Which Sliding Table for Unisaw?

[Izzy Charo]

Hello,
I have a 1985 Unisaw with Biesemeyer Fence and I'd like to add some sort of sliding table...basically tired of using the cross-cut sled. Wondering if folks have experience with the Grizzly Sliding Table attachement (which appears identical to the BusyBee/Craftex one)? It's about the size I'm looking for, and is less expensive than the Excalibur version. Floor space to the left of the saw is limited--so again the Grizzly looks good to me... Questions: Do folks who have this consider it a precise tool? I've read some mixed reviews on the miter gauge being sloppy in the slot, etc. I understand it has "indents" for common angles...but is there a fine adjust so you can set it dead-on with a precise square?
Thanks for all responses!

[Rick Potter]

Izzy,

Can't speak to the Griz, but I have had an Excalibur (large) table, and Excalibur (junior) table and currently have a Jessem on my Unisaw. Of those I preferred the Excalibur (in my case the junior worked out best).

My saw is not moved, and I will probably put the Excalibur back on. If you move your saw around, the Jessem would be my recommendation.

Note that most of the time I use the table it is for dado's. I crosscut on a RAS.

Your needs may differ.

Rick Potter

[Bob Potter]

I bought the sliding table from Grizzly in Sept of 2013. I put it on my Delta contractor saw. The slider is made well and very smooth and quiet when sliding back and forth. There is no side movement what so ever, very tight.
The fence miter gauge is made very heavy but does have some play in it. The tape measure is adjustable. The flip stop lock down has some play and you have to be careful to make sure it is strait or it will mess your cut length up.
I have a Jointech smart miter slid which fit on the slider and works pretty good. And with the sled it puts the edge right next the blade which is some what like the sliding table saws.
I'm thinking very serous about getting an Incra 27" 49" telescoping fence and flip stop and putting it on the sliding table.
Getting back to the miter gauge fence that comes with it once you get it cutting square it works ok. The slider is sure nice for those wide cuts, it will cross cut 48".
Even with the fence not being what it should be I would still buy it again.

Hope this answers some questions. This is a good slider, Bob

[Izzy Charo]

Thanks Bob, very helpful! Any others out there who have used this?

[William M Johnson]

I also had the Excalibur. I thought it was pretty good until I bought a Track Saw (EZ Smart first then Festool). I sold the slider and the Powermatic 66 that it was attached to. To me there is no comparison between a Track Saw and a Slider for the things I was doing (3/4" plywood cabinets)

My $0.02

Bill

[CPeter James]

I have an Exactor sliding table on my PM66. One change I did make was to run two pieces of angle iron out from the cabinet and put a piece of oak on then to make a platform for the legs to sit on. This makes the saw and sliding table one. I used to have the saw on a mobile base and this allowed it to be moved when needed. It is very accurate and well made in Canada. The rails are stainless steel and the table runs on ball bearings and slippery plastic (I don't know the exact product). I have had it for over 10 years and on two different saws and have been very happy with it. I have the 26" version and it will crosscut 36" with the fence mounted on the back of the table.

http://www.exaktortools.com/index2.htm

CPeter

[Izzy Charo]

Thanks Tim--that was a great thread and helps a lot! Looks like you've now had a few years experience with it...are you still happy with it? Wondering why you chose to drill/tap new holes in the saw rather than drill new holes in the slider unit? (or was that not an option?). And did you end up using the supplied miter gauge or eventually replace it with an Incra or the like? Looking at the pictures I can't help but winder if bumping into the two legs of the slider will knock it out of alignment...
Thanks again!
Izzy

[Bill McNiel]

Izzy,
I have a Unisaw and have had the Delta Slider on it for 20 +- years. I now have a Festool track saw and MFT table that pretty much makes any slider obsolete. It is much easier in a one man shop to have big pieces stay stationary.

[Izzy Charo]

Thanks Bill....agree about the large sheet goods. What I am trying to do is avoid having to haul out the cross-cut sled every time I need to cross-cut lumber or small pieces of MDF or plywood. And I have a small shop and so limited room for a track saw... though they do look great!

[Bill McNiel]

Take a look at placing the MFT at the right end of your table saw (my solution) or it could function as the outfeed table. This gives you the ability to support "long" material and perform precise cross-cuts. The track saw is IMHO an extreamly versitile tool that can perform a multitude of tasks very accurately. Yesterday I used it to joint the edges of six 7'-6" x 5/4 boards. I'm not trying to talk you into anything, just want you to get the most out of your shop and money.

