COREL X4 Question

[Chad Fitzgerald]

Is there a way to center a graphic on something that is locked????

I made a jig in corel, bunch of circles,cut it out on BB ply. each run will have different graphics/texts that i will center in the circles. is there a way to do this so I dont have to worry about accidently moving the circles?
Thanks Chad

[Bert Kemp]

Not exactly certain what you mean. But if the circles are spaced far enough apart, you can unlock select the circle and the graphic hit ctr c then ctr e and it will center the graphic perfect in the circle. Not sure if that will work in your case but worth a shot.

[Chad Fitzgerald]

guess i wasnt clear. I know how to center objects within another. Im engraving a bunch of round coasters. I made a template jig, cut out a bunch of circles for the coaster to sit in so i can do the whole table at a time. The graphics/text are different for each.
I am selecting both circle and object and centering the object in the circle. then deleting object and putting new in the circle. I am trying to avoid accidently moving the circle each time i select it.
Is there a way to lock it so it WONT move as i am centering new text/objects in in. OR do i just need to be real careful.

[Mark Sipes]

If you select the circle (s) and pull down "Arrange" in Corel .... is there not a "Lock Object"

[Gary Hair]

If you select the circle (s) and pull down "Arrange" in Corel .... is there not a "Lock Object"

You can't select it for alignment if you lock it although you can still snap to it.

[Gary Hair]

Is there a way to center a graphic on something that is locked????

I made a jig in corel, bunch of circles,cut it out on BB ply. each run will have different graphics/texts that i will center in the circles. is there a way to do this so I dont have to worry about accidently moving the circles?
Thanks Chad

I would use print merge instead of doing this manually. Monstermerge does a fantastic job for me using graphics that I import in from pdf files. I can import in hundreds of images with just a few clicks.

[Dee Gallo]

Chad, I do this kind of thing every day. Make your template shapes on one layer. Cut the template out and then group, lock and make the layer non-printing and on the bottom. Now make your designs on a separate layer which IS printable. You will be able to see the guidelines, but not move them or print them. There is no way I know of to "snap to" with out unlocking and that's too dangerous. Save your print settings for future use using the name of the template document.

I cut my templates from hardboard (masonite) which is thin (easy in and out of thicker objects), easy to cut, cheap, hard and durable. I print the settings, label rows, the name of the print file, etc. on it so I can match the template to the job. A helpful hint: make sure you can focus once the template is in place. In my case, I make a rectangle in the focus position because my items are not under the "spot".

cheers, dee

edit: you can also make all kinds of registration marks on the template layer. For instance, make a second circle inside the main one which is centered, to help you position the graphic easier if you want a margin of blank around the edge. Another way is to make a target, crosshairs or some other means of making sure the graphic is in the right place easily. None of these will print if you put them on the template layer before making it unprintable. If the coasters have a grain or shape direction, put an arrow or dot or something to guide you as you place the coasters in the holes... this must be placed outside the circle so you can see it after the coaster is in place.

second edit: I do two sided items using the same template, just flip the item and GO!

[David Somers]

Dee,

Just curious. Does Masonite cut well? I use it for router templates and it is certainly durable and useful.

And I am not quite sure I understand what you mean by "I make a rectangle in the focus position because my items are not under the "spot"
Do you mean you put a rectangle on the template whose top surface is the same height as the items you are holding so you can focus on that instead?

Thanks,
Dave

[Dee Gallo]

Hi David,

Masonite cuts easily and cleanly for me (25w and 35w Epilog Mini). I buy a 4x8 sheet at Home Depot and they cut it (free!) for me into 12" x 18" to fit my bed, with a little left over. Very economical, like $7! Plus storage is easy since it's so thin and does not warp.

Here is a pic of one of my templates... actually the ugliest one I have - hahaha! It just happens to be in the laser right now. You can see the focus rectangle on the top left, outside the area used for engraving. I check focus there and then place the tile back in the right place.

