Talk to me about Kreg Pocket screw jigs

[Shane Copps]

I am thinking about getting a Kreg pocket screw setup. I have never messed with one and have heard only super good or super bad reviews on them.

Mostly I am planning on making furniture and things around the house. I would like to find a better way to secure corners than putting a "nailer" in the corner.

Thank you in advance for your help

Shane

[Jon Wilson]

They have their place. If I'm working on a piece of fine furniture, Nope, wouldn't use them.
A utilitarian piece. Absolutely.

Once you get the hang of using them, and I don't mean that it's difficult to use,
just the more you use the system the faster you will get.
Which is the big draw for me. They are also nice if you are short on clamps.

All in all this is one of those right place, right time decisions.


IMHO

[Bill White]

I have one of the original alum. body jigs that has done excellent duty. I use it often, and with good results. I'd buy the newer unit if I didn't have the dino version.
You'll find varying opinions same as those about biscuit joiners, but since I have both.................
Bill

[Eric DeSilva]

They are good for fast, but ugly, joinery. I had some issues when I was just starting with them with the joints creeping and not staying flush--seems like a recurrent theme in a lot of reviews. But I've founding clamping the pieces really well limits the creep.

[Lee Schierer]

I went to a wood working show a number of years ago when they were relatively new. My wife talked me into getting one. It sat in my shop for over a year before I tried it on a project. I had a joint I wasn't going to be able to clamp while gluing so I decided to try the jig. It worked great. Ever since then I use it off and on. I just finished my first box of 1,000 screws after more than 10 years so you can see it isn't used all that often. I use it even in fine furniture where the holes won't show to hold pieces while the glue dries. I don't think I've ever just used the screws alone. I also learned how to make the angled plugs from dowels, so I no longer buy the factory plugs. I used teh jig extensively to make this piece because it had to be delivered disassembled and then reassembled at the owners site.
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[Earl Rumans]

I have one I use for shop equipment stands and other non critical builds. They work great and you can build something very quickly with them. The only thing you have to make sure of is the screw length. If you use a screw too long, it will come through the piece you are joining. I usually glue the joints as well as use the screws. I haven't had any problems with things i have built with the system.

[Frederick Skelly]

Bought one about 10 years ago. Have used it about 3 times. It works fine, I just never warmed up to it. But every once in a while (3 times!), its been really handy to have. Thats really the only reason I keep it. But a lot of guys love theirs.
Fred

[Rick Potter]

For what it's worth, I got one of the original aluminum ones, and built a whole kitchen, over 16 years ago. It had Kreg screws on the face frames, and on the boxes, where I could hide them. The kitchen is now my daughters, and is as tight as when new.

I am currently building my new kitchen with pocket screws in appropriate locations.

Agree, that clamping those suckers tight when screwing them together is REALLY important.

Fine furniture, no. Casework is what they were developed for.

Rick Potter

[Jon Wilson]

As I was thinking about this thread a couple thoughts came to mind.

1) Get both the nice K4 or K5 kit that you can clamp/screw the base in place,
it also has a much nicer clamp for drilling the PH holes and when possible inserting the screws.

2) As others have mentioned, clamp the snot out of the 2 boards that are being screwed together.
When possible use the face clamp that comes in the 2 nicer kits, or at the very least purchase
the face clamp separately. It helps keep the face of the boards flush. In some cases I have even
used a thin long board with the face clamp to extend the reach of the clamp a little.

3) Do not over set the PH screws, it will crack the boards very easily.

[Tony Haukap]

I have the full Kreg setup, original, HD and Mini. It's one of those things that I find you get it for one or two tasks in mind and then find that it much more useful than originally thought. I even made my own version of the Kreg ToolBoxx...
http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/4132/uz5z.jpg

[Pat Barry]

I feel like the Kreg stuff is overpriced. I think though, that they make a good tool and the name adds a few bucks to the price. The pocket screw technology is very useful for things like putting together face frames for example

[Troy Turner]

Some folks don't like them because they like to keep heirloom pieces and period pieces as correct as possible. Can't remember what I bought mine for a while back, but I've used it numerous times for everything from gates to trimming out plywood shelves (hidden of course) to making our computer desk. Talk about cinching up a joint. I will agree that you should clamp your work up if possible to avoid the little bump you get when you drive the screw.

