Vari-Grind Jig....

[David Coburn]

Hello again...


Quick update on the Nova 1624-44... I simply love it... My only complaint so far would be that the length of the bed is such that I have to remove the tail stock sometimes to get my chisel at the angle that I want...

On to sharpening... I thought I would describe my continuing evolution... I got a Wolverine and it does just fine on my scrapers and my flat faced Spindle gouges... but it didn't do so well on my new, but now much shorter, 1/2" bowl gouge... So I bought a Vari-Grind jig and went through, what I expect is, the normal learning curve of not really having any idea of how to use it... I read the directions that came with the jig and started grinding. I ended up with what really amounted to a lawn dart with no wings... A dangerous useless piece of steel... So I hit the web and dug until I found the guy on you tube that had the 23dg angle, the wood block for distance, and a decent description of what he was doing.... He was referencing the "Sharpening demystified" article from the 2006 Winter American Woodturner, which I found and printed out... Anyway to make an almost day long journey a little shorter the article helped a lot, got the side bevels right, the wings length right, and the bevel on the flute right... and it cut pretty well

I think my front end is still a little sharper or more narrow than it should be because it seems a little "grabby" but i'm way down the road from where I started in regard to sharpening....

cya,
david

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

David,
Go to YouTube and search "Sharpening a Swept Back Grind or Irish Grind on a bowl Gouge". The woodturning Shop has a good video to begin with. Then Google "D-Way tools sharpening video". Dave from D-Way does a another demo showing angles and setting of the One Way jig.
Your grabby tool could be the result of too steep a grind, or possibly a convex shape in the wing or maybe your presentation to the wood. If you are not familiar with the concepts of "riding the bevel" or the four basic cuts and tool positions, maybe a lesson from an experienced turner would be a good idea.
faust

[Don Bunce]

Why do you need to remove the tailstock? If you swivel the headstock, the tailstock won't be in the way...

[Roger Chandler]

Your wolverine jig should have come with a sharpening DVD..........it shows you how to do it. The learning curve is really short with this............you can also access it online if you go to the Oneway website.........or at least they used to have it......I have not looked in a couple of years, but since this is one of their standard product offerings, it should be available.

[David Coburn]

Faust.. I think maybe it's the convex shape of the wing.. The article said a convex shape would make it less aggressive.. Maybe I misunderstood it.. As to riding the bevel I understand what it means and can do it most of the time but sometimes I would almost have to turn the chisel verticle to do it.. I think I need a better understanding of when and how you use the various cuts.

Don.. It simt didn't occur to me.. Thanks..

Roger.. I watched the video but what it describes is very different from the article so I had to make a choice. Also, the video said a few thongs that were in direct conflict with the article... Like the 2" rule and where they placed the angle on the V arm.

thanks for the feedback.
david

[Steve Schlumpf]

David - a photo or two of your new grind may help determine if the catches are from the gouge or presentation.

[David Coburn]

Steve,

That's a great idea... thank you.

Here they are...

282516

282517

282518

If anything jumps out at you please let me know...

thanks again,
david

[Steve Schlumpf]

David - you have a very sharp angle to the nose and that will cause you some problems with catches. Give me a few minutes... I seem to remember taking a series of photos on the gouge grind I use. Not saying what I do is correct, but it works for me.

Here is the thread: Gouge Grind (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?176579-Questions-for-Misters-Schlumpf-and-Keeton)

Let me know if you have any questions.

[Dave Paine]

If you swivel the headstock, just remember when you swivel back to centre, you will need to re-check that the headstock is actually centred. The detent is not that accurate. You should also re-check the headstock and tailstock alignment. This matters for me in making pepper mills and the deep holes I need to drill. I have a NOVA DVR which does not come with a stand so I made my own. I have a little extra length so I made a sled to park my tailstock and allow me to move it out of the way. The biggest frustration of removing the tailstock is having to hold the lock down lever up while ensuring the locking plate is aligned with the rails. I found this to be a hassle.

The sled keeps the locking plate aligned. Simple pieces of scrap.

You could easily make something to screw onto the end of your lathe.

I slide this back if the tailstock is in the way. I lift both tailstock and sled if I need to remove entirely.

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

David, take a picture looking into the flute. Tool looks very pointy and I suspect you have a very acute angle on the wings.
faust

[David Coburn]

Steve,
I read your and Mr. Keetons' thread and made myself a new wood block at 7.125".. I did not change the angle on my jig and the flute bevel was very steep... I shortened it up a bit and finally ended up with the picture below. The wings are not as long as I wanted but it actually worked quite well and I wanted to turn not sharpen so I went with it... I believe if I were to make the the distance to the wheel even a bit shorter the wings would be longer... but in no case do I see how I would end up with what I see on your chisels... I am assuming that you free handed the bottoms to remove the lower part... Is that correct? What is the purpose of this?

Dave,
Thanks for the tip...

faust,
I already reground it before I could get the picture, but yes it was very pointy but I'm not clear on how you are using the term "acute angle"... They were very steep..

282541

thanks,
david

[Steve Schlumpf]

David, it's been awhile since I messed with setting up my gouge profile but I believe it is the distance that the gouge extends from the end of the vari-grind that helps determine the length of the wings. I have the gouge shown in the link I provided set to extend 2 1/8". Give that a try and see if it doesn't provide the profile you want. If not, be sure to only vary one thing at a time so that you become aware of what changes cause what effect to the grind.

You are correct in that I freehand the secondary bevel on the gouge. Why? Because the longer bevel bruises the wood and is not needed to make any of the cuts. The actual bevel I use is right around 1/8".

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

David,
Sorry for the confusing term. I refer to a steep angle as acute. When the angle of the wing bevel is too steep the tool cuts too aggressively and we call that grabby. Trying to teach you to set up your angles via the written word is tough at best. There are many videos on You Tube showing the process. With regards to determining how steep your grind will be, remember, you can set the distance the tool sticks out of the jig anywhere from 1 3/4" to over 2" as Steve told you. The trick is to set up a method of measure that allows you to set it the same every time you sharpen. Some of us glue a stop block on a flat surface our preferred distance back from the edge. Personally I drilled a 3/4" by 2" deep hole in the edge of the wooden deck my grinder is mounted on. I slip the jig on the tool, insert the tool into the hole the full depth and slide the jig up against the deck and tighten the tool into the jig.
It is also important to realize the angle of the leg determines the nose angle of the grind but the distance the jig is from the wheel determines the bevel angle of the wings. Without the help of a properly ground tool to use to set up your jig, getting this right may be difficult. The "sweet spot" is the right combination of these two adjustments.
Find another turner to help you with this. There must be tons of turners in your area. Find a Woodcraft store. I am sure there is help available there.
faust