Measuring Tools for tool setup

[Jon Wilson]

I'm getting to the point I want to get serious about setting up my tools
(TS, Band Saw, Jointer, Miter Saw) as close to perfect as realistically
as possible.

What types of gauges will I need to achieve my desired results.
Jigs? Are there any I should be looking in to making?

and lastly (for this post anyways :D) can you point me in the right direction for good reference material?
Books, videos, DVD sets, etc...

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Jon, typical tools I use for that

- machinists square

- micrometer or digital vernier caliper

- dial indicator

- precision straight edge

- feeler gauges

- chunk of MDF for 5 cut square method

- alignment and calibration information from the machine manufacturer

Regards, Rod.

[Mike Chalmers]

Sometimes, the best device is not a tool. For example, to check square on your miter saw. You need a piece of wood almost as wide as your max cut. Plywood is excellent for this. Less will work, but the wider the better. The piece has to have parallel sides. Set the saw height so that it cuts a little more than half way through the wood. Flip the wood over, and cut again. You will be able to see if the saw is out of alignment by the cut line. If the cut line stays consistent, then the saw is true. A real bonus of this method is that any error seen is actually double the actual error.

[Jeff Duncan]

Information….that's way more important than any tool. You can have the highest precision tools on the planet, without the knowledge of how to use them they're worthless. Learn as much as you can about how to set up your machines and then you'll know which tools you need. There's a lot of guys out there who get their equipment set up without spending a lot, (if any), money on tools. But instead rely on simple shop made tools and jigs to get things done.

You can certainly buy books and videos, but before you do I'd recommend exploring the net. YouTube has a LOT of videos and there are probably thousands of different posts on setting up machinery. Once you've done that then buy what you can't find or are not content with. Unless you just happen to have some cash burning a hole in your pocket….in which case go to town:D

In my own shop I use a decent quality machinists square for most anything that needs to be checked. I do have a dial indicator for shaper setups, and a set of calipers….but you really don't need them for most basic woodworking;)

good luck,
JeffD

[Jon Wilson]

Sometimes, the best device is not a tool. For example, to check square on your miter saw. You need a piece of wood almost as wide as your max cut. Plywood is excellent for this. Less will work, but the wider the better. The piece has to have parallel sides. Set the saw height so that it cuts a little more than half way through the wood. Flip the wood over, and cut again. You will be able to see if the saw is out of alignment by the cut line. If the cut line stays consistent, then the saw is true. A real bonus of this method is that any error seen is actually double the actual error.


And THIS is a perfect example of why I love this site more than any other on the entire interwebz!

Awesome suggestion! I am going to get down to the shop and give this a try ASAP!

[Tony Leonard]

One of the things I have found very useful is a machinists square that is about 1/4" thick. That allows it to stand on its own. Comes in handy for squaring any tool. I got a nice set at one of the online places (MSC, etc.). I bought a TS Aligner JR kit a long time ago and that is pretty nice, but I don't use it much. I should since I have it. I use a dial gauge on a magnetic base with an arm for several things - good for checking runout and such. I also use it agains the saw fence when I am trying to make tiny adjustments. You can do a lot with some good squares and a dial gauge. I use a dial caliper a lot too, but for measuring the wood, not the tool mostly. I verify all of my cuts with a good square as well. When I say 'good," I mean a high quality machinists square like Mitutoyo, Starret, etc.

Tony

[Bill Neely]

Before you spend any money, buy this book: http://www.amazon.com/Care-Repair-Shop-Machines-Troubleshooting/dp/156158424X

Covers all kind of machine setup and maintenance.

[Brian Brightwell]

That is simple and brilliant at the same time. I give you a thumbs up.


Sometimes, the best device is not a tool. For example, to check square on your miter saw. You need a piece of wood almost as wide as your max cut. Plywood is excellent for this. Less will work, but the wider the better. The piece has to have parallel sides. Set the saw height so that it cuts a little more than half way through the wood. Flip the wood over, and cut again. You will be able to see if the saw is out of alignment by the cut line. If the cut line stays consistent, then the saw is true. A real bonus of this method is that any error seen is actually double the actual error.

[Jon Wilson]

Anyone have any experience with the OneWay Multi-Gauge?

I just happened to be browsing through Woodsmith Vol. 32 / No. 190 and
they had a little write up on this gauge along with some of the uses for
tuning up tools of all sorts. It was intended to be used as a tune-up tool for a jointer
but they have found a number of different ways to use it.

