George Bokros
02-27-2014, 2:29 PM
I bought the router table 5 or more years ago and find that the fence is not true, it bows away from the bit in the center. I have not had any trouble before but the other day I was running a bull nose on the top a a apothecary cabinet I am making for the LOL and the tail end was dropping into the bit when I came to end of the piece, good thing I was running test material first. I put a straight edge against the fence and then discovered why. I shimmed my sub fence to get it true and all was well.
Today I was running bull nose on the tops of the drawer sides and had the same issue. I did not remove the shims prior to running again test pieces. I had to adjust the shims to get those parts to run true.
I guess my first shimming was not true but worked okay for the longer top and trim I made but not for the shorter drawer sides.
I want to avoid modifying my router table top to use the Woodpeckers Super Fence, it requires T-Track 17" on center and the Hart Design T-Track is on 27" centers so WP fence will not work without either modifying the fence or the router table top.
Would you replace the fence with another Hart Design with the stipulation that I can test it for flatness before I purchase it?
TIA for your input.
George
Today I was running bull nose on the tops of the drawer sides and had the same issue. I did not remove the shims prior to running again test pieces. I had to adjust the shims to get those parts to run true.
I guess my first shimming was not true but worked okay for the longer top and trim I made but not for the shorter drawer sides.
I want to avoid modifying my router table top to use the Woodpeckers Super Fence, it requires T-Track 17" on center and the Hart Design T-Track is on 27" centers so WP fence will not work without either modifying the fence or the router table top.
Would you replace the fence with another Hart Design with the stipulation that I can test it for flatness before I purchase it?
TIA for your input.
George