please recommend a hacksaw

[Paul Saffold]

The one I have is tensioned with a wing-nut and it bottoms out before there is enough tension. Can't cut straight. It doesn't have to be exotic just looking for ideas for a simple tool that works.
Thanks.
Paul

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

I have the bright yellow Starrett hacksaw. I like it a lot, although it is a bit on the heavy side, it's balanced well and works with more of a variety of grips than you'd expect.

[Steve Voigt]

I like the Lenox 4012. Made in USA. A great saw.
If you have a local Airgas store, you might check there--my local store was selling them for $25, because no one in the trades is buying hacksaws anymore. Younger electricians/welders/etc don't know what to do with a saw that doesn't have a battery.
What ever you get, make sure it's a real high-tension saw. There is just no comparison between this type of saw and the cheapo hacksaws.

[Joe Bailey]

And here is one possible source:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-LENOX-Hacksaw-Frame-4012-Hand-SAW-with-Blade-29018-/221070149360

disclaimer: I have no affiliation/interest/connection with this seller

[Paul Saffold]

Thanks for the suggestions. Looks like Lowe's carries the Lenox for $25 in store.

[David Weaver]

I like the Lenox 4012. Made in USA. A great saw.
If you have a local Airgas store, you might check there--my local store was selling them for $25, because no one in the trades is buying hacksaws anymore. Younger electricians/welders/etc don't know what to do with a saw that doesn't have a battery.
What ever you get, make sure it's a real high-tension saw. There is just no comparison between this type of saw and the cheapo hacksaws.

I have the same saw. Great saw. I've cut a lot of tool steel with it. It goes where you point it, even under a heavy/fast cut.

[Winton Applegate]

I have many hacksaws, some I bought as a kid, inherited my Dad's etc.
No question though; this is a great saw
http://www.cesco.com/b2c/product/39011?gdftrk=gdfV25445_a_7c1847_a_7c7081_a_7c39011&gclid=CKXYlOuX4bwCFeg-MgodWm4AEQ
I have four at home and at work. I have one for each blade so I don't have to change out but just grab the one I need.
14 t, 18 t, 24 t, and 32 t
I relax the tension on the saws at the end of the day.
Not sure if this is needed but has been my habit for more than twenty years.

I put five turns on the saw lever. It says on the saw the max (I think it is six turns but not sure with out going down to the shop to look).
A welding supply shop usually stocks them. I looked on Amazon and they have some with more do das and plastic and are different from the link I am posting here. Mine are all steel and aluminum very similar to my link and feel like a serious pro tool; nothing chintzy or second rate. I hope they are still as good.

I never had a moments problem and can't think of any thing I would change.
With a high tension saw, a 14 t blade and some regular use to keep sawing fit
and a low vise so you can get your legs into it . . .
it is not that big a deal to cut one inch solid mild steel bar stock.
How's that for a difference over the wimpy saws ?

Now if I have several to cut like that I have a power, horizontal, cut off bandsaw with an automatic shut off. Just set it and walk away. It will saw through a whole stack of bars or an I beam and then shut its self off.

I have what is generally called a Porta band too. Which is a hand held bandsaw. Worth looking up or renting one to see just how much fun you can have. Mine is a deep throat Milwaukee and it is one of the loves of my life but anyway . . .

I still use the hell out of the Lenox high tension hacksaws and highly recommend them.
The bi-metal Lenox brand blades are TOTALLY, TOTALLY worth it so stock up on those as well.

[Winton Applegate]

Oops.
Looks like I came to the party after about every body went home.
Oh well.
At least there is some thing we all agree on.
No for a change I won't be the contrary and say put the blade in backwards so it cuts on the pull stroke.
Push is good.

[Steve Voigt]

Oops.
Looks like I came to the party after about every body went home.
Oh well.
At least there is some thing we all agree on.
No for a change I won't be the contrary and say put the blade in backwards so it cuts on the pull stroke.
Push is good.

No worries, it's always good to get confirmation. I like the thing about having four saws with different tpi's; that's pretty extreme, but cool.
You obviously do commercial metalworking. I still remember the first time, when I was working in the machine shop, I saw a dude grab a piece of stock that was too awkwardly shaped to cut on the cold saw, and blast through it in about 30 seconds with the Lenox. I was pretty impressed. One of the things he taught me was to take good strokes, meaning about 11 7/8" out of a 12" blade, not too fast so you don't work harden the material, and a LOT of down pressure.
Just like milling steel, really. Low rpm, big bite.

[David Weaver]

That's funny. I can't remember what caused me to get that saw, I think it's because a buddy showed me a snap on saw that cost double or more, and told me to make sure I had a saw of that design (actually, like many loyal snap on fans, he said "you have to get the snap on one"). The lenox was the closest thing at the borg.

And like winton says, the blades are good. They're so good compared to the other things the borg has that I'm sure that borg will figure that out and get rid of them.

If you're cutting steel or doing anything remotely abusive, they will pay for themselves many times over.

[Winton Applegate]

saws with different tpi's; that's pretty extreme,

I'm an extreme kind of guy.

Ha, ha, ha
not really

It is just that in one hour I usually am cutting through thickish aluminum and need the 14 t and
then through a chrome molly tube that is a millimeter wall thickness and that would strip some of the teeth out of the 14, if I could even get it to cut right so I need a 32 t for the cro/mo that and a 32 would NEVER cut through the alu it would just load up the blade and give me a good work out but no production.

Stainless screws like the 24t and I probably use the 18 the most so there you are.

[Winton Applegate]

PS: My first "high tension" hack saw that I bought as a kid I had to keep replacing the tension bolt with all thread and a nut or some such, I don't remember now, but I would wear out the threads changing blades all the time.

Plus the main bar of the frame was a round, probably mild steel tube and didn't hold much tension. The Lenox is a rectangular tube to help resist bowing and I bet it is better alloy steel with a higher modulus of elasticity than the round one.

[george wilson]

I like my railroad rail hacksaw. It has an 8" throat,and is the most rigid hacksaw I have ever seen. I'm also very pleased with my Lancashire pattern 1835 hacksaw. One of the most beautiful and functional saws ever made.

[Paul Saffold]

Any pictures, George? It would be nice to see them.
Paul

[Derek Cohen]

I have this Dewalt. It has been pretty decent, able to tension the blade well, comfortable to hold, and solid ..

http://media.midwayusa.com/productimages/880x660/Primary/330/330071.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Koepke]

This is what I use:

283107

The low profile is useful in tight spots, though it isn't deep enough to cut a rail track.

jtk

[Tom Blank]

The Lenox is a great saw, even better with Starrett bi-metal blades.

TB