help me build a bench!

[Robert Culver]

Im looking to build a proper bench I plan to make it 8 ft long and 2 ft wide. Looking for some advice on a couple of things I know its going to wind up to personal preference but I would like to hear some of your opinions and why ? First off im looking at building a spilt top because I feel it will be easier to handle the 12 in wide pieces anybody have split top that wish they had gone solid or vs versa?
Second my local home dept has hemlock 2x12 lumber. That would be exceptable I guess but im not real impressed with it and it may take a few trips to gather up enough to put togater a descent one. Should I bite the bullet and make it from hardwood maple or something??? that's a big price increase??
Third dog holes Square or round??
Im looking for sure to add a leg vise but cant really make up my mind on a tail vice?
Also I need to make this sucker so I can break it down Anybody know of any other options other than bench crafteds hardware to do this? im sure I could use lag bolts or something but im looking to keep the construction clean looking!
I have ordered brenchcrafts plans but an open to slight changes...
Anybody that has built one have some good points I need to think about!!

[David Weaver]

See if any of your local hardwood dealers are unloading any 8/4 hardwoods. Off and on, it's been ash (because of the emerald ash borer) and sometimes a dealer will have a good deal on something like soft maple. I don't see hard maple, cherry or walnut on deep sale much at the retailers around here (especially not in 2" thick varieties). Just red oak and surfaced stuff they call cherry but that has no color. There's a reason it ends up on the sale pallet at rockler. If you can get ash or soft maple or hard maple, I'd pay a couple of bucks a board foot for that. I don't like borg white stuff for anything you're going to glue together. It will require dimensioning, letting it sit, and then replaning/jointing to see if you can sneak a build in with it before it moves more.

[Christopher Charles]

I recently finished a B/C split top. I have a filler board that makes it functionally a solid top. Struggled with many of the same questions, documented in this thread:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?169730-Is-the-Klausz-Frid-Scand-Bench-Dead

Would definitely go with square dog holes. If you're in W NY, you should be able to find good hardwood cheap (ash would be a good choice, but nearly anything for the base will work).

Good luck and I'm sure you'll get lots of good advice here; I did!

C

[steven c newman]

Guess I'm just cheap. Dumpster dived for most of the parts for my bench. Been giving the bench a royal workout lately. Wore out the pipe clamp for the leg vise, just stripped the threads on the screw head end. Replaced with another one. 283462283463A few weeks ago, that tool chest was just a pile of rough sawn boards. Bench has a "plane stop" attached to it. Helps with face plane work. There is a Crochet on the far end. IF a board is long enough, I can clamp one end in the leg vise, the other into the Crochet. If it isn't, a "c" clamp is used to hold up one end, while the other is in the Crochet. Tool wells? Next time, I won't build one, it just collects any dirt, shavings, and junk. 283464Crochet at work, with the c clamp to hold the board up. Not clamped to the side, just sits under the board. A couple good whacks on the end of the board towards the Crochet will clamp things up.

[Winton Applegate]

Nooooo don't buy that semi dry Home Depo wood for real projects like a bench etc.

Find a GOOD local cabinet grade wood supplier and SUPORT THEM and they will take care of you.

IT IS WORTH PAYING MORE IN THE LONG RUN ! ! !

Don't skimp on your bench; the wood or the hardware or the time put into it.
unless you want the production that comes from it to be second rate.

I didn't even consider the price of the wood for my bench. I chose the best wood I could come up with, purple heart, and then I went looking for somebody who had big planks of the stuff.

I even had pleasant surprises from my experience.
I do not regret it.

People use ROUND dogs ? ? ? ?
Hummm . . .
I wonder why
ha, ha, every body round cheeer knows I just got to say that.

I don't have a split bench. I was aware of it from David Charlesworth's bench and books.
I spent about a year studying everything in libraries, bought books, magazines and you name it about fine cabinet making work benches and every other sort of bench.
I decided without question that I wanted a Klausz bench.
I built one.
I am perfectly happy with it.
I have other benches as well.
I can come up with a split bench by arranging my two eight foot Japanese planing beams that I used to make my Klausz side by side.


handle the 12 in wide pieces

I am not sure what you mean there. My Klausz "handled" this bubinga dining table and it is a whole lot wider than 12 in and all the planks that made it up.


http://i801.photobucket.com/albums/yy298/noydb1/OhgodwhathaveIgotmyselfinto22-55-05_zpsef6de5d2.jpg (http://s801.photobucket.com/user/noydb1/media/OhgodwhathaveIgotmyselfinto22-55-05_zpsef6de5d2.jpg.html)


