]

That is a problem. It is why I went with the Porter-Cable 890. I keep one base permanently mounted to the router table, and use the other for hand held use exclusively. It eliminates the need to remove the base plate to do different operations.

One alternative that I have seen in a couple of places that might be applicable here would be that some people use toggle clamps mounted to the underside of their router table or insert plate, as an easy way to disconnect the two. If I were to do that, I would want some kind of registration strips to make sure that you put the router back the same each time.

Doc

[Mark Andrew]

I just went the old fashioned way and bought the most beastly one I could find, the PC7518. Built like a tank. I put it in the similarly tank-like Bench Dog ProLift. It's worked very well. I have other routers for hand held and jig work. It helped my decision that the 7518 came with a free 5" sander at the time. I didn't consider Milwaukee, as they are a Techtronic brand (i.e. same as Ryobi). Perhaps I was being unfair, but I haven't had good experiences with Ryobi gear.

[Guy Belleman]

I have the Triton 2HP in a router table and am very happy with it. Above table adjustment is smooth and precise. Motor is quiet and powerful. It is a pleasure to use and I am making a second table with yet another Triton.