Another Table Saw Question... Craftsman 113

[Jon Wilson]

One of these days I'm going to know enough about this saw to actually answer some questions...

To the question;

As some of you know, I recently purchased a Craftsman 113.xxxxx (early 80's)

I got it all dialed in, put a power twist belt on it, got the PALS installed. She's cutting straight and true.
Now all of a sudden raising and lowering the blade has become nearly impossible.
I have cleaned the under carriage and lubed everything up with a dry lubricant.

Any ideas on why this is happening & more importantly: How do I fix it?

It worked fine for the first couple weeks, just in the past 2 days has this become a problem.

And as always, TIA for any insight!

[George Bokros]

I had to clean and lube the mechanisms that raised the blade and it cured my similar problem. I had to use two hands to raise and lower the blade now it works excellent.

[Pete Duffy]

Something is in there jamming it up. Maybe a small offcut is stuck between something. Clean again.

[Troy Turner]

There are two pieces of iron that kind of rub together when it raised and lowered. When I replaced the arbor in mine I noticed this. There is a clip holding a brass rod in that allows the pieces to pivot. If you decide to take the whole thing out (which after you've done a couple of times is easy ;) ) you can get to it. If you're not inclined to do so right now, shoot some lube between the two pieces. Once I knocked this rod out, I ran some grease up and down it and that things moves like butter. Look in the front of the saw when you're raising and lowering and you'll see what I mean.

As others have said, double check that nothings blocking the movement on the screw.

[Lornie McCullough]

Does that saw have the motor within the enclosure??? And does it protrude just a tiny amount out the left side??? If so..... and this is a long shot..... because I stack cut-off pieces of plywood against the saw on that side..... a piece of a certain size will jam under the motor and confound me until I realize what is happening. It happens so rarely, it catches me by surprise when it happens.

Lornie

[Jon Wilson]

Update -

In the process of cleaning, I was under the saw looking for anything that may be blocking the movement.
FYI: I didnt find anything, everything looked as clean as possible, at least from the underside.

After a thorough check, I tried to use the crank to lower (which is the direction giving me the most trouble)
the blade, I snapped the crank lever in half. Now I'm in the process of looking for a replacement.

Troy, I did find a metal clip laying on the ledge under the saw. I couldn't figure out where it came from or if it
was essential to proper operation. I guess I have to figure out where that came from now.

Lornie, the motor "hangs" off of the back of the saw.

[Troy Turner]

Jon -

Post a couple of pics of what you found and what broke and lets see if we can't go from there. While there are parts out there on the auction sites and such, sears still sells most of the parts for our saws. That's where I got my arbor from.

[glenn bradley]

The PALs can get in the way on some saws. I overlooked mine when trying to troubleshoot a tilting issue. Finally realize the motor mount was just grazing the PALs. This put thing out of true enough to bind. Swapped out for a shorted cap screw and all was well. Not everyone cares for their saw the way you are doing. It is surprising how a piece of prehistoric (that is; pre-Jon) crud can get wedged in a screw thread and gum things up.

[Jon Wilson]

The first pic is of the clip I found.
The second a gratuitous shot of the broken crank lever.
Shots 3 through 8 are random pics of the underside of the saw lift mechanics.

If anyone can spot anything I'll be forever in your debt.
If anyone needs a picture or angle that I don't have up, just let me know,
the saw is in non-operational status as of now seeing that the crank broke while the blade was fully extended.

Thanks!





282525282524282531282532282529282528282527282526

[Greg Peterson]

Look at #44 (lower left hand corner of the diagram) on this exploded diagram. It is the C clip that holds the arbor housing to the trunnion and is the vertical pivot point of the arbor. You will see the pivot shaft is cast into the arbor housing. My guess is the C clip fell off, for reasons unknown. But since you will need to reinstall the clip, you may as well apply some appropriate lube to that pivot shaft.

It makes sense that if the C clip fell off, the arbor assembly could/would slide on the pivot shaft and cause binding. Not safe to operate until you get the arbor assembly properly secured.

http://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_png/PLDM/00049362-00002.png

Looks like you will being doing some pretty deep surgery to get to this. Getting to it while it is mounted under the table might be possible, but it might also be quicker, easier and more thorough to just drop the whole thing, plunk it on a work bench and give all the moving parts a nice cleaning and lube.

