Sketchup Users

[lowell holmes]

Let me start by saying I have used AutoCad for about 30 years, so I am a bit tunnel visioned about how cad software is supposed to work. I am using Sketch-up Make (the free software).

I have Bob Lang's video's showing the use of Sketch-up in the shop. I think they are a quality production.

My problem is moving components to an exact point after I have created them. I expect the location after moving to be exact.
I cannot get components that I create to snap to a point.

I looked for add ins that will enable snapping to a point, but haven't found one. I have learned to create points in a component. I did not find it to be intuitive.

The attachment is an exercise to learn about the software. It is a folding tray that is commonly sold at many craft shows, a very clever design. There are plans online that can be downloaded, as I said above, this is a learning exercise.

Bob said in an earlier string that Sketch-up is it's own animal and I agree. There are features that I really appreciate.



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[Keith Hankins]

Ok I think i know what you are asking. First go to window, then model info, then units. Do you have line snapping checked and selected a dimension. Assuming imperial measuring here, so 1/64" is minimum but I go 1/16" that's as accurate as i get. That is not required to do what you wish but do make it easier.

Now if you are moving the component to a point on a line of another component, then simply hold the move tool to a point on the component to be moved hold the left mouse button and drag to that point let go and it will be placed.

If you want to move that component to a specific point on a surface, then the way I do it is with guide-lines. I use the tape-measure tool to create a cross-hair with guide-lines (dashed-lines will appear). With those created, I can then move using the above method the component to the intersection on those lines and it will snap to it. Once done, I simply go to "edit" and select delete guide lines and they vanish (all in the model will be gone). I use this all the time.

An example of this would be lets say you want component x to be 12" from the top of component Y and 2" inset from the left edge of Y. I'd go to the left edge of Y use the guide tool select a point on the Y line and hold the left mouse button and drag to the left 2" release and guide line one is done. I'd repeat this just going to the top Edge of Y and selecting a point on that line and hold left mouse button drag down 12" and release you have the second guide line. then move the component corner of X to that intersection and release left button and it will be right where you want it. I'd then delete the guide lines.

There may be other ways out there that are better, but for move a component to a point on surface, I was taught that was easy. I use guidelines all the time for this and its fast easy

I'm sure you will get other responses, so give it a try if you have any questions PM me. If you are an old autocad user, you are way ahead of others, but you will have to think a little diff. I got so frustrated with AC7 I gave up till sketchup came along. Good luck.

[Clay Crocker]

I use Sketchup a lot, but I am by no means an expert. It seems to me that object snap is always on in Sketchup. In other words, when you select "Move" and get the four arrowed move cursor on the screen, you just have to hover the cursor over the point (endpoint, midpoint, intersection, etc…) in the component you wish to move and then click on it to "grab" the component at that point. Then move the component to the point you wish to move it to, usually a point in another component, group or guide. Hope this helps. Clay

[Steve Baumgartner]

+1 to what Keith said about snap and guides.

SketchUp's inference engine can help a lot. It monitors what you are doing and tries to guess what you intended, then highlights snap points it thinks you might be looking for. For instance, if you want to align the corners of two Components, make sure the engine highlights/tooltips a corner on the first Component before you click to begin the move. Then make sure the destination is highlighted before you release. As Keith noted, you can lock the direction of movement once started, either by pressing one of the arrow keys (to specify an axis direction) or the shift key (to lock the current direction) and then you can move your mouse cursor over a point off the movement path to cause SketchUp to place the Component at the closest point on the locked direction to the cursor point. This lets you do things such as align a back leg with a front leg when you copy it from one side to the other.

Use the value control box ("measurements") to input precise distances for the move when there is nothing you can align with.

Steve

[Steve Baumgartner]

I use Sketchup a lot, but I am by no means an expert. It seems to me that object snap is always on in Sketchup. In other words, when you select "Move" and get the four arrowed move cursor on the screen, you just have to hover the cursor over the point (endpoint, midpoint, intersection, etc…) in the component you wish to move and then click on it to "grab" the component at that point. Then move the component to the point you wish to move it to, usually a point in another component, group or guide. Hope this helps. Clay

The snaps you describe are from the inference engine. That is a different action than the snap Keith mentioned, which causes positions to be restricted to increments of whatever you set, and which can be turned off.

Steve

[Clay Crocker]

OK Steve, I see what you mean. I am used to working with "line snapping" turned off and just using the inference engine and guide lines like you describe above. Thanks, Clay

[Bill Huber]

I am sure not an expert but one thing that really helps me in moving things is the arrow key on the keyboard.

Pick the move tool and click on what you want to move then hit an arrow key.

Up and Down arrow keys will only let you move the object up or down on the Blue axes.
Left arrow key will only let you move on the Green axes.
Right arrow key will only let you move on the Red axes.

This helps me a lot....

[lowell holmes]

That wasn't checked and I buried myself looking for the answer. Bob covered that in the first lesson or two and it just got by me.


Thanks to all that responded.

