1971Powermatic 60 Jointer

[Nate Conley]

I have an opportunity to buy a 1971 Powermatic 60 Jointer, it's the nice green one with the white racing stripe and has the 50th anniversary stamp on it. But, I and have a few questions on somethings I noticed with the condition and wondered if these are quick fixes or not. I am not excited for a restoration project, but the cost of this 8 inch jointer is priced well and may be worth putting a little time in it.

First, it is a 3 phase so that will have to be addressed. I think I'm going to buy a new single phase motor as I am limited in shop space and do not have other 3 phase equipment. Are there any single phase motors (brand and model) that work perticularly well with this machine?

Second, I noticed the infeed table has some varnish or some type of finish that was spilled on it. It's a brownish/yellowish clear looking finish that has made it uneven in that spot when you run a straight edge over it. The size is pretty big, covers the first 6 inches of the infeed table. Is there stripper or a way to remove that? Any stripper I should not use so I do not ruin the table? Other than that, the table looked great.

It is a three knife cutterhead. The knives need to be replaced, which is not that big of an issue. But what is concerning was the fact I could not spin the cutterhead by hand. Is this generally a matter of getting new bearings? What's the hassle in that?

The fence slid nicely, but it was missing the lock nut to keep the angle. Any idea where I can find that little guy?

Thanks,

Nate

[Mark Wooden]

There are many single phase motors on the market that will work well on that jointer, just be sure to match the rpm and it should be 1-1/2 to 2 hp. Baldor and Leeson are both OEM's for that machine. You can use a VFD, but variable speed is of no use on a jointer so you're just phase converting for about the same cost as a 1ph motor.

You can use a hair dryer or heat gun (NOT a torch) to soften whatever is spilled on the table and scrape it off with a razor blade scraper, then scotchbrite and thinner. Don't try stripper right away as some types can stain or even pit cast iron. Wax the tables after you've cleaned them.

Has the machine been stored outside or in a damp place? Are you trying to turn the head and the motor? Take the belt off and then try to move things. In any case, bearings on that machine are easy and not real expensive.

The US made PM60 is a very good 8" jointer, if you think the price is right, grab it.

[Matt Day]

^ exactly what he said ^

make sure to figure out why the cutterhead isn't moving. If the motor is seized or bearings are seized, either way it could help you negotiate with the seller and you'll know what you'll need to fix. Research how to replace the bearings so you know what yours in for since you should probably do it anyway, unless the head spins like a top without the belt attached.

[Nate Conley]

Thanks guys!

The machine has been stored inside. It's from a school and they have not used this particular jointer for at least two years, maybe even longer. They are getting a lot more equipment soon and need to get rid of pieces. The jointer was by far the nicest piece.

I will try the blow dryer and razor technique. I was weary of stripper and thanks for confirming that approach.

I had a duh moment when you said to remove the belt to spin the cutterhead.

I was going to pick it up yesterday but the guy did not have a power source available to show me it actually running. But by Friday it will.

What other advice do you have for checking this machine?

Current price is $300. I can't seem to find a reason why this would be a bad buy.

-Nate

[Matt Meiser]

Go buy it now for that price if nothing is broken. Since you plan to swap the motor you don't care if it runs. Motor swap on a jointer is easy and you can run a bigger or smaller pulley to accommodate if the RPM is different. You'll need a new switch most likely.

There's a decent chance the fence will have some warp My model 50 did. The far corners were warped to the back but it worked just fine at the cutter head.

The 50 used a common bearing that was inexpensive. Swapping bearings was easy and I don't think I even needed a press but I don't recall 100%.

[Mark Wooden]

Matt, the manual I have for a PM50 has instructions on how to straighten a bowed fence-

Straightening Warped Fence:

The fence furnished with your jointer is a finished casting. Under certain conditions it is possible that the fence may become warped. If fence is high (bowed) in the center, remove fence and place face up on the floor on two 4" pieces of wood (2" x 4" blocks will suffice). Gently apply pressure to the center of the fence with your foot increasing pressure gradually until you feel the fence " give" slightly. Stop applying pressure as soon as you feel the fence " give" and check with a straight edge. The fence should be perfectly straight. Repeat if necessary.
If fence is low in the center, place on the floor face down and repeat the above procedure - REMEMBER, stop when you feel the fence " give"

Should your fence be twisted , the following steps will return it to its original shape. Clamp one end of fence to a wood vise and sandwich other end between two 2" boards and gently " twist" the fence. When the fence " gives" stop applying pressure and check fence with a straight edge.

[keith micinski]

Wait a minute, all these years people have been saying there is nothing like old iron and out of the box they are telling you that you might have to take your fence off and stomp a mud hole in it to get it straightened out?:D

[Myk Rian]

An 8" jointer for $300? Buy it, no matter what. I got a 1976 Rockwell 8" last month for that. Needs some work, but I expected that.
Going through it to check it out will teach you a lot about the way they work.
A good 1hp motor will power it, but 1.5 - 2hp is better.

[Nate Conley]

Thanks for the feedback guys.

I actually would not have thought the fence on those things could be warped.

As for the motor, I'm going to try and replace it with a similar one, to make the installation simple. After reading what Matt said, it sounds like I should add a new switch to the list. Why so? Does it have something to do with the wiring?

As for the cutterhead knives. What's your thoughts on simply buying new knives vs looking at throughing a helical cutterhead in there? If I went the helical cutterhead, would that have any impact on what motor I should look at? I will post pictures on Friday when I get it.

-Nate

[Matt Meiser]

It will most likely have a magnetic starter which will have a coil and overloads sized for whatever three phase voltage it ran on. Easier to just replace the switch.

[Myk Rian]

Easier to just replace the switch.
Like this one.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006SJK2G4/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Mark Wooden]

Wait a minute, all these years people have been saying there is nothing like old iron and out of the box they are telling you that you might have to take your fence off and stomp a mud hole in it to get it straightened out?:D

Well, that's better than being told that a 1/16" bow across the fence is "within tolerance" .
And ,they did say 'gentle' pressure, not 'stomp on it' ;)