[David Somers]

Ahhhhh! Got it. You have a spot cut out there to accept a tile from elsewhere on the board. You focus on it in that location rather than having to go through the process of moving the head to someplace with a tile in your grid, and then once focused, remove the tile and put it back into whichever grid spot you removed it from.

I take it that focusing spot is the default location for focusing on the Epilog? I would have thought the Epilogs were fairly easy to focus anywhere on the table? Does doing that add significantly to your process? Obviously it does or you wouldn't bother with a premade focus tile location like that.

I was looking at something similar if I ever get to the point of buying a laser. I make a fair number of christmas ornaments that get delicate finials put on them. I was looking to use the laser to engrave a delicate filagree in parts of the globe of the ornament. Each globe has a 1/4" hole in the top and bottom to accept the finial. So an easy way to engrave a bunch of them is to do what you did, but have a 1/4" dowell where you have each tile. Make sure the dowels are all the same height. Then push each globe onto the dowels until the tops match the top of the dowel. The diameter of each globe will be pretty irrelevant so long as the top is the same height. All I have to deal with then is the depth of field issue. (the engravings would accept a metal powder infill. or crushed mineral stones, or whatever works for that design)

Thanks Dee!!

[Steve Morris]

You can set up a locked layer as Dee said in a colour with the circles for positioning then have a working layer with the circles in a different colour that way you have a registration layer that will easily identify any moved circles. This will still allow you to centre the graphics in the circles on the working layer.

[Dee Gallo]

David,

I do it that way because I like to use the center of the table for most even engraving, plus I only want to do 36 tiles at a time, not needing the entire bed size. I tend to do things in the easiest and most simple direct way. Some people like to play with moving the head, but I think it's simpler to just move one little tile to save the time and effort of moving the head. The less I mess with machine mechanics the better, so why not use the default position?

[Chad Fitzgerald]

thanks everyone. that all helps.
chad

[David Somers]

Dee,

That approach makes perfect sense. As you said, why fuss with the focus location if you don't need to.

I am curious though about your saying "I like to use the center of the table for most even engraving" ? Is there an issue with a change in the quality or depth of the engraving as you get away from the center? Keep in mind I don't have a laser yet so I am not familiar with some of these idiosyncrasies in a laser. That is why one question from me generates 5 more. Just scream if I go too far!! <grin>

One non related question. I did take a quick look at your web site a bit back and had always been curious what got you into the Mah Jong tile restoration work? That is certainly a very specific niche! I ask because I have a friend who collects gold coins and treasury notes from early in our country's history. For him the collection is a physical tool for his love of history from that time period. Plus the die work on the coins and engravings on the Notes are often stunningly detailed and beautiful. Now when I hear of someone in a niche like this I get curious what drew them to it?

Thanks!

Dave

[Mike Null]

David

Generally speaking there is no issue with respect to quality or depth or focus with starting in the center. That assumes your machine is in adjustment.

Start positions can be set where you want them. In most instances I start in the upper left at the 0-0 position. For other jobs I move the job to the laser within job control.

In some instances you may be engraving a peculiarly shaped object and cannot move the laser outside the engraving area of the object so I position the laser and check "return to start". That will keep the laser head within the confines of the object.

[Dee Gallo]

David,

Mike is right, there is no reason to use the center if your table is level...it's just me.

As to your other question, I have many friends who play and collect vintage mah jong sets, as I do myself. One of them asked me (knowing I am a painter) if I could re-paint her set, others asked if I could carve replacement tiles, and the rest is history. I have a background as an artist and scrimshander, so it was not a big leap for me. Getting a laser was just simply an upgrade of tools for me... beats carving by hand! Yes it is a strange niche, but rabid collectors are the best niche customers. They know what they love, are willing to pay whatever it takes and appreciate everything you do for them. They eagerly await your next creation and sign up to be on waiting lists a year in advance. Win-win-win-win-win!