Smoothing with a #5?

[Tom Jones III]

I have discovered that there is a way to smooth out a table top when the top is too large to fit through your power planer!!! I'm trying to learn this skill and so far, so good. I picked up a Record #5, real cheap, several years ago and put it away b/c I didn't know how to use it. Well, I've tuned it up and am learning to use it. I bought a scraper and managed to use the #5 and scraper to smooth out a table top that I will use as a scroll saw table in the shop.

From my experimentation, it seems like I need a shorter plane to get the table top to be furniture quality smooth. I will need this skill for my next project, a federal style pembroke table. Funds are tight right now so a LN or LV #4 or #4 1/2 is out of the question. In your opinion, would a new Stanley #4 get the job done, or should I just use the #5 and then belt sand it absolutely smooth? I would look for a used #4, but don't know where to look in the Houston area.

[Mike Weaver]

Hi,
There are any number of reputable dealers that work over the wires from which you can get a great used #4.

One of whom is Patrick Leach - http://www.supertool.com/

He is a standup guy and one of the best dealers with whom I've dealt.

-Mike<img>

PS - a good used beats a new Stanley BY FAR.

[Wendell Wilkerson]

Are you looking to smooth the top or flatten the top? For flattening, you want a longer plane to spans the hills and valleys and flatten the hills. For smoothing, the shorter plane rides the hills and valleys.

I would recommend vintage over new. I've found Texas to be old tool H*LL so I've bought most of my tools off Ebay. I recently bought a #7 from Walt Quadrato at Brass City Tool Works. It was ready to use straight from Walt.
Here's his website:

http://pages.cthome.net/bcrgraphics/toolindex.html

I am sure he can help you out. Standard disclaimer applies (no affiliation other than satisfied customer).

Good Luck,

Wendell

[Jerry Palmer]

Best I've been able to find in my searches throughout Central Texas, and some out east, are a few old saws.

A #3 or #4-4 1/2 are good sizes for smoothing, as stated above, getting a finish ready surface on wood without sanding. I've bought several items from Walt Q and highly recommend him. My purchases from him have been a bit more exotic than everyday bench planes, but he has very fair prices on tools which he minimally refurbishes (a man after my own heart).

There are also a few others over at Woodnet who do full blown refurbishments of old Stanley bench planes, incuding rejapaning them. A bit more costly but not yet into the LN or even LV price range.

[Tom Jones III]

I'm looking for smoothing. I'll use my power jointer and planer to get the boards glued up into a tabletop. On this learning piece I then used the #5 and scraper to get the top a little flatter and a little smoother. The work done to flatten it is only flattening the tiny amount of warp from the glue up. I'm not satisfied with the smoothness of the learning piece. The flatness I acheived with the #5 is fine.

Thanks for the internet links, I feel much better buying from someone who is recommended.

[Jerry Palmer]

Cutter sharpness has a lot to do with the smoothness you can get. A really sharp iron will allow you to get into the range of .001 inch thick shavings. That is the goal for a good smoother. A thicker aftermarket iron is also helpful. If you're working with really knarly woods (I do some stuff with mesquite, and that is some tough stuff to smooth) then a higher bed angle for the plane (50 to 55 degrees) is helpful also.

I use a smoother on edges to be joined after I get them flat and straight on the tailed jointer. It take two or three swipes with the smoother before I get full length/full width shavings as the little bitty humps left by the tailed jointer have to be shaved off first.

[Peter Mc Mahon]

Hi Tom. If your #5 isn't giving you ideal results when smoothing then something needs correcting. A 5 will smooth as well as a 4 if the wood is flat. For that matter a #8 will smooth as well as a #4 or #1 if the wood is flat. If funds are tight then take this opportunity to refine your planning techniques. Get a good straight edge and some winding sticks. When your top is flat, smooth away. I have taken rough boards and used a scrub plane followed by my #8 and that was it. No ridges, no gouges, nothing. My #4 1/2 could not have done any better of a job- because the board was flat. I wouldn't normally try so hard to make the board perfectly flat [hence the reason behind using a smoother- it is short enough to follow irregularities] it was just luck that it came out that way. Peter

[Tom Jones III]

Thanks, that is good info.