[Jon Wilson]

Well, it certainly looks like I have plans for tomorrow :eek:
Without really looking at the task ahead,
Are there in odd tools that I may need?
Any words of wisdom?
Any "Good Luck" wishes?!? lol
Thanks for the info!

[Clay Crocker]

Jon,

It looks to me that the C clip you found is #32 in the diagram that Greg posted. If that C clip comes off, the Screw (that your broken crank handle was attached to) will work its way towards the rear of the saw (you can see that this has happened in your 6th photo labeled 017.jpg). I think the C clip that you see on the screw in photo 017.jpg should be closer to the casting in the upper right hand corner of that photo. If the screw is moved back towards the back of the saw then, when you try to lower the blade the teeth of the Housing will try to run off the end of the Screw threads onto the unthreaded portion of the screw causing the whole thing to bind.

I owned a Craftsman saw years ago, one thing I learned was if the blade does not want to easily crank up and down or tilt, don't force it! Figure out what is wrong because as you found out, you can break these saws. Hopefully all this will have cost you is a new crank handle. Good luck. Clay

[Troy Turner]

Jon - Looks like Greg and Clay are pointing you in the right directions. Since you're going to have to pull the guts out anyway, you'll be able to quickly see where the clip came from. The pivot arm that Greg talks about, I removed mine with a socket about the same size and a hammer. Don't know how long mine had been in there, but it took some persuasion to get it loose. Once it was out though, I cleaned it up and put some axle grease on it. It's sealed in the housing so now worries about getting sawdust in there. I also put some grease in the bearings and on the crank rod/shaft. Once I got it all back together, I was overly impressed with how smooth the operation was.

As for advice: Remove the blade. Remove the motor. Remove the tilt screw mechanism and the stop nuts on the tilt screw/rod. I can't remember if you have to remove the tilt screw or just make it loose from the side of the housing. To remove the cradle (guts), take off the rear trunion ( #15 in the diagram). Careful though, cause the cradle is heavy. Then slide it out.

Let us know which C-clip popped off.

[glenn bradley]

Let us know which C-clip popped off.

I was hoping it was one of the motor bracket rod clips, #61.

[Greg Peterson]

You shouldn't need any special tools. It's not terribly complicated to take apart. Unless you can get someone to help you turn the saw upside down, gravity and small space is your enemy.

[Jon Wilson]

ok, finally found some time.

I have everything apart except for the tilt rod (#22). What do I do with the infernal thing?!?

Do I take it off at the wall, where it's screwed in place?

BTW: Somehow the lift got jammed so tight that I can't even get the belt off the pulley inside the saw.
It's nearly pinched to the underside of the table.

This is starting to be a real PITA!!!

[Troy Turner]

Mine has a couple of screws behind the tilt wheel. Take your tilt wheel off and see if you have any. It should loosen up a metal plate. I wanna say it'll come out with the rest of the cradle. As for the belt being pinched, so the pulley on the arbor is so far against the bottom of the table that it won't come loose?

[Jon Wilson]

Thanks! I'll give that a try.

Not quite pinched, it'll wiggle, just not enough room to get the Power Twist belt off.
Maybe 1/4" or a hair more from arbor pulley to underside of table.

[Dick Brown]

After refurbing 15 or 20 of these old gals, I speak from a bit of experience. (My hobby as well as wood working) Take the motor off, turn the saw over on it's top and get at the guts from above. Still be able to tilt the works to get at most of it with ease and should be able to spot any problems. Even better if you can, when you turn it on it's top, put it up on sawhorses and enjoy working standing up.

[Marty Gulseth]

Hi Jon,

Semi-off topic, semi-thread hijack. About the link belt - did you get to operate the saw with that installed enough to notice any difference? If so, are you pleased? I have a similar saw and the link belts are on sale at the local store...

Thanks for your patience and insights. Regards,

Marty

[Greg Peterson]

Hi Jon,

Semi-off topic, semi-thread hijack. About the link belt - did you get to operate the saw with that installed enough to notice any difference? If so, are you pleased? I have a similar saw and the link belts are on sale at the local store...

Thanks for your patience and insights. Regards,

Marty

Jon - The tilt rod is captured by the plate that holds it to the side of the saw cabinet. Undo the plate, held in place by a couple of screws, and remove the stopper on the end of the rod, and the rod should unthread from the arbor assembly.


Marty - I installed a link belt on my Craftsman, and I can say that the saw ran much smoother. It even passed the nickle test.

