Oliver 166 bd 12" jointer question

[marty shultz]

I'm considering getting one of these ol' iron machines. It has a 480 volt motor I I don't have 480 available. I can't tell from the pictures I've seen if it's a direct drive motor? if so, I'll bet it's not easy to change the motor. Anyone have any experience changing one of these?

[John Downey]

The motor is direct drive. I've seen them converted by mounting a motor below the machine with a belt going to the cutter head. Not sure how much shaft is between the motor and the cutter head or how easy it is to make the mod.

I would look at getting a VFD rather than trashing the direct drive motor.

[joe milana]

I'd ask over at OWWM.org, but first confirm that the machine doesn't have a dual voltage motor. A buck boost transformer will get you from 240v to 480v. You may get a verbal thrashing for suggesting that machine be converted to belt drive. Sacrilege to some...

[Andrew Hughes]

Hi Marty,My 166 bd was 440 I had the stater rewound for 220.Its still three phase cost me 300 dollars.If your here on the west coast I can share info with you.The guy that did mine really did a nice job.

[David Kumm]

Check inside the motor even if the faceplate says 480 as it may have none leads. If o you might be in luck. You will need a transformer to run it if 480- vfd won't work by itself. Unless it is given to you cheap, don't change out the motor. It will cost 400-600 to rewire it to 240 and swap the starter coil and heaters unless you go vfd and then it is the cost of the vfd too. Changing the motor pretty much destroys the resale value. Dave282210

EDit, for those unfamiliar, here is one I should sell. Dave

[marty shultz]

I signed up on the owwm site. I'm a newbee with old iron engineering. Is there anyway of knowing if this model has bearings or babbit? Gib or clam shell? It's serial number 84148 if that helps.
http://auctionazonline.com/photos/2014_02_12ADW/36815_2.jpg

[David Kumm]

Jointer was made in 1954 and within a year of mine in the picture. Ball bearing, should be oil bath so look for the oil cups front and back. Worth more if the original oil bearings are intact vs replaced with sealed. Three or four gibbed knife head. Babbit and clamshell go beack to the 1920s and earlier. What you have is Oliver at the top of its game. looks to be a strong machine. Dave

[Mel Fulks]

Not familiar with that model but I think the design is too modern looking to be Babbitt or clamshell.

[John Downey]

That machine has gibs. Don't know what the bearings are, but it still has oil cups for them. It is three phase, I don't believe it is 480, the auctioneer probably doesn't know his ear from a hole in the ground.

I used to work in that shop :D We had 3 phase, but no 480 that I recall - there would have been a transformer or two around if so.

If you buy it, drop me a PM and I'll tell you how to adjust the tables.

EDIT:
The more I think about it, the less I buy that it's 480.... There was 3 phase coming in from the pole, everything in that place was 208 or 240 single phase. If I remember correctly, only the widebelt sander was hard wired to a disconnect, everything else was on plugs.

That machine also had the knife jacks replaced with springs so they could use a quick setting magnetic jig. Although I prefer the old style jacks, most guys probably will like the springs. You can see one of the springs in the picture of the cutter head on the auctioneer's website.

[Jeff Duncan]

I signed up on the owwm site. I'm a newbee with old iron engineering. Is there anyway of knowing if this model has bearings or babbit? Gib or clam shell? It's serial number 84148 if that helps.
http://auctionazonline.com/photos/2014_02_12ADW/36815_2.jpg


Yes….ask the person selling it:rolleyes: Your not going to get any better details from anyone other than the person who is now in possession of it.

I'm also not in favor of converting direct drive to belt drive. There's enough of these jointers out there that you can find one that's an original belt drive and probably come out ahead of the game financially vs converting one. FWIW those Olivers are my favorite design for jointers. If I ever wind up with a little more money and space I would hunt down a nice 20" for my shop:D

good luck,
JeffD

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Like Joe said, if it is 480 only, just get a transformer. If you are bringing new service to your shop to run it anyhow, odds are good that 480 is readily available to you.

I've lusted after an Oliver 166 since I first saw one. Someday...

[Benjamin Miller]

I have a rotary phase converter with two sets of windings. You put 220 single phase in, and 480 three phase comes out.

I was still working on being born when a local motor shop made it in 1985, but I believe it cost about $200 back then.

[marty shultz]

Great information guys. thanks a lot

[marty shultz]

John - thanks for the information. I'm planning on bidding on some other items. If you get a chance could you quickly send me a message on the quality of the Bridgewood mortiser, multi-router, the K500 saw, cdt saw, jessem router, vacuum press, and the spindle sander?

thanks,

[Frank Drew]

There were a number of excellent machinery manufacturers, but when I think of top quality jointers I think Oliver, just like I think of Tannewitz when I think of bandsaws. In my next life....

[David Kumm]

As great as the oliver design is, as the tables get wider, the more important it becomes that the two pedistals are carefully leveled so twist doesn't muck up the settings. The old Clement three toed design is pretty hard to beat. Clement, American, Yates, Northfield, and Porter were the equal and some might argue superior to the Oliver design. The oliver #12 is a while different animal and has no competition. Dave