Constructing a backyard gate

[Vince Shriver]

I want to make a gate using redwood planks, either tongue and groove (t & g) or just glued up on edge with dowels for alignment. I have no idea how to deal with seasonal wood movement. I assume that if I do the t & G that each board should be glued together as a single panel. Before I start something and screw it up, I'd really like to get a little advice. Thanks, Vince

[Gary Kman]

The classic "Z" braced gate addresses all of the forces a gate needs to resist. A tongue and groove will bind when wet and is apt to break one side of the groove eventually. Ship lapped boards don't suffer this problem.

How long has this design been working?

[Peter Quinn]

My advice, ......buy a used paperback copy of this book......http://www.amazon.com/Building-Doors-Gates-Instructions-Techniques/dp/0811726789. Good place to start.

[Rich Engelhardt]

The classic "Z" braced gate addresses all of the forces a gate needs to resistYep - only other thing you really need then is ring shank nails.... ;).

Actually - Home Depot carries a slick gate hardware kit.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Adjust-A-Gate-3-Rail-Gate-Frame-Kit-Adjusts-60-96-in-by-60-in-AG60-3/202024402

[John Downey]

I would go for a Z gate too, no glue.

If you live anywhere in the dry southwest, it might be worth modifying the traditional design. Reversing the diagonal brace orientation causes it to pull the boards together as they shrink in dry conditions, limiting the gate's sag.

When I lived in Tucson, our backyard had two gates, one with the brace going the "right" way and one with the brace going the "wrong" way, according to the book thinking. The "right" one always sagged, the other did not. I don't recall this being a consideration anywhere but the dry desert though.

[Bill Huber]

One thing you want to think about is if the gate is solid then the wind can not get though and will put pressure on it.

For the brace on the gate the EZ Brace is a really easy one to install and they work very well.
http://www.amazon.com/EZ-Brace-Anti-Sag-Gate/dp/B0041XVV1O

http://www.ezbrace.com/

[Andy Pratt]

another vote for the Z or "X in a box" design

Shiplap or T&G would work but definitely don't glue one board to another or you will defeat the purpose. The purpose of the overlapping areas in the two is to let the boards move without showing see-through cracks between them. Shiplap is probably preferred since it would trap less moisture. If you have 6-8" boards for the field and they aren't fastened to each other then you probably don't have to worry too much about major issues from wood movement. If you have a nice looking way to protect the end grain that is facing up and keep the end grain that is facing down from setting on wet wood/ground then you are another step ahead in warding off severe wood movement issues.