Dick - Indeed, flipping this thing upside down is about the only way to really work on it.

[Jon Wilson]

Absolutely! With the old v belt on the saw things could "walk off"

With the link belt almost zero vibration. get one and don't even think about not getting one.

I got mine from Harbor Freight, I was told it was one of their "diamonds in the rough" and now I'm telling you :)

[Jon Wilson]

Thank You, Thank You, Thank You!

Found the missing clip location...

It was (drum roll, please)... Clip #32 at the front of the height adjustment rod (#36)
but it also appears that I'm missing parts 33,34 & 35
282835

And you must have known that I have another question...

The diagram shows a "bar", #20...
Is one of these that rod?
282836

Aside from this all I need to do now is find a crank handle and put her all back together
and hope it's not to difficult to square it all up again.

Again, Thank You, not only for the answers but also the guidance in taking her apart.
I don't think I would have ever tried that without your help!

[Marty Gulseth]

NICE - congrats!

Regards,

Marty

[Troy Turner]

Jon - Good to see you got it out and fixed :D

"Bar 20" looks like the arbor nut wrench, both of which you show in you pic. Mine looks like the one on the bottom.

As for 33-35 and going back and looking at your handle, it appears that may be part of the wheel assembly? I have a screw in my wheels to attach them to number 36. A lot of time folks sell the parts on e bay. Worst case scenario is you'd have to order from sears.

[Jon Wilson]

Jon - Good to see you got it out and fixed :D

"Bar 20" looks like the arbor nut wrench, both of which you show in you pic. Mine looks like the one on the bottom.

As for 33-35 and going back and looking at your handle, it appears that may be part of the wheel assembly? I have a screw in my wheels to attach them to number 36. A lot of time folks sell the parts on e bay. Worst case scenario is you'd have to order from sears.

So, #20 does not attach to the saw?

As for #33-35, my height adjustment rod (henceforth known as "HAR") does not have a screw,
it locks down with a set screw. Which is where I'm having trouble
finding the crank handle. I called Sears, the operator was nice enough to give me
the price and item# for the knob that locks down the rip fence. Kinda dampens my
faith in the knowledge of the employees. I checked all the diagrams and unless I'm just plain ol' missing it,
I can't find the crank handle on any of them. And while we are on the subject, before I go measuring (or to verify once I have)
is the end of the HAR where the crank handle seats a standard size? After looking on eBay it seems that the majority are
1/2" & 3/8".

I'll be SO happy when I get this thing back together and can start making sawdust again. I've got 4 projects
that are dead in the water until all the repairs/replacements are done.

[Troy Turner]

What's your whole model number? Sometimes if partsdirect doesn't have it, ereplacementparts.com might. I want to venture to say that Rigid may even carry a few parts.

[Troy Turner]

Oh yeah, 20 doesn't look like it needs to be attached. Based on the diagram, it's the wrench. May have a couple extra holes for miscellaneous nuts/bolts.

[Greg Peterson]

One of my local hardware stores had a selection of handles from which I was able to find a suitable replacement. As I no longer have this saw I can not provide a measurement of the diameter of the HAR.

The rip fence on my unit was the first thing to go. I quickly grew tired and frustrated with the absolute futility of the OE fence. If you plan on keeping this saw for a while, you may want to consider a aftermarket fence.

[Jon Wilson]

model# is - 113.299040

Everything is back together, haven't check square just yet.

Hoping to narrow down the correct crank handle in the next day or so,
I don't like wasting money on items that won't work. Of course, I suppose no
one likes wasting money.

I can see myself with this saw for quite awhile.
I'm on disability and shelling out big money for a really nice saw
isn't (and probably won't be) in the cards.
The fence is next on the upgrade list. This may take awhile
because with my current situation I'm going to need to be VERY
patient doing the eBay, Craigslist hunt.
Working on getting the mechanics all spruced up and then
working on the "getting better cuts" portion.

Thanks for all the input and help.
I can't say it enough, I thought I had made a $70 mistake
and had sold my other table saw already.

[Troy Turner]

Ebay is your friend for parts for these. Typed in craftsman tablesaw handle and a lot of hits came up. Looks like a new part from sears is $30. In the meantime, maybe what you can do is take the one off for the tilt and just use it to adjust the height too.

Keep your eye out on a fence. I scored a Vega a while back. Bolted right on the saw. No drilling required and dead on cuts.