[Rich Riddle]

I looked at the Kreg unit about two months ago for time saving purposes. After looking at the design, I purchased the Harbor Freight model made of Aluminum. If you go that route you will have less than half the cost into it. Purchase the Kreg screws though as the ones that come with the Harbor Freight model prove inferior. The pocket hole jig works flawlessly on face framing projects where one cannot see the back side. Good luck.

[Larry Frank]

I have one that I have used quite a bit especially for building cabinets in the shop. I also got the micro version which will work on 1/2" stock. I used the 1/2" version to make drawers for a shop cabinet out of 1/2" plywood. I practiced on some scrap a few times and then made 6 large drawers.

Others have pointed out two extremely important points -

1) You need to clamp the two parts to make certain they do not move while driving the screws.

2) You need to use the torque setting on you drill when you drive them so that you do not over drive them.

[Robert Chapman]

I have used them extensively for years. The Kreg jig that I use the most is the single hole model. With and without glue these joints hold up very well. As stated above - tight clamping when driving the screws is critical. It would be nice if Kreg would make a carbide drill as I go thru drill bits quite rapidly with the hardwoods that I use.

[Michael Yadfar]

I have have worked with Kreg joints before, but very briefly. I did this when I "experimented" with different joint methods. I remember it being quick and easy, and it left a very clean finish. But this isn't really holding much, just the front boards of the cabinet.

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[Shane Copps]

Thanks folks,

Still kind of undecided, but I have learned a bunch from your replies. I do know if I get a setup it will be the K4 or K5. Probably the K4 as it looks a little more to my liking.

Thank you
Shane

[Bruce Wrenn]

Have had Kreg jig since 1996. I have two of the aluminum ones, two of the rear clamp plastic ones, K-3, and several of the mini's. They are my go to machines for building router templates. Used one this week to repair a toilet partition. Cheapest way to buy bits, is go to Lowes and buy mini, which includes bit, collar, and wrench. Kreg will sharpen bits, but not if point is broken off/ damaged. I converted one of my aluminum one to front clamp.

[Jim Finn]

I have one and used it on one project only. I found that it split the pine badly and that it does not work on 1/2" wood. I never heard of a smaller version that would. That might be useful.

[Steven Powell]

I have Kreg 2000 kit and it is great for face frames. Just built a huge basement wall cabinet (80 x 31 x 14) a few weeks ago from 4 plywood carcasses and a face frame, all built entirely with pocket hole screws. It worked great and the project was completed quickly.

[Lee Reep]

My first use for a Kreg Pocket Hole Jig was to secure the "wooden block" feet on a sofa and love seat. Those things twisted/spun out of alignment all the time. I drove in a screw from the inside edge so it would not show, More recently, I built a large workbench with a CNC'd MDF top to use with my Festool track saw. I decided to use 4X4s for legs, and 2X4s for all the side and end pieces, as well as the cross supports for the top. All wood is flush, and screws were used on inside edges and undersides, so no screws show. The bench is rock solid. I would have preferred to use a Domino, but I do not have one yet.

[Rick Potter]

Shane,

If you decide to get a kit, get the K5 or find a used K3. The front mounted handle is much easier to use, especially on cabinet sides....picture yourself reaching over a 24" high panel to lock it in place.....every 8 inches or so.

If you just want to try it out, get a basic one hole kit with drill bit from Lowes for $20 or $30.

Rick Potter

[Earl McLain]

I've got the K-4, and use it regularly where appropriate. Works great. As to spending more for a Kreg version, i doubt i'll ever need customer service on this jig, but the few times i've needed some help or parts for a Kreg item--outstanding service.

On another forum, a user posted pictures of his foot operated pneumatic clamp. As i recall he had less than $60 in parts and the setup looked like it would work easily, and looked simple enough that even i might be able to pull one together.

earl

[Rich Engelhardt]

I bought a $40 kit and it sat for a couple of years before I used it.

Then one day, I needed to install a center stile on an old under sink cabinet @ a rental house.

I figured I'd give the Kreg a try.

It worked 100% as well as it was supposed to & I've been hooked since then. I use mine all the time for all sorts of things.
Right now I'm in the middle of a bathroom remodel here @ home and I'm putting in a new tub and ceramic tile.
The Kreg makes installing the supports for the shower head and the tub spigot a super easy job.
W/out it, trying to toe nail those supports in w/out having them move is a royal pain because placement is so super critical.


