Worksharp question: Avoiding back bevels on chisels?

[Frederick Skelly]

Evenin folks.
Bought a worksharp to supplement my stones. Plan to use it for mostly the early/heavy work when flattening a plane iron or chisel. (Clarification: using the top of the disk.) Saw an old post warning that its easy to accidentally grind a back bevel on your chisels (bad for precision work) on a worksharp. But it didnt say how to protect against causing one.

According to the archives, a lot of Creekers use worksharps. Can any of you tell me how to avoid creating an unintended back bevel?

Thanks very much.
Fred

[Phil Thien]

Don't insert the chisel upside down? I can't imagine other ways to put a back bevel on a chisel, what am I missing I wonder?

[glenn bradley]

I agree a little clarification is needed. The flat of the chisel rides on the ramp, the bevel meets the disc and then the chisel is backed out with the flat still in contact with the ramp. What exactly is happening? Oh wait. I think I just got it. You are flattening backs on top of the disc, yes? When you lift off, raise the cutting edge first. That is, tilt the tool up and away from the disc, do not raise the rear of the tool.

[Frederick Skelly]

Sorry guys. Yes, on top of the disk. Ive added that clarification now.
Fred

[John Coloccia]

Don't flatten it on top of the disc. Simple as that. Get a duosharp and flatten the back/remove the burr on that and a strop. Yes, it's very easy to grind a back bevel and do other bad things when you're on top of the disc, so my solution is to simply avoid it. I did it a few times like that and the care I had to take was just more trouble than it was worth, but if you're careful you can do it and it works fine.

[johnny means]

Flattening should be a one time deal. Take the time to flatten on a dead flat stone and never look back.

[Stephen Musial]

I got one last week and didn't have a problem. Just put the back on the top of the wheel using the edge as a fulcrum and lever it down flat. Press it flat to the wheel an there's no chance of creating a back bevel.

[Andrew Fleck]

I have a Worksharp and don't flatten with it either. I get a much more consistant result using other methods. Sandpaper glued to a granite plate works great. It works great for grinding a flat bevel, but that is all I use it for. I grind the primary bevel and then hone on waterstones.

[Myk Rian]

I flatten on the Worksharp. They instruct you on how to lay the blade down heal first, then raise it heal last to remove it.

[Al Weber]

I use a foot switch so I can lay the flat down on the disc and then step on the switch to start the disc. I guess if you are blessed with better hand-eye coordination than I it can be done using the switch on the machine but I can't do it well so the foot switch works for me.

[John Coloccia]

I had a footswitch on mine too for a time.

[glenn bradley]

I use a foot switch so I can lay the flat down on the disc and then step on the switch to start the disc. I guess if you are blessed with better hand-eye coordination than I it can be done using the switch on the machine but I can't do it well so the foot switch works for me.

I do use the WorkSharp to flatten backs but, also have stones. Al is a genius and clearly demonstrates how the best ideas are simplest. I have a footswitch for a vac right near where I use my WorkSharp and never thought to use it as Al describes. Thanks Al!

[Prashun Patel]

I flatten on the Worksharp. They instruct you on how to lay the blade down heal first, then raise it heal last to remove it.

I use my WS to flatten. Heel down first, lay it flat. To remove, I just draw the blade backwards until it slides off the wheel.

I've never had an issue with back beveling. If you invest in a couple diamond grit 5" discs ($10/pc for 120, 220, 500 grit), I doubt you'll find a faster method for flattening.

[Phil Thien]

I flatten backs on mine all the time. Any microscopic amount of back bevel from lifting the chisel off the disc would be eliminated as soon as you started grinding the bevel, I'd think.

I must be missing something.

[John Coloccia]

Something like this:

http://www.knifehog.com/p-2427-dmt-duosharp-bench-stone-8-inch-extra-finefine-wm8ef-wb.aspx?CAWELAID=1932672925&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CIn44ZeLwrwCFRPxOgodhxAAIg

I forget which one I use. It has a blue dot on one side, and a red dot on the other. They do a great job of flattening water stones too.

[Myk Rian]

I have a footswitch for a vac right near where I use my WorkSharp and never thought to use it as Al describes. Thanks Al!
Bad, bad idea.
There was a discussion about this very thing last year. The Worksharp generates sparks, and hot steel filings. A vac or DC is not a good place to be putting those shavings.
Worksharp confirmed this via e-mail, and was posted.

Re-reading your post, I see you meant connecting the switch to the WS.

[John Coloccia]

FWIW, I started using the footswitch for EXACTLY the same reason as Glenn that it made it easier to flatten blades, and also just generally made it easier to free hand from the top. Maybe I even got the idea from him.

[Frederick Skelly]

Thanks for the information guys. This helped!
Fred

[Steve Collins]

Dosen't the I/S of the disc spin at a different speed than the o/s? How can you get a truly flat surface with this being the case?

[Ellen Benkin]

I want to personally thank Al Weber for the suggestion to use a foot switch with the Worksharp. A brilliant idea that saved me hours of torment trying to flatten my blades without gouging them.