Stripped Screw Hole -- Newbie Question

[tony roth]

The two screws that hold a plate onto my tail vise without which I cannot open the vise (they are not particularly relevant to closing) have pulled out of their holes, leaving behind stripped holes. So, I am greatly in need of a solution -- is there a way to fix the screws back into the stripped holes (incidentally, beech wood). Would it work if I filled the holes with something like epoxy or gorilla glue? I assume either of those options would hold the screws in place qutie well, certainly give me a better chance than wood filler. Unfortunately, I cannot use wider screws without having the plate throughwhich they pass remilled, which wouldn't be easy.

Any help would be MUCH appreciated! I realize that this question might not qualify as a hand tool question, but since you all have been so helpful to me in the past, I really wanted to post here. Hope no one minds.

thx, tony.

[Mike Cutler]

You could bore out the stripped out area, and epoxy in a dowel. I've also found that the "Quick Wood" Epoxy is very strong. Give it a full 24 hour cure. One other option could be to install a thread cert, and change the screws to properly sized machine screws. Just some thoughts.

[tony roth]

Mike, thanks for the reply. I like the idea of epoxying in a dowel, though a bit wary of trying to bore out the whole for the dowel given my skill level. But I assume that would work better than simply trying to epoxy in the screws themselves into the existing wholes(?). Also, what is a "thread cert"? thanks, tony.

[Steve Cox]

I prefer to use plugs rather than dowels for this application. Dowel pieces are usually end grain to the screws and thus don't have the holding power that plugs which are usually cut from face grain have. Boring out with a forstner bit or a brad point would work since you want square bottomed holes. A plug cutter (probably 3/8") is not too expensive.

[Bob Smalser]

Obtain some approriately-sized flathead machine screws and nuts....say, #10 or 1/4"...drill a quarter-inch hole into your screw holes...come at the underside of the workbench and chop slots into the holes you drilled that'll capture the nuts....and bolt your vise on rather than screw it.

Much. much more effective than screws. If you can find them, square nuts are the cat's meow for this.

[Mike Cutler]

Tony. a "Thread Cert" is also call threaded insert. It is a wood screw thread on the outside and a machine thread on the inside. Just about all of the wood supply catalogs have them. I've seen two different types, One is as described above, and the second is hammers into the hole. It has "barbs" on the side to grab the wood. I haven't had much luck with this type though, they tend to spin in the hole.
The Quick Wood that I mentioned may just be able to fill the existing holes, and allow you to reuse the existing hardware. It is very strong stuff. Just remember to let it cure a full 24 hours before you reinstall the screws.

[Bob Smalser]

Also depends on where this hole is...threaded inserts are worthless if drilled into end grain. Use a machine screw.

[Mike Cutler]

Correct Bob. I don't exactly know what the vise he refers to is built like. I like your idea about just replacing the screws with moly bolts and be done with it. It's definitely a long term more permanent solution.

[tony roth]

thanks all for your replies. once i have the skill and confidence to undertake bob's suggestion i will, but as i lack both at the moment, i have adopted the following plan. i am first going to try filling the whole with epoxy woodfiller, let it cure well, redrill an appropriate pilot, and replace the 1 1/4 brass screws with 4 inch stainless screws of the same guage (12), threaded 2/3rd's, with star heads to ensure i don't strip the screws trying to get them in (definitely coat the threads in liquid soap to facilite entry). if that fails, i alwas have the option of drilling out the holes and filling with wood plugs, redrilling pilots (again), and trying similar screws. hopefully i won't need to invoke bob's solution for a very long time. part of my concern, by the way, is that i can't seem to get the jaw off the bench to place it into a drill press and certainly would not want to attempt bob's solution free hand. tony.

[Bob Smalser]

thanks all for your replies. once i have the skill and confidence to undertake bob's suggestion i will, but as i lack both at the moment...

You underestimate yourself.

Nothing is much easier than this technique....and when used as a joint, if you step the rails/stretchers into a dado in the legs to provide a shelf, you have an everlasting joint like these made by my father in 1953.

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/2594265/101714043.jpg

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/2594265/101714041.jpg

[Jeff Bradley]

An even easier solution is to get some wooden matchsticks (or any piece of thin scrap wood really) and just jam them in the stripped out screw hole and break them off so they are flush. Just put as many as will fit in the hole and then just reinsert the screw. This works pretty well under most circumstances but one of the other solutions would probably be better if the screw spends too much time under load.

[Don Baer]

An even easier solution is to get some wooden matchsticks (or any piece of thin scrap wood really) and just jam them in the stripped out screw hole and break them off so they are flush. Just put as many as will fit in the hole and then just reinsert the screw. This works pretty well under most circumstances but one of the other solutions would probably be better if the screw spends too much time under load.

I have used Golf Tee's to repair stripped out holes in door frames for hindges. They work rather well since they are made of a hard wood, Maple I believe. I just squirt some glue in the hole, jam in the golf Tee and cut it flush. Then re-instal the screws.

I like Bob's idea on this one though since it is a trough hole application.