Laying out the new shop...

[Drew Pavlak]

Hey All,

It is getting close to the time when I will be moving my tools into my new shop and I would love to get your opinion of my layout. Keep in mind that this isn't 100% to scale, nor is it set in stone. There are a couple of unknowns that I am still working on getting straightened out. For starters, the overhead radiant tube heater, I marked it where I think it is going to be placed, but that may change slightly. obviously there are minimum requirements for how close I can put stuff near it and that will determine actual placement. I made this in Visio, so not all the piping has the correct bends in it, I will make sure that they have the correct elbows and what not so that there are no 90 degree bends in the pipe.

I guess what I am mainly looking for is in the pipe runs and placement of the machines. I know for better dust collection it is more important to have certain machines closer to the DC than others. Just wondering how I did. Shop is roughly 30' X 30'.

Thanks,
Drew

282908

[Ted Calver]

No help on machine placement. Do you have, or plan on having a compressor? Is the DC closet big enough for one?

[Drew Pavlak]

Compressor will be on the auto shop side of the barn. I will plumb it through the wall somewhere. I also have a pancake compressor if need be. Thanks though.

[Jeff Erbele]

Given the location of the lumber rack and outdoor storage, it appears the jointer is setting backwards (if the fence is closest to the router table & miter saw). If I am looking at your drawing correctly, I would swap the planer location with the jointer primarily for work flow. Further the jointer is going to produce far more debris and will be closer to the DC.

Given the machines shown, the Shop Smith probably will not be used as a saw and does not need an out-feed space; unless you use its 12” disc sander for long stock. In that case, being on retractable wheels, you could easily move it away from the wall or turn it 90 degrees. The concern then is a flexible drop from the DC, one long enough to reach the SS alternate working location.

Maybe the table saw should be moved towards the work bench; the reason being is out-feed must equal out-feed. It all depends on how close the TS is to the wall with the window and the longest piece of stock you will work with. The part that matters right now is installing the DC ducting in the right places.

Miter Saw – proximity to the DC closet. Consider the space between the MS and the DC wall for most or all stock lengths.

Overall it appears as a good working shop with a nice layout, and nice work on the Viso schematic.

Only you can decide if my thoughts apply to your needs. Use what makes sense and disregard the rest.

[Drew Pavlak]

ShopSmith will be mostly a lathe, But that is a very helpful suggestion on the retractable wheels. My uncle is giving it to me as he no longer uses it.

Not sure I quite understand the
out-feed must equal out-feed sorry. My intention here is to build an outfeed and assembly table, there may be some room to move it closer to the workbench, it will all depend on where I bring the ducting down. My original thought was at the end of the out feed table. I really don't see my self working with pieces longer than 8' to 10' long. just too much waste and too hard to work with. I moved some things around, doesn't change my piping at all, but it might be a little more workable, and gets me a DC drop at the workbench.

One thing I have to work around is the heater, it is a SpaceRay Radiant Tube heater and hangs from the ceiling. On the latest visio drawing, it appears that it is under the table saw, but it would hang above it. Also I could combine the tables of the mitersaw and radial arm saw. DC for router table would be incorporated into the TS out-feed table. Not sure I like the placement of the Jointer, maybe swap it out with the workbench. Anyway, open to suggestions.

Unfortunately I haven't figured out how to get the grid line to show up on the PDF when it is converted. It is close to scale, but not perfect.
Drew.

283273

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Drew, a couple things I'd consider if it was my shop. I have a few of those heaters, they put out a lot of heat. Standing under one can be unpleasant at times, especially when you are working. I don't know how you use your workbench, but if you use it like I do, there is a fair amount of sweat that is shed there and it's not an area that needs to be hot. I'd swap it and the shopsmith. That also gives you a nice corner of the building for assembly areas. Lathes can be very close to a wall, so you'd gain some room to move between your table saw and that wall too.

Not sure if you intend to run the ducts over the middle of the room as shown, but in case, I'd put as much of it as possible on a wall. They are a pain to work around with long boards if above the work space.

[Jeff Erbele]

ShopSmith will be mostly a lathe, But that is a very helpful suggestion on the retractable wheels. My uncle is giving it to me as he no longer uses it.

Not sure I quite understand the sorry. My intention here is to build an outfeed and assembly table, there may be some room to move it closer to the workbench, it will all depend on where I bring the ducting down. My original thought was at the end of the out feed table. I really don't see my self working with pieces longer than 8' to 10' long. just too much waste and too hard to work with. I moved some things around, doesn't change my piping at all, but it might be a little more workable, and gets me a DC drop at the workbench.