+1 or +2 or +3 to picking up a single hole "mini".
I have a K3 system mounted on a box, but, I use the older ~ $40 "portable" as much if not more.

[Andrew Kertesz]

The K-5 has an automatic adjusting clamp for your material thickness and I think that has carried over to the newer K-4 as well. Overall the K-5 has a few modifications that are nice.

[Jim Andrew]

For hardwoods such as walnut, I keep a hex head drill bit handy for drilling the piece receiving the screw. Too many splits otherwise. And I use the coarse thread screws on walnut, the directions say to use the fine thread on hardwood, but oak is the only wood that seems to work with fine thread for me. I built a assembly table using a 3/4" x 1 1/2" T track I bought from 8020 on ebay. Drilled and tapped 1/4" holes every 4" to attach it to the table, used double thickness ply so the track attaches to the lower layer. When I get done with my shop remodel looking forward to using it.

[John Stankus]

I bought a $40 kit and it sat for a couple of years before I used it.
...

The Kreg makes installing the supports for the shower head and the tub spigot a super easy job.
W/out it, trying to toe nail those supports in w/out having them move is a royal pain because placement is so super critical.


I love mine (K3 if I recall correctly) for things like this. When putting the lights in the shop I needed to add a 2x4 between the rafters to have a place to attach the fixture. The Kreg pocket hole did this without me whacking the structure to get it toenailed.

John

[Mike Weaver]

My wife bought me the start up kit (KTC4200) that includes the R3 jig for Christmas '13. I've used it for one project so far (for her) and it made short work of what would have been a tricky glue-up. What I was drawn to with that jig (I picked it....and her and they are both keepers! ;) is the ease at which it's mobile and has built in gauges for setting the proper distance from the edge for drilling. Slick!

I look forward to using it a lot.

Oh, and the right angle clamp is great for additional clamping options.

-Mike

[Bill McDermott]

I have and use the mini. It was a gift. I thought "nice stepped drill bit and cheezy plastic guide". Then I used it and like it -- in line with what has been said above.

But there's more...

Using the simple jig introduced me to the specific screws used. The hole-cutting capability, the washer-head design, having a shank smaller than the threads... these were all very helpful for pulling pieces together. The jig helps you place screws diagonally in specific operations, but the screws themselves are versatile and useful additions to the joinery technique bank.

Also, my home made clamping jig did not manage to keep the pieces from shifting during drilling, until I glued some 220 sandpaper to the base. Now the pieces stay put and the holes go where I aim.

[Erik Christensen]

I have one and it gets a fair amount of use - go through a box of 1,000 2 1/4" screws every 18-24 months. Really like it for cabinet case construction when the holes never show and clamps would be a pain. I found that it works really well used along with a domino - the domino maintains alignment and the kreg eliminates the need for clamps and both together lets me build bomb-proof cases fast & square

[Cary Falk]

FYI. My Lowes is clearing the 1-1/4" coarse and fine 500ct boxes for $7 and $5 respectively. YMMV.

[Dan Rude]

Well as you can see the group is diverse. I started out with the k2000 and a mini. Started using it for light builds and such. I then started using it for putting in studs for my basement remodel. Liked it since I could change the layout very quickly, since the plan changed somewhat over time. I then bought the HD, which is made for 2x4 construction. I then had a bit break and sent an email to Kreg. Within a week I had 2 new 1/2" bits in my mailbox. So I use it for a lot of things. I would like the K-3 and trying to justify the K-5. I sold my K-2000 for about 80% of my original cost. Dan

[Rich Engelhardt]

FYI. My Lowes is clearing the 1-1/4" coarse and fine 500ct boxes for $7 and $5 respectively. YMMV.
Wow!

Thanks for that info. It's worth a special trip to Lowes just to see if mine is also. That's like 1/2 to 2/3 off the best price I've seen for them.

[Jamie Lynch]

I've had the jr Kreg jig for 5+ years. It works great. For me it was well worth the $40. I bought the same kit for my dad and he loves it, maybe a little too much ;-)

[Shane Copps]

Thanks again folks

I love getting info from you. Now the only issue is the is the same ? " Do I get one or not?" Ha Ha.

I am thinking of getting a Mini now and see how I like it.

Thanks again
Shane

[Bruce Wrenn]

Remember there are two kinds of pocket hole jig owners. Those that own a Kreg, and those who wish they owned a Kreg.