Resawing Question

[Glenn Samuels]

I have 3 mahogany boards that are currently 8/4 each. I want to split each one into 4/4 before bringing them to final thickness. I am not sure which step should come first.

1. Plane one wide surface and then run through the bandsaw. Then give it a few days to move.
2. Leaving it in the rough state and running it through the bandsaw. Then let it sit for a few days.

[Jim Koepke]

The surface that will be against the bandsaw table is the only one that need be trued before resawing.

If it is thin stock then my procedure is to work all sides before resawing leaving only the cut surface to be worked after the bandsaw.

jtk

[David Weaver]

Ditto, depending on how rough it is, and how you're feeding it (freehand, vs. against a resaw fence or resaw bar), you may only need to joint an edge square on it, mark an end and make sure it sits square on your bandsaw.

[Rob Damon]

Regardless of the resawing operation, you are still going to have to mill the rough surfaces on the four outside surfaces. You are also going to end up with two internal surfaces that need to be milled from the resawing operation. I would rather mill all at one time and then let it set and final mill it a few days later. Even kiln dryed wood that has sat for years will move after resawing depending on the grain direction of the wood (quartersawn less, flat sawn more).

Rob

[Sean Hughto]

It kind of depends on the details of how you intend to proceed as faras tools and process. Here's how I would realistically proceed in my shop assuming the boards are less than 12" wide. I would flatten one side of each board with my hand planes. They don't have to be perfect and pretty, just stable and flat when placed face down on your bench, for example. Then I'd run them trhough my lunch box planer to make the opposite side flat and parallel. Then I'd use my tablesaw or handplanes to joint one long edge - the edge that will be riding on the bandsaw table during resawing. I would then use a wheel gauge - running it on both sides to find the middle line and go over than with a pencil for easy view during resawing. Then I would set up my bandsaw fence or point fence - whatever you like and slowly resaw so that there is plenty of time for chip clearance and no blade bowing. After letting them set a bit to move if they like, if the flattened side was still flat, I'd run the board through the lunchbox with the bandsaw face up to make it flat and clean - - but if there was any warping, get out the planes again and flatten at least one side before letting the lunchbox clean things up.

If the boards were too wide, I'd use handplanes from start to finish and the pre-resawing flattening wouldn't be necessary except the one jointed edge for the bandsaw table.

[Prashun Patel]

I would at least flatten one face and joint one adjacent edge square if the piece is wide. Otherwise, it can be hard to push through a square cut on the bandsaw. Nice thing is if you are planning to join the boards bookmatched, then jointing the edge beforehand provides a nice gluable joint line.

Yes, after resawing, you'll have to give it a little time to do what it wants.

[Dave Anderson NH]

I would strongly encourage using Sean's procedure step by step. It's safe, efficient, and gives you the best chance of getting to where you want to be.

[Glenn Samuels]

This information is invaluable to me and I want to thank everyone that posted.