[Dominic Carpenter]

My 2 cents. I own a Hammer slider. Yes, fabulous on sheet goods, but it is equally fabulous with solid stock (very accurate and that accuracy is repeatable). Review some of he other threads here regarding sliders. Taper cuts, thin rip cuts, 4" thick stock capacity, and perfect 90 degree cuts all with no jigs or sleds to make. You will set up your ripping operations differently and you will be amazed by the pleasure you get just using a machine that is dead on while your hands stay away from the blade.

[Izzy Charo]

Thanks Dominic.... I confess to having lusted over a Hammer slider! For me the question is one of space...could you tell me, realistically, how much space one needs to the left, and right of the blade? I think I have enough room in front/behind (that is, with my current set-up I can rip a 9 foot board) but I only have 3 feet or so to the left of my saw.. not sure how much space the slider + miter requires...
Thanks!

[Tim Janssen]

Thanks Tim--that was a great thread and helps a lot! Looks like you've now had a few years experience with it...are you still happy with it? Wondering why you chose to drill/tap new holes in the saw rather than drill new holes in the slider unit? (or was that not an option?). And did you end up using the supplied miter gauge or eventually replace it with an Incra or the like? Looking at the pictures I can't help but winder if bumping into the two legs of the slider will knock it out of alignment...
Thanks again!
Izzy

You're welcome Izzy. I am still happy with it. The reason I drilled and tapped new holes in the saw table is because new holes in the slider would have put those holes too high and to close to the top edge of the slider base and might have interfered with the slider top as well. If you look at the pictures in my installation thread, you'll see that the slider base is a fair bit down from the top surface of the saw table. It's been a while since I did the install but I'm sure that was the main reason.
Interesting, I don't see my post in this thread anymore, yet you quoted it.
Oh, almost forgot, Grizzly eventually sent me a different miter gauge, however I always check the angle anyway.
The changes I made to the support of the slider are still working out very well.
Regards,

Tim

[Chris Parks]

Thanks Dominic.... I confess to having lusted over a Hammer slider! For me the question is one of space...could you tell me, realistically, how much space one needs to the left, and right of the blade? I think I have enough room in front/behind (that is, with my current set-up I can rip a 9 foot board) but I only have 3 feet or so to the left of my saw.. not sure how much space the slider + miter requires...
Thanks!

The hammer can have the panel support outboard of the slider itself removed when not in use. You can also buy a basic slider with no panel support outside of the slider and if needed it can be fitted later. I did the last as handling large sheets on my own was a problem so I could see no point in having the full size panel capability on the saw and I use very few full sized sheets anyway. It is true, you do things totally differently and so much quicker, in fact I had to change the whole thinking process. It does take a lot of the danger away but not totally as it can be used as a conventional TS if needed and I have not yet had time to build the fixtures to use the slider totally instead of the rip fence. This is the aim when I get time.....http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DqzVglze9Nk

[Mark Carlson]

Hi Izzy,

I had the same thought about 5 years ago, and ended up buying a Jessem Master R Slide 7500. Built like a tank and very accurate. I dont miss the cross cut sled. Unfortunately Jessem stopped making them, but maybe you will run into one on ebay or something. I once saw someone make a cool one on askwoodman.com. Heres a link. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g0Xvv1Svu2s

~mark

[Michael Kuzian]

I have the same sliding attachment as Bob, but in the shop fox version. I think it was 50 bucks less. The laguna unit is the same as well. I saw it in the Laguna show room when I was getting a tutorial on my new edgebander.

I am very happy with the slider, I did however have to make a few little tweaks/adjustments to get it perfect. IMO, this is not a problem for a precision tool that is capable of a quick setup and repeatable results. I love being able to crosscut at 50" when needed. I too have the festool track saw and am a small one/two man shop. I rarely bring out the festool in all honesty. Admittedly though to be fair, I am on the young side at 30 and might be using the track saw more as the years progress. That being said, it still beats any crosscut sled or miter gauge I have built or bought. You get what you pay for.

[Jim Andrew]

Chris, that utube video would be great if you understand German.

[Chris Parks]

I think it is self explanatory for the most part but some detail gets lost unfortunately.

[Izzy Charo]

Thanks to all...Based on all the replies I am planning on buying the Grizzly Sliding Table Attachment. I'd love to have a Hammer K3...but I'm tight on space...maybe for the next shop! Final question: has anyone on this Forum installed the Grizzly Sliding Table Attachment on a Unisaw (mine is 1987 vintage)? Did you have to drill and tap new holes in the Unisaw?
Thanks again!

[Michael Kuzian]

the holes lined up on my unisaw. it used the same holes the extension attached to.