No really . . . THERE IS a bench under there some where
http://i801.photobucket.com/albums/yy298/noydb1/Gettinbetter22-55-05_zps6601e47f.jpg (http://s801.photobucket.com/user/noydb1/media/Gettinbetter22-55-05_zps6601e47f.jpg.html)


There he is


http://i801.photobucket.com/albums/yy298/noydb1/IMG_0081_zps1b0d98f8.jpg (http://s801.photobucket.com/user/noydb1/media/IMG_0081_zps1b0d98f8.jpg.html)


Speaking of split top and my planing beams that is one of them in front of my bench. Kind of a scaffolding arrangement. I wound up standing ON my bench while planing the end grain of the bubinga table.


http://i801.photobucket.com/albums/yy298/noydb1/quotTheTablequot-1.jpg (http://s801.photobucket.com/user/noydb1/media/quotTheTablequot-1.jpg.html)


I say give yourself permission to have more than one bench.
BUT
make sure one of them is a Klausz.

PS: here's the old Devil himself working a plank a bit wider than 12 inch so I suppose I am not too far off.


http://i801.photobucket.com/albums/yy298/noydb1/IMG_2300_zpsf7baa3b4.jpg (http://s801.photobucket.com/user/noydb1/media/IMG_2300_zpsf7baa3b4.jpg.html)



BREAK IT DOWN
My Klausz top just sets on bullet shaped dowels so couldn't be easier to pull the engine crane up, lever it up a bit and put big cloth belts under in a double sling arrangement and over to the moving van.
You can make the base so it breaks down with "bed bolts" or tusk tenon construction and carry those pieces on by hand or on a low cart.

We are talking five or six hundred pounds so I don't often take the thing over to a friends house on my bicycle.

I once pulled a five hundred pound Miller welding machine from one shop to the new shop a few blocks away on a big old oak dolly with big wheels using my bicycle but that's another story.

[Brian Holcombe]

Choosing hardwood over something from the Borg is a good move. I did a solid top, but would certainly do a split top if I did it again. If you ever need to take apart or move the bench you'll be glad the top comes apart.

I would do 8/4 or heavier and solid pieces will save you from having to do the glue up.

[Andrew Hughes]

Hi Robert, if you pick the right wood for your top you may never need to build another bench again.I would stay away form super hard exocits or the junk that's sold at the Borg.Milled from little baby trees.
What ever wood you find keep in mind to lay the grain so you can easily flatten the top esp where your dogs line up.The first couple years the wood may move a bit and have you thinking about truing your top every other weekend let it be.When the spring hits or in the fall get you favorite plane out camber the blade nicely and enjoy.
Having a nice flat top is very important if you get a couple hollow spots let them be till the next season and tru the top again.Soon the wood will get the hint.
Good wood is not that expensive compared to what decent clamps cost.If your already have your clamps your miles ahead of me.Split top is a nice design would like to have one myself.Andrew

[Maurice Ungaro]

Robert,
Here is a link to a bench that may be the answer you're looking for. It's a Moravian bench, purposely built to be transportable: http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/wMyers/moravianBench/moravianBench-01.asp

[Robert Culver]

Im close on clamps I think I have access to a bunch and I have a few jet cabnet clamps but I went to lows and bought 4 new bessey clamps they had them on sale 10 percent of plus my military discount is another 10 so that knocked a pretty good chunk off them would picked up more but the were out of the 40 inch ones lol I live about a hour from west penn hardwoods so I have just about everything imaginable at my disposal its just a matter of what do I want to spend. I think I like the idea of a hard wood top and a softer wood base I will have to toss that around in my head a bit I don't want to build it again so its a long term investment. I was looking at the bench on the wood whispers sight and he made a leg vise that similar to the bench craft that looks really appealing and at that price point I don't think you can beat it I wish I could just figure out the part number for the hand wheel! Thanks for all you input and keep it coming!!

[Brian Holcombe]

What type of bench are you planning?

i used Lie Nielsen hardware on mine, very happy with it. My bench is modified Scandinavian style.

I would use use hardwood for the base as well, a little heft in a woodworking bench is a good thing. When you are using your planes it's nice to have something that stays put.

[Robert Culver]

Maurice that's a pretty interesting bench I like his basic idea thanks

[Robert Culver]

Brian I have a copy of bench crafted plans on the way roubo style is my plan but I want to build it so I can break it down and move it cause im sure im not in my last shop for now it will probably wind up in a small room I have set up to do wood working in the winter months in my basement until I build a out building I can heat ! But my plans are to move south during retirement so I will need to move it once again. Who really knows about the final move but I sure wouldn't want to leave it behind if I do go!

