Woodworker II

[Jim Guy]

Just got an order from Rockler. I thought I ordered a 1/8'' kerf Forrest Woodworker II. What showed up was a thin (3/32) kerf. Rockler tells me they do not carry the thicker blade but I can send what I got back if I wish.

Will I be able to tell that much difference? I have a Jet Cabinet TS with the MJ 1/8" splitter on it and have been using a 1/8" kerf Woodworker II for some time and really like it. I guess I would have to change splitters if I keep the thin kerf.

If I send it back where is the best place to get the 1/8" kerf? Can't remember where I bought the first one.

Thanks

[Todd Burch]

Jim, I have both, and both work fine. I prefer the 1/8" better myself. Todd

[Jim Becker]

Other than with "portable" saws, my preference will always be for a 1/8" ("standard") kerf blade.

[Dale Rodabaugh]

Jim,go to hartvilletool.com,they carry just about everything.They ship worldwide.They are located in Hartville,OH,which is a little south of Akron.They have an on line catalog,and you can order a regular catalog thru the net.:cool:

[Jim Becker]

3D Sales usually has the best pricing on Forrest blades, in my experience.

[Jeff A. Smith]

3D Sales usually has the best pricing on Forrest blades, in my experience.

Hey Jim...

Unless I overlooked something like a coupon or rebate, Amazon has 'em beat by $9 and has free shipping (on the 40-tooth 10" WWII, at least).

Jeff

[Dale Rodabaugh]

Jim heres the 800 no.for Hartville Tool,1 800 345 2396 :rolleyes:

[Jim Becker]

Unless I overlooked something like a coupon or rebate, Amazon has 'em beat by $9 and has free shipping (on the 40-tooth 10" WWII, at least).

Good to know, Jeff. Thanks!

[Dave Avery]

You may have a problem with the splitter than the TK blade........

[Brad Olson]

Members of one of the "other" forums get 20% off this month at Hartville tool.

[Ray Bersch]

There, I got it in - thanks. Hartville is offering 20% off on anything but tools for Father's Day and orders must be in by June 20. You must say you are a Woodnet member - oder by phone or web at Hartvilletool.com - I have had very good experiences with them - tell them Ray sent you (won't do you a darn bit of good, but it might help my ego!)

Ray
P.S I don't think this breaks the "no commercial" rule 'cause someone else brought it up.

[JayStPeter]

I try to buy all my blades 1/8" kerf. That way, I never have to readjust anything for kerf size and my ZC insert fits all. I'd send it back so you match.
I've bought Forrest blades from both 3D and Amazon. I go for the cheapest price. 3Ds sale and show prices are great. But, I think Amazon has the cheaper day to day prices (especially if you can add a coupon :) )

Jay

[Steve Cox]

I have both a thin kerf and a regular WWII and I really can't tell any difference. I use the regular most of the time and use the thin kerf when I need extra yield out of a board (like making 1/8" edge banding). I also use one as the backup to the other when they are being sharpened.

[Per Swenson]

Ok, I do not want to hijack this thread but...

I shop amazon all the time, love it.

But when it comes to saw blades and such,

you can have my 9 dollars.

3D sales has unsurpassed customer service.

Real people skills. I once ordered a zero clearance insert.

They sent 2. I needed a blade fast, fedex next day, no charge.

Needed a Dado blade they where out. I jokingly said

" well whats under the counter?" The sales man said, " how did you know?"

reconditioned dado, next day, saved 75 clams.

I will spend 9 dollars for service like that every time.

Also, I prefer to use nothing but a 1/8th inch blade.

Per

[Jim Benante]

I am new with the table saw and didn't know there was much difference in using one over the other. I bought the thin kerf and made my own zero clearance insert. I also bought the thin kerf MJ splitter. Is there any reason I should consider using a 1/8" blade vs. the thin kerf? When buying the blade I thought the thin kerf was the way to go.

[Steve Cox]

Jim, it depends on who you talk to and what your application is. The regular kerf is said to be stronger (25% thicker) and hence more durable than thin kerf blades. However, if you are running a contractors saw a thin kerf blade can give you an apparent increase in power (25% less waste to remove). Regular kerf is also said to run truer than thin kerf although I haven't found that to be the case personally. For me, it comes down to the fact that they are tools just like any other and each has its' place when you need it.

