Table Saw overhead dust collection/ Grizzly - PSI experience

[fred klotz]

Having exposed myself last year to enough Red Cedar dust to over sensitize myself, I am in the process of upgrading my dust collection.

The final link is collection above the table saw blade. I've looked at most of the shop built solutions on this site, and have considered building my own boom (I can fabricate and weld).

But when I get to the actual shroud at the blade, it appears I will spend quite a bit of time fiddling with that to make it safe and convenient, so I have considered just buying that part of the Grizzly system, but when checking on line, that part doesn't seem to be available separately. I haven't checked on the PSI part yet. And I haven't tried calling Grizzly support to see if they can provide the part.

So, I may purchase one or the other of these systems, or just the shroud. The ability to get it out of the way easily when necessary, and durability are my two major concerns. I can deal with issues with the boom portion.

What can you folks tell me??

[Mikail Khan]

Check out the Shark Guard from Lee Styron.

What kind of saw do you have?

MK

[fred klotz]

I have a unisaw and currently run a 4" outlet on the cabinet. If I'm not mistaken, the Shark Guard attached where a splitter would? I'm not as concerned with guarding as I am with collecting, and so far, the overhead units appeal much more to me.

[Tom Cullom JR.]

2 words SHARK GUARD!!!!

[Jim Andrew]

The shark guard has a hose attachment so you can catch the above the table sawdust. You have to rig your own support, I just hung a pipe overhead and drop a hose down to the shark guard. It does use the splitter to carry the weight, and only occasionally do you have to remove it, such as for dados, or thin cuts where the guard is between the blade and the fence. It works better than any