Re-ebonizing Stanley knobs

[Daniel Rode]

I finally found a router plane. It's appears to be in great shape for a user plane. The knobs are intact with no splits but the ebony finish is pretty beat up. I think the ebony handles were just pained. I've never tried to refinish any plane knob or tote, so I'm a complete newbie. Any tips on making them smooth and black again?

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[Sean Hughto]

That there is PATINA, boooyee. Hit it with some steel wool to knock off anything loose and then some BLO. They'll be perfect!

[Daniel Rode]

I'm good with keeping the handles cosmetically as they are. I just want to protect them so the last another few decades. Sounds like an investment of a quarter hour and a quarter dollar :)

That there is PATINA, boooyee. Hit it with some steel wool to knock off anything loose and then some BLO. They'll be perfect!

[Judson Green]

Looks good! Sure do like my 71½. Welcome to router world!

[Joe Bailey]

I know of this plane. You cost me 20.00. About a year ago I bet a friend that no one would pay 80.00 for a 71 1/2 with no box and ebonized handles.

[Jim Koepke]

Daniel,

Do you have a way of making this knob spin as in a lathe or drill press?

Some people like to get back to the wood and finish it with stain and a clear coat.

Otherwise just clean to your comfort level and have fun with it.

jtk

[phil harold]

Rust-Oleum should do the trick

[Andrew Pitonyak]

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/ebonizing_wood

Is that really ebonized, or just painted? I never gave it a thought before. I assume that if you choose to ebonize, you will need to clean it up first.

[Daniel Rode]

A year ago, I would have taken that bet as well. With 2 cutters, I think it's worth $50, maybe $60. I've been looking for months and couldn't find anything that didn't need major rehab in that range.

I know of this plane. You cost me 20.00. About a year ago I bet a friend that no one would pay 80.00 for a 71 1/2 with no box and ebonized handles.

[Joe Bailey]

I've been looking for months and couldn't find anything that didn't need major rehab in that range.

Perfectly understandable, and it is in nice shape.

I have a few examples of ebonized handled Stanley tools and the grain is not visible in any of them -- this leads me to believe that they are not truly ebonized but rather painted as some others have pointed out. Your best bet may be to strip and repaint with matte or flat black paint.

My only other idea is to try re-emulsify the existing finish and spread it around so as to cover the bare spots. If it fails, you can then proceed to strip and refinish.

[Daniel Rode]

I think you are right. From the little research I've done so far, they may be refered to as "ebonized" knobs but I think they were simply painted black. I think paint is on the surface and would scratch and chip like the picture shows. Ebonizing is done with stain and/or dye with a a clear topcoat and would wear differently.

I have a few examples of ebonized handled Stanley tools and the grain is not visible in any of them --
this leads me to believe that they are not truly ebonized but rather painted as some others have pointed out.

[Pat Barry]

I think you are right. From the little research I've done so far, they may be refered to as "ebonized" knobs but I think they were simply painted black. I think paint is on the surface and would scratch and chip like the picture shows. Ebonizing is done with stain and/or dye with a a clear topcoat and would wear differently.
Definitely painted black.

[Mike Brady]

Ya, like this:
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee300/finefettle/Assorted005.jpg (http://s234.photobucket.com/user/finefettle/media/Assorted005.jpg.html)These are original finishes and the black is just enamel or lacquer. Wartime and post-war era.

[Daniel Rode]

Yup. Just like that. I know it's weird coming from a woodworker, but I actually like the black knobs. I wonder what paint they used.