[CPeter James]

Silver's Mill has the WWII for $89.75. That is the best price that I have seen.

http://www.sliversmill.com/shop/default.php?cPath=3

I have both the 1/8" and 3/32" WWIIs and really can't tell the difference. Both were just sharpened by Forrest and I tried them both when they came back to see if there was a difference and I could not see any. The big draw back is changing everything for one thickness to another. You splitter and zero clearance inserts won't work and your fence measuring tape will be off if you have a left tilt saw.

CPeter

[Jim Benante]

As long as using a thin kerf doesn't pose a safety problem I will keep using mine until I need a new one then I'll try the 1/8". Sounds like I should have gone regular kerf. By using a thin kerf is there any safety concerns? I have the WWII by the way.

[CPeter James]

I don't beleive there are any safety concerns. The only difference is ...maybe...a little more blade stability and even that is questionable.

CPeter

[Kevin Post]

I've bought Forrest blades from both 3D and Amazon. I go for the cheapest price. 3Ds sale and show prices are great. But, I think Amazon has the cheaper day to day prices (especially if you can add a coupon :) )

Jay
Amazon offers free shipping plus they currently have a coupon promo for $25 when you spend $199.00 or more on tools. I bought a 1/8" kerf WWII, a set of Carter guides for my bandsaw and some spring clamps.

The only problem... I ordered them on April 24th. The blade didn't arrive until last Friday (6/10), the guides just arrived today and I'm still waiting for the clamps. I've generally had good luck with Amazon but they've been a bit pokey lately.

I must add that I've never owned or used a Forrest blade. I am amazed at the difference.

-Kevin

[John Keane]

I also got a thin kerf WWII. It didn't work with my issue Delta splitter. Got a thin kerf Delta splitter and it worked fine. Traded a Keller DT jig for a brand new 1/8th kerf WWII.
Works great with the narrow splitter and I am a 1/8th guy from here on out.

[Dev Emch]

Per....
I have to agree with you. There are to many issues in the day to day to have to contend with more. If coughing up the 9 clams yields a brain dead reliable solution with one phone call, then its worth it.

You got contact info for 3D?

Because my saws are heavy industrial rejects, I often have to order my blades. For example, I have to pay about $7 dollars to have the blades bored to 1.25 inches for the martin. I also have some of them ground flat instead of with the traditional ATB grind. So to do this, I special order my blades directly from Forrest. The guy you want to talk to is Tony. He is a dinosaur who has been there for a long time. He is a down to earth guy and knows how to set you up. No martketing monkey business!

To John and others...

Yes, using a 1/8 inch blade does make a difference. You are fighting two major issues with saw blades. First, carbide teeth are brazed onto the blade which is like soldering on steriods. They are not welded because you cannot weld carbide. This heating can warp the blade disc. The thinner the disc, the more significant the warp and if your not careful, your blade will look like a pototoe chip. The 1/8 in disc will also warp but here is where good steel, good skill and blade flatening comes into play. The forrest blades I have are all thicker blades and dead flat.

The second issue to think about is vibration. As your disc goes thinner, ringing becomes more of a problem. Now you can put on dampers and balance everything and do a number of "tricks" to remmedy all this, but its easier to just use the thicker blades. And your not saving that much with a thinner blade. In fact, when you calculate in the loss do a ringing blade, its much more than you would expect.

Bottom line is this. I have found no technical reason to use a thin kerf blade. In fact, technical reasons abound for not using them.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Dev.....the only real arguments I've heard for thin kerfs that I'd buy into were...1) less weight for a smaller horse power motor....2) saves wood??so very little in my opinion.....3) less steel so probably cheaper to make?......I'm with others....I want 1/8"....

[Steve Cox]

Ken, at times it really does save wood. As I put in another post I use my thin kerf most frequently when ripping 1/8" stock. After all is worked out I can get 5 strips per inch w/ a thin kerf instead of 4 with a regular. Depending on how large a job I am doing that can be a significant difference.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Steve......I was recognizing that they do save wood. In most of the work I use t/s and cms the little amount they save doesn't do me a lot of good. I can see if you are using expensive exotic woods or are on a project and down to the final cut the amount they save might prevent having to procure more wood to finish the project. For the most part, however, I'm seldom that lucky and if I'm short material, it's because I've incorrectly cut something or made a major miscalculation requiring me to purchase another board to finish. :rolleyes: I'm still looking for a board stretcher....... :rolleyes: I never did find the line stretcher I heard so much about during my 8 years in the Navy! :rolleyes: :D Often I'm looking for a budget stretcher too! I haven't found one yet....... :confused:

[Jim Guy]

I've been out of the office. Just got back in. Thanks everyone for all the information. I'm sending back the thin kerf and I have already placed the order for the 1/8''