One thing I have to work around is the heater, it is a SpaceRay Radiant Tube heater and hangs from the ceiling. On the latest visio drawing, it appears that it is under the table saw, but it would hang above it. Also I could combine the tables of the mitersaw and radial arm saw. DC for router table would be incorporated into the TS out-feed table. Not sure I like the placement of the Jointer, maybe swap it out with the workbench. Anyway, open to suggestions.

Unfortunately I haven't figured out how to get the grid line to show up on the PDF when it is converted. It is close to scale, but not perfect.
Drew.

283273

What I meant by in-feed must equal out-feed, is if you have a say 8 ft piece of stock going into the table saw, you need the same amount of space for the out-feed. In the first sketch if appeared like the TS was rather close to the wall. Its your shop and your call. My suggestion was only intended to prevent having to relocate the duct work later.

I have a Shop Smith Mark V, about a 1983 model. Previously I had a 1979 model. At least that far back and since they have built in retractable wheels, a pair on each end, operated by a rotating foot pedal / cam device. You step on it twice, each lower the wheels and raising the machine for mobility. The third time you step on it, the wheels retract and the machine drops back on its stationary feet. It is a handy feature, but I don't care to just step on the pedal and drop the machine. I grab the rotating accessory handle, carrying some of the weight and ease it down gently. There is one of those on each end and they are used to secure any accessories or the table extension.

The older Shop Smith's, I think model 10ER and perhaps others did not even have a stand much less wheels. Owners either built their own or set them on shop benches or tables.

The table saw is perhaps not Shop Smith's best feature. Given the machines you are showing, you probably won't use the SS TS much or at all.
One unique feature the TS provides is if you miter a cut by tipping the table to any given angle and want to sand that cut, you can replace the saw blade with the 12" disc sander and maintain the identical angle.

The little turning I did with it was a long time ago, but for my needs it worked OK for my lathe needs. I do remember that I wished I had a live center. Later when I get shop set-up, I'll buy one and maybe a chuck or two for holding work pieces. In my opinion its strongest feature is drilling and horizontal boring. You can drill dowel holes in the end of stock accurately no matter how long it is and you can repeat the same location on multiple pieces.

I am not familiar with your radiant heater.

Personally I like your basic setup and drool over the space.

[Drew Pavlak]

Jeff - I am pretty sure the Shop Smith that my uncle has was purchased in the 90's. Wouldn't swear by it, I only looked at it once, but I think it is light grey in color, not the darker grey model. Figured if he was just going to give it to me I could use it for something. I am hoping it is the newer model with the electronic controls (Mark VII?), that looks that have some redesign done to it to make it a little more usable.

The radiant heaters we purchased are going to be really nice, need to get the drywall up so that I can get them hung in the barn. Been a little cold in there at times this winter (-10 degrees or so). Then I can finally get to work on getting the shop set up. All this snow, I have been too busy playing with my kids skiing. :D Family activity.

Steve - Not too worried about the piping on the ceiling, I have 12' ceilings and will run the piping as tight to the ceiling as possible, that way I can hang my light by chains and hopefully not have to deal with too many shadows from the piping. My father-in-law has an auto shop with 14' ceilings and 75K btu radiant tube heaters, never had too much of a problem getting "cooked" under them when they kick on. Hopefully mine will be the same, they will be about 11' off the concrete and only 50K btu. I appreciate the advice though. I am really looking forward to 1. having a heat source and 2. It not being forced air.

The space is really going to be nice, if I can keep it clean. ;) The other 30' X 30' area of the barn is going to be an auto shop, with above ground lift. (Yes that was a little bit of a gloat, sorry couldn't resist.) Lift will be purchased at a later date, but hopefully not too much later. Place is a real mess right now as we have been insulating and getting the drywall completed. Once I get some of that done I will try to get some pics up.

Thanks for all the responses though, helps me think through what I am trying to do.
Drew

[Jamie Buxton]

I'd trade out either the miter saw or the radial arm saw for a bandsaw. Heck, I'd trade out both of 'em for a good big bandsaw.

[Drew Pavlak]

Jamie - I agree with you and at some point I will probably get rid of the RAS (not my favorite tool). With purchasing the barn and a clearvue cyclone, if a bandsaw showed up at the house, I will need a bullet proof vest. :) I would love a good bandsaw. I have a Delta small little 9" or 10" one that I can clamp to a work surface and I will have to get by with that for now. Hopefully in the future one will mysteriously show up. After the wife get used to me not being in the house so much. :D