[Bob Lang]

Thanks for the kind words Lowell. Moving things precisely is a common struggle. In my classes we do a couple of exercises just to practice getting stuff right where you want it. Snapping in SketchUp operates on the same principles as snapping in AutoCAD but the snap points are limited and there aren't as many options available. One of the things I emphasize is that the point you start a move with is also the point you use to let something go. Stop and think about what will eventually line up with something else and pick that point to start a move. The better you get at navigation, the easier this becomes. Most of the time you need to zoom in to find a point, zoom back out to see where you're going, then zoom in again to put something down.

Bob Lang

[Pat Barry]

If you want to move that component to a specific point on a surface, then the way I do it is with guide-lines. I use the tape-measure tool to create a cross-hair with guide-lines (dashed-lines will appear). With those created, I can then move using the above method the component to the intersection on those lines and it will snap to it. Once done, I simply go to "edit" and select delete guide lines and they vanish (all in the model will be gone). I use this all the time. .

This is the method I use as well however, the problem I have is that the view I am working in doesn't always seem to register with Sketchup to find those previouly set guide-points. Often I need to rotate the model perspective in order to complete a move to a guide-point. This occurs if the plane of the object 'from point' is not 'into the screen' at the same level as the guide point. Rotating the model changes the perspective such that Sketchup now infers you want to move to a point that is further 'into' the screen image - I don't know how to better describe it.

[Dave Richards]

Lowell, learning how to move things precisely in SketchUp is definitely a fundamental skill you want to learn. That said, I generally draw parts (at least the first instance of the part) in place where it will live in the model. This has a number of advantages for me. The key being that I can use existing parts of the model for reference and I don't spend so much time putting the model together. Some folks like to draw each part completely and then move them into place. I know of at least one guy who teaches others to draw each part in a separate SketchUp file and then assemble the model form those files. I guess it works for him but that's working too hard for me.

Remember to make components of parts as you go so you can maintain separation between parts.

[Ruhi Arslan]

I have not read all the replies but if it has not been mentioned, where you grab the object you are moving does help to get the object to move to the point you want. I grab the object from the point where I know going to meet at a particular point. For example, if I picking up a tenoned piece, I select a point that will be visible after merging with the receiving object. If I were to pick the tip of the tenon, I would not be able to drop it precisely where I want to becasue I would not know when to let go not knowing if it would be close enough to snap.

[Harry Hagan]

I am sure not an expert but one thing that really helps me in moving things is the arrow key on the keyboard.

Pick the move tool and click on what you want to move then hit an arrow key.

Up and Down arrow keys will only let you move the object up or down on the Blue axes.
Left arrow key will only let you move on the Green axes.
Right arrow key will only let you move on the Red axes.

This helps me a lot....

Thanks Bill, I didn't know that! Hope I can remember the next time it's needed.

[Dave Richards]

Frankly, I prefer to lock the direction with Shift. It's a single key on the left side of the keyboard and it works for locking in any direction, not just those parallel to the axes. My left hand tends to hover over that end of the keyboard because Shift, Ctrl and All are frequently used modifiers anyway and I don't have to remember which arrow key I want. But it's cool to have both options so for those who prefer it, the cursor keys are the trick.

[lowell holmes]

Thanks guys,

The discussion has helped. One thing that was frustrating me is that I was inadvertently viewing in perspective mode rather than parallel projection mode.
The attachment is the folding tray I was doing as an exercise. It is not the same image I had in my first post. The drawing has all the components in it, including two invisible pins that provide the pivot
point for the legs. The circular mortises are also on the components in case I wanted to build one. I can't imagine I will since I have a tray that we've had for years.
Like I said, they are probably for sale at all of the craft shows. I still think it is a clever design.




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[Steve Baumgartner]

Thanks guys,

The discussion has helped. One thing that was frustrating me is that I was inadvertently viewing in perspective mode rather than parallel projection mode.
The attachment is the folding tray I was doing as an exercise. It is not the same image I had in my first post. The drawing has all the components in it, including two invisible pins that provide the pivot
point for the legs. The circular mortises are also on the components in case I wanted to build one. I can't imagine I will since I have a tray that we've had for years.
Like I said, they are probably for sale at all of the craft shows. I still think it is a clever design.




282346

Depending on what you are accustomed to, either parallel or perspective feels more natural. I think Dave R wrote that he likes perspective. I prefer parallel while drawing because I get disoriented less, but I always do presentation views in perspective. In perspective it is worth learning how to manipulate the camera focal length. Just as with a real camera, if you choose a longer focal length you can get farther away while still filling the screen, which tends to flatten out the sometimes extreme perspective you can get from the default camera.

One of my kids made a table like that in shop class many years ago. It is clever the way it folds up and handy for stowing out of the way.

Steve

[Dave Richards]

Steve is right. I prefer the camera set to Perspective. It looks more natural to me and it allows me to do some things with the camera that are either not possible or very difficult with the camera set to Parallel Projection.