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2003200/2681/oneway-multi-gauge.aspx

[ken masoumi]

I was also looking to buy a dial indicator set just to have around the shop for setting up my table saw,jointer,planer etc.

Considered buying a one way multi-gauge but decided not to ,a dial indicator seems to be a more versatile tool than multi-gauge .
I must add ,those who own and use a multi-gauge seem to love the tool specially for setting up jointers.

[Kevin Jenness]

Rod's list is what I use. The longer and straighter the straightedge the better. I have a 6' Starrett calibrated to .001" over its length, and it has made the difference on a couple of large jointers I have worked on. One more tool I have found useful for truing up iron surfaces is a machinist's scraper. It takes a lot of elbow grease, but you can get things as flat as you want without taking them to a machine shop.

[Rich Engelhardt]

IMHO - you need one tool you can be 100% sure of all the time.
A 12" Starrett combination square is - IMHO - a good choice for that.
You get a 12" straight edge, a true 90* and a true 45* - plus the precision measurements where you know that 1/32" mark is exactly 1/32nd inch.

From there you can work out -so to speak - and pick up more pedestrian tools for less money to work with every day.
I seldom use my Starrett for projects, but, I use it to check the true of the Swanson Speed Squares I use all the time.
Ebay seems to be a good source for Starrett. I got mine from Hartville Hdwe. during a "bag sale".

Probably the one tool that had the greatest impact on the quality of my work was a cheap digital caliper. I bought one of the cheaper ones for under $10 and fell in love with it.
It was amazing to me how much better things fit together after I started using it.
I liked it so much I picked up one of the better metal fractional ones for about $20.
I know everybody here is always saying how 1/32nd one way or another makes no difference w/wood because it moves - but - the ease which things that are accurate to 1/32nd go together is worth the effort to measure that close.
Those HF digital calipers make doing that super easy.

Another supposed "gem" from HF is their dial caliper. I did pick one up a year or so ago on sale, ut, I haven't needed to use it yet so I can't say.
It's fairly well regarded here by a lot of people who's opinion I trust.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Hi Jon, typical tools I use for that

- machinists square

- micrometer or digital vernier caliper

- dial indicator

- precision straight edge

- feeler gauges

- chunk of MDF for 5 cut square method

- alignment and calibration information from the machine manufacturer

Regards, Rod.

+1. I'd add a machinist level and a good way to measure angles (not one of those wixey gadgets).

[Joe Scharle]

You may find this handy. The reason the slot is so long is to give enough reach to check the blade at 45 deg. That's a $5.00 Harbor Freight dial indicator. may cost more by now. Set the fence too.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/2748/Alignment_Setup1.JPG

[Jery Madigan]

For table saw setup, I think that the Wood Whisperer makes it pretty simple:

http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/tablesaw-setup-tuneup-pt-1/

Also, under no circumstances should you go here http://festoolownersgroup.com/

[Myk Rian]

A plastic drafting triangle. Cheap, accurate, and easily replaced.

[Chris Parks]

A piece of wire attached to a piece of timber sized to fit in the mitre slot. Drill an interference fit hole for the wire in the timber and bring the wire against the blade at one end and slide it to the other and measure any gap with some feeler gauges. Simple, accurate and cheap.

[Greg Hines, MD]

I use a Woodpeckers square for most of my 90 deg settings, and a drafting square for the 45s. For setting up a router table, I have two sets of Whiteside brass set up bars, and they have done very well for setting distances from the fence or depths with a plunge router.

Doc

[Terry Beadle]

I recommend a quality straight edge about 2 to 3 feet long.
It will be most useful in building any flat board(s) and definitely a work bench.
Use it on board edges to determine the amount of cup.
Use it on cast iron with feeler gauges to determine if it's flat enough to buy.
Use it on wood planes, iron planes, and air planes...whoops...maybe you won't make one but you can!

Enjoy the shavings!

[Larry Fox]

Probably the most useful addition I have made to my shop in this general functional area are 2 large machinist squares. I bought the biggest ones I could practically afford which I believe to be about 16" on the "up" leg (I am sure there is a technical name which is not "the up leg" but you get the idea) and about 10" on the bottom part. I bought 2 of them and it is amazing the number of things that it I use them for. I have a Starrett combination square and the larger squares are able to pic up variance that the smaller ones can't.