[Brian Holcombe]

In that case I would consider something shorter than 8'. My bench is 6' and I've built some long case goods on it, longer than the bench itself. You generally have to flatten these by hand, and flatten them to .010 or so, so it's best not to make it more difficult than it needs to be , IMO.

I built a base with tusk tenons and interlocking joinery that I can take apart with relative ease. I tapped 1/2" coarse threads into the top and used high quality bolts to attach it to the base.

[Robert Culver]

I have considered 6 ft as well and haven't ruled that out Im considering the through tenons with a wedge on the front but not sure if I want to go this rte yet. on the sides I think I will assemble them as one component

[Brian Holcombe]

I built two heavy stretchers (8/4, over 8" wide) with tusk tenons (through tenon with verticle wedge) and sides built as components. The tops of the side components double as very heavy battens (16/4) I found a century old Scandi bench and made a very similar design for myself, with a few updates such as an interlocking system of battens.

the tusk tenons are great, incredibly secure.

my bench is fairly wide by woodworking bench standard, 32" before the vise, however it works perfectly for the projects I build. It's worth considering what your usual projects are and working backward into the size for your bench, erring on the smaller side since you plan to move around.

i built mine in hard maple, which is a fantastic wood for a bench, IMO. It's stable, heavy and strong. I wouldn't hesitate to use white oak, beech or similar. I would not consider walnut for the top.

[Mike Siemsen]

I would build an English joiner's bench (Nicholson) from construction grade lumber. I would use 3/4" round holes in the bench for dogs and holdfasts. I only use a twin screw (moxon) vise and hold fasts with a crochet for edge planing and a planing stop.. Why?
A bench is not an altar for sacrificung wood on so it doesn't need to be fancy. A soft wood bench is a bit "grippier" and the wood lays in place with out sliding off. , when i bump a piece of my hardwood project on my soft wood bench the bench dents and not my project. It is easier to drive nails in to to hold work. I can build an 8 foot long workbench in a day with hand tools and be building projects the next day. the Nicholson type bench is naturally a split top bench by the way it is built with cross bearers. Since the bench is cheap and easy to build ($80 to $100) when you move leave the bench for the next guy and build a new one when you get where you are going. Built properly i have never had a problem with home center materials, sure it shrinks, plan for it. I have helped build at least 15 of these benches. You can make them 16 feet long if you want! It is a work holding system that you need to learn how to use but it works great. Don''t put stretchers on the bench the long way and attach the legs with carriage bolts in case you do need to move it. When I build an English joiner's bench I flatten the frame and then attach the top, this greatly limits any flattening that is needed to do after the top is attached.
Traditionally workbenches have been made with easily accessible local materials and built quickly to get to the work! In the end you must build the bench that pleases you.

[Roy Lindberry]

Im looking to build a proper bench I plan to make it 8 ft long and 2 ft wide. Looking for some advice on a couple of things I know its going to wind up to personal preference but I would like to hear some of your opinions and why ? First off im looking at building a spilt top because I feel it will be easier to handle the 12 in wide pieces anybody have split top that wish they had gone solid or vs versa?
Second my local home dept has hemlock 2x12 lumber. That would be exceptable I guess but im not real impressed with it and it may take a few trips to gather up enough to put togater a descent one. Should I bite the bullet and make it from hardwood maple or something??? that's a big price increase??
Third dog holes Square or round??
Im looking for sure to add a leg vise but cant really make up my mind on a tail vice?
Also I need to make this sucker so I can break it down Anybody know of any other options other than bench crafteds hardware to do this? im sure I could use lag bolts or something but im looking to keep the construction clean looking!
I have ordered brenchcrafts plans but an open to slight changes...
Anybody that has built one have some good points I need to think about!!

I built my bench from Doug Fir (with a splash of black walnut), so you won't hear me saying its necessary to go with hardwood. So far, I love my bench.

I used square dog holes, but that was more out of the scandanavian style that any perceived superiority. Round would have been easier to do. The dogs would have been easier to make as well.

As far as the ability to break it down, I'll tell you how I did it: My top is connected to the base only by a dowel in each leg assembly. It can lift right off. The stretchers are joined to the leg assemblies with half-dovetail shaped tenons and a wedge on top that completes the dovetail (see picture below). They can be broken down in a matter of minutes. I added a piece of plywood between for a shelf, so I still have to remove those screws to break it down.

I also find my end vice to be indispensable. I use it for constantly for planing; the shoulder vice for joinery.

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