Just how flat does my benchtop have to be?

[Frederick Skelly]

Used my BU Jointer. Took 4 hrs - CS says it should take 30 mins. I feel like pounded dog crap. You guys who flatten raw lumber must have arms like tree trunks. Man Im beat.

I was only able to get it within 0.02" over the width and something similar over length. Can I stop here or do I need to keep going until I get it to 0.004 or something?

Maybe I should go back to power tools, huh?
Fred

[Steve Voigt]

There is not some objective standard of flatness that every bench must measure up to. It depends entirely on what you're doing. The only way you can determine whether it's flat enough for you is to use it. So, I suggest you move on, try to build some projects with your bench. If it's not flat enough, you'll find out. Maybe in 6 months you'll want to try truing it up again. By then, you'll probably be better at the whole flattening thing anyway. Also, if it's a new bench, it may move a little, so even if you get it surgically flat now, it may not be that way in a few months.

As an aside to your "arms like tree trunks" thing, processing rough lumber doesn't need to be about brute force. I'm a buck fifty and don't hit the gym very often. Think judo rather than weightlifting.

[john zulu]

If you are using your arms then sure you be very tired. If you move the plane with your hips it is a LOT easier and the control is much better.

[Shawn Pixley]

I'd advise you work on your planing technique. The arms aren't the driver. The whole body drives the plane forward. Weight transfer from back foot through hips to front foot. This isn't brute force. I'm 6' and a fit 155 lbs. Built for speed not Sumo.

[greg Forster]

Frederick:

+1 on the above comments;

how high is your bench?

I hand-plane 100%, from country sawmill rough sawn lumber. Most the force is thru your legs/body mass.

[Sam Stephens]

what type of wood? oak and maple are quite a bit more taxing than pine or fir. FWIW, you're jointer should be a near last step. Those things are heavy and will wear you out quickly. most of the flattening should be done w/ a scrub or heavily cambered jack, not a jointer. If (once) you're benchtop is reasonably flat, then a jack plane would be the next in line. The jointer is there for final truing after the bench is more or less flat and should require minimal passes if you did a good job w/ the previous steps. If not, I'd go back to the jack.

[Frederick Skelly]

Thanks guys. After thinking on it overnight, I figured my exhaustion might be a technique problem. Sounds like it is.

The top of the bench is 34" high and made of simple, laminated pine 2x4s. Its rock solid. I really like it. Im using a jointer because Cosman suggested an 8 and Schwartz suggested a 7. My last attempt a few mos back was with a 5, which was the longest I had at the time. The 5 didnt flatten it - rode the hills/valleys a bit, so the jointer seemed to make more sense.

Thanks for teaching me!
Fred

[Chris Fournier]

Thanks guys. After thinking on it overnight, I figured my exhaustion might be a technique problem. Sounds like it is.

The top of the bench is 34" high and made of simple, laminated pine 2x4s. Its rock solid. I really like it. Im using a jointer because Cosman suggested an 8 and Schwartz suggested a 7. My last attempt a few mos back was with a 5, which was the longest I had at the time. The 5 didnt flatten it - rode the hills/valleys a bit, so the jointer seemed to make more sense.

Thanks for teaching me!
Fred

This is your problem right here - technique. I could flatten a bench top with a block plane and so can you.

The first thing you need to do is examine your top for wind and high/low spots using a straight edge. As you are doing so make notes in pencil on your top "High H + Low L -" etc. Indicate the wind and a few arrows indicating tricky grain reversals etc. won't hurt either. Your bench will look like a top map. Now you know what materials have to be removed and where.

Come up with a plan, what first?

Now plane specific areas and continue to assess with your straight end. You are working trouble spots right now not the entire surface. Once these spots are removed, re-assess mking pencil notes again!.

When you are satisfied that the areas have been deal with you can start to use the big boys 6/7/8 to blend all of the areas worked into one large flat surface. Then you will use this surface to help you get the other face parallel and flat (not as precisely of course).

I have watched several guys merrily make shavings as they use their handplanes and they have no plan because the plane does it but they sure are impressed with the shavings. You make a the plan and then plane to the plan. Now you are working like a craftsman!

Let us know how you do.

[John Crawford]

One other method you might put in the back of your head, and this will not improve your planing skills, but may take care of the issue so you can start planing other things..... Cabinet shops often will rent out time on their huge drum sanders. My benchtop was way out of whack (stock ripped with cheapo table saw), and full of knots (stock selected by ignorant person, myself).

I hauled it down to the cabinet shop.... 20 minutes (and $20) later, it was flat on both sides. I know others could accomplish this in less time with hand tools and with less expense.

[Bobby O'Neal]

This is your problem right here - technique. I could flatten a bench top with a block plane and so can you.

The first thing you need to do is examine your top for wind and high/low spots using a straight edge. As you are doing so make notes in pencil on your top "High H + Low L -" etc. Indicate the wind and a few arrows indicating tricky grain reversals etc. won't hurt either. Your bench will look like a top map. Now you know what materials have to be removed and where.

Come up with a plan, what first?

Now plane specific areas and continue to assess with your straight end. You are working trouble spots right now not the entire surface. Once these spots are removed, re-assess mking pencil notes again!.

When you are satisfied that the areas have been deal with you can start to use the big boys 6/7/8 to blend all of the areas worked into one large flat surface. Then you will use this surface to help you get the other face parallel and flat (not as precisely of course).

I have watched several guys merrily make shavings as they use their handplanes and they have no plan because the plane does it but they sure are impressed with the shavings. You make a the plan and then plane to the plan. Now you are working like a craftsman!

Let us know how you do.


GREAT stuff, Chris. A lack of a plan has been my downfall, I know. Its one of those things that is a head knowledge, but not an engrained experiential knowledge so I do not attack a board that way out of habit yet. And the results show. When I slow down and make a plan, flat and square lumber ensues. It also takes a lot less time.

[Jeff Heath]

If you are using your arms then sure you be very tired. If you move the plane with your hips it is a LOT easier and the control is much better.


Ding, Ding, Ding, Ding, Ding.......We have a winner!

[Brian Holcombe]

Also, if you bear down on the plane while planing you're sure to wear yourself out. As an experiment you can set the plane down on the top and push it across the table, it'll cut. It doesn't need a lot of pressure to stay in the cut.

Also, I do things a little differently then the above. I worked my bench with a #5 plane and an 8ft straight edge. After checking the top for twist and taking out any if it's there, I sweep the straight across the top and look for high spots, mark and cut the high spots until the top is flat. I called it a day at this point, since it's flat and it's a work surface, but further prepping can include smoothing it with the #4.