New Workbench

[Mike Steinhilper]

I just completed a new workbench. It is the "solid core door" plan from Woodsmith. Looks great and it's very heavy. However, I am debating what type of finish would be best. Any suggestions on a good urethane/oil/stain combination? I don't need it to look like a dining room table, but I would like some serious protection against glue, etc. Thanks!

[Ray Bersch]

Mike,
For what it is worth, I decided to just wax the surface - I used a Butcher's wax that I had on the shelf and probably have 4 coats on it. My reasoning was that my workbench is not just for wood work but for all the household chores that arise and I felt that any other finish would get scratched, chipped or otherwise mutilated. The wax helps repel coffe cup stains, glue, minor oil spills, etc. and it is easily renewable.

Ray

[Bob Noles]

Mike,

I used a gloss wipe on poly from popular recommendations here and elsewhere. It looks nice, is absolutely easy to apply and has held up very well.

[Mike Steinhilper]

Ray, I'm intrigued by the Butcher's Wax idea. First of all, what is it? Secondly, is it more resiliant than poly, i.e. what consistency? And finally, how often do you re-apply?

[Kyle Stiefel]

Hello,

I used BLO which is simple to apply and reapply. The glue comes off with a light pass of a scraper. Just a thought.

[Ray Bersch]

Mike,

The Butcher's Wax is just like Johnson's paste wax, same stuff. In fact, I also have a can of Johnson's but there was less in the Butcher's Wax can so I used that. I have used it on workbenches for quite some time - about once or twice a year - cheap and simple. The only thing I want to do with a work bench is to protect it from some basic stuff - its not a piece of furniture. Others may feel differently (but of course, they must be wrong;) ).

It is nothing like poly or any other "finish" and I wouldn't even call paste wax a finish. Its just, well, you know, wax.

Ray

[Michael Ballent]

Ray, wouldn't the wax potentially rub off on the furniture and lead to finishing problems. Since I work in an uncooled shop in Phoenix I would worry about the wax potentially melting ;) You can cook an egg on the sidewalk on a good day :D

[Ray Bersch]

Michael,
You may be right on that. But, I don't have the heat problem and I doubt that the amount of wax on the top would cause melting problems - but again, I don't have the heat issue to even find out. Also, I don't use the work bench for assembly . In fact my bench is 40" high, not good for assembly - I have an assembly table that nests under the work bench (actually, a four drawer laterial file cabinet on a mobile base - and a maple top is being designed for it as we speak and which I also intend to wax.). It pulls out when I need it and is just the right height for assembly. The work bench is just a bench on which I work - nothing more.
Ray

[Dale Rodabaugh]

My workbench is a workbench.I never even thought of putting a finish on it.The top is ash,about 2 in.thick.It has served the purpose very well.:confused: :( :confused:

[John Shuk]

I have a bench that I bought from Mr. Jim Becker. It has BLO on it and it seems just fine to me.

[Bartee Lamar]

I have same type of bench. I put on 5 coats of Poly then keep it waxed. Glue just pops off.

[Mike Steinhilper]

Ok, thanks for all the recommendations... what is BLO?

[Jim Becker]

Ok, thanks for all the recommendations... what is BLO?

Boiled Linseed Oil...not really "boiled", of course. It just has additives so that it cures quicker than raw linseed would. It's actually the base for many (but not all) varnishes, but was often was (and still is) used alone on period furniture and decorative items. I use it on all my shop surfaces...it's quickly renewable, yet allows glue to be removed easily.