Best way to remove rust and keep rust off machines

[Michael Yadfar]

Sorry if I've been overdoing myself by posting 4 times in the past few days, but you guys have been a real help so far!

Now ow this is a very easy google search, but my issue is that the answers vary so much (I may get the same results here). As far as removing rust (light surface rust), I've heard sand paper, orbital sanders, steel wool, dish cleaning pads, and similar products. I've also seen varying things to assist with the sanding too, such as wd40, mineral oil, vinegar...

As far as preventing rust I've again heard varying tips. I've heard paste wax, oil, grease, a coat of wd40, and specialty products for this.

Im sure that all these methods work to at least some degree, but from personal experiences, what all works best!

[Matt Day]

You're probably going to get the same answers that you found when you searched.

I use Evapo-Rust to remove rust (works awesome!) when more than just surface rust. To clean up tops like TS or BS, I use a scotch brite pad on my ROS and some WD40. Tougher rust I'll use wet/dry sandpaper.

[Thomas Hotchkin]

Barkeeper Friend to remove rust and Johnson and Johnson paste wax to keep it at bay. Tom

[Rob Feldner]

For light rust or minor cleaning, a mixture of kerosene and oil in a spray bottle and a rag or scotchbrite pad. I up the ante with abrasives or mechanical help as needed. If it is ugly rusty, I use Ospho or Naval jelly. Be aware that this is Phosphoric acid, so read the MSDS and treat it with appropriate caution. To keep it off something that is a surface that is being used, like a jointer bed, paste wax. Boshield seems the best at keeping rust off of things, but it leaves a sticky film so it isn't good for work surfaces.
If you have to store things in a somewhat unfriendly (as in humid) environment for a long time, bag the machine in shrink wrap and put in a tub of dessicant. Don't forget to check it periodically.

[Michael Yadfar]

This may sound like a dumb question but what kind of wax should I use? Can I use my Minwax paste finish wax that I have for wood projects? Also, if this is what I use, is application on cast iron the same as I would do on wood?

[Dennis Lopeman]

Someone mentioned "Johnson and Johnson paste wax" above... I sure any paste wax would do... I got mine at a woodworking store: Crystal Clear Paste Wax (brand: Staples - not the store!) - Great stuff, use in small quantities, and I Love the way it smells!

[Loren Woirhaye]

Depends on your climate. For some people flash rust on cast iron machines is a daily problem. I use some gas-permeable machine covers from HTC. I use paste wax on my machines but my climate is dry and daily flash rust is not a problem for me. Serious rust I remove with a cup brush on an angle grinder, following with a light brash brushing and paste wax.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

The best way to deal with rust, is to prevent it. Insulating the woodshop usually fixes the rust issues.

[Erik Loza]

For me: Elbow grease (or an RA sander if it's a flat table top...) and Scotchbrite pads, followed by a good coat of Johnson's cheapie past wax. I personally have not had good luck with products like WD40 or Boeshield as a rust preventative in high-wear areas. Seems like it just gets scrubbed right back off. The wax has some build to it, so gets into the metal pores and stays there better.

Again, just my personal experience.

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

[Jim Daughtridge]

Many years ago I purchased an old band saw and it had a 24'' x 34'' table that was covered in rust, not pitted yet, but rusty. I transported it home on an open bed truck and while refueling an older gentleman came over to take a look. We talked about my rust issue and he suggested that I use a side grinder with a stiff bristle wire brush. After going over the top several times it came pretty clean. Then he suggested that I apply (Minwax)paste floor wax (thick) and go after it with the wire brush again making sure that I was heating the surface. This process turned the surface a dark almost black color which I think is pretty on this old saw.

That was 20 years ago and I have never had an issue with rust since and I have used it many times to rough out green wood. I just make sure that I don't leave wet sawdust on the surface.

[Alan Lightstone]

Light rust - Barkeeper's Friend and scotch brite pads or 0000 steel wool works well. Followed by either Johnson's Paste Wax or CRC 3-36 (Amazon.com is your friend). Recent FWW test liked that the best, and I agree - it works quite well. FWW said that wax was pretty useless at preventing rust. Nice lubricant, though for planes.

Very disappointed in Boeshield. Sticky residue, and not great at preventing rust.

[Tom M King]

After that article, I bought some 3-36 to try for myself, and haven't used anything else since. I keep a can sitting out in the shop with a straw in it all the time. no rust since.

[Mark Andrew]

If it's very light, Bar Keepers Friend (but only because I can't find Solvol Autosol any more). If it's a little worse, a green scotchbrite pad under a cheap ROS with WD40 for lube. Evaporust for worse rust, but it does fill the pits with black oxide.

To keep it free of rust, a very liberal coating of Boeshield T-9, buffed when dry. Then a coat of yellow floor wax. That usually works for a year or so, until I see fingerprints on the machines.

Keep salts and acids out of the shop, or at least in an airtight container.

[Jim Foster]

The best way I've found to eliminate rusting is to control relative humidity, keep it under 53% or so and rust will not "bloom." I have not had any issue in 5 or 6 years since I started using an automatic humidifier (it's a store bought unit with "low," "medium," and "high" type settings. It tends to kick on when the humidity gets over the high 40's. To run continuously, I run a drain hose under the garage door in the summer. My shop is a 2nd story loft over the garage, with an open stairway.

[Michael Yadfar]

Issue with me is I may end up working out of my wooden shed. I'm trying to get space in my garage with isn't temperature controlled, but insulated. Pending on cost, insulating my shed and upgrading doors/windows may be considered. But my machines would be used regularly so pretty much if I can just keep rust off my cast iron table tops I should be good. I plan to only be where I am for a few more years, and in the meantime need a hobby, so that's why I'm not heavily investing in shop space. Good thing though is I'm not in like some subtropical climate, and I don't own top of the line equipment.

[Jim Foster]

Not sure about PA, but in Upstate NY and MA there are several weeks a year where humidity goes "tropical" and rust will bloom quickly. A friend of mine with a large loft shop that is unheated and not insulated cut out pieces of plywood to leave on his cast iron surfaces. He swears by them, and says he gets no rust during the year.


Issue with me is I may end up working out of my wooden shed. I'm trying to get space in my garage with isn't temperature controlled, but insulated. Pending on cost, insulating my shed and upgrading doors/windows may be considered. But my machines would be used regularly so pretty much if I can just keep rust off my cast iron table tops I should be good. I plan to only be where I am for a few more years, and in the meantime need a hobby, so that's why I'm not heavily investing in shop space. Good thing though is I'm not in like some subtropical climate, and I don't own top of the line equipment.

[Tai Fu]

For storage of machines nothing beats cosmoline... it is used to protect machines from rust during transoceanic voyages.

I admit its hard to keep rust at bay in Taiwan and nobody sells boeshield T9 here. Not sure what naval jelly is but if it's just Phosphoric acid I can just get the raw chemical and use that.

I'll have to cosmoline my machines when I leave Taiwan and store them...

[jim hedgpeth]

Removal depends on what its on and how bad, to some degree, obviously your methods would be different for a plane vs a large surface like a table saw top.


As far a prevention, I use Johnson's paste wax with good results. My shop is not heated, or dehumidified, and it has worked so far.
I had heard Johnson's is the most common one without silicone in it. Silicone on any wood you plan to apply a finish to is bad mojo, or so I've heard, I just keep it away from my wood so I don't have to find out the bad way.

That reminds me, I need to put wax on my list, I'm about out.

Jim

[Jim Matthews]

My bandsaw is out in my garage, where I could get 220 power from a subpanel.

It also makes getting manipulating large boards easy.
I use Bostik TopCote on the exposed castings.

I'm in coastal Massachusetts, and it's plenty humid.
No rust, in four years.

http://www.bostik-us.com/files/tdsfiles/TopCote.pdf

[scott spencer]

Every time I think I've got the answer, someone leaves our garage door open in January, and snow blows in and leaves a fine mist on my cast iron.... eventually it rusts no matter what treatment I've used. For a long time I thought a light coat of Boeshield T-9, followed by paste wax was best....and it might be, but once moisture makes direct contact, nothing stops the rust totally. A full breathable cover that stops the moisture from ever contacting the cast iron is your best bet....otherwise you'll be maintaining the surfaces eventually.

[Jacob Reverb]

This time of year, in this coastal region, I'd get rust almost daily in my unheated shop.

To remove rust, I use steel wool wetted with kerosene or mineral spirits and a little oil.

To keep the rust at bay, I wipe the CI tables with a mix of about 2/3 drain oil and 1/3 kero. When I want to use the machines again, I wipe off the oil with a rag or a handful of sawdust. Ain't pretty but it works great and the oil is free.

I've also found when oiling the tables that if I make a slurry of baby powder, oil and mineral spirits, the talcum powder helps fill the pores in the cast iron, which means the CI has less surface area to collect condensation and rust.

Wax never worked for me, and it made me hinky about getting it on raw wood and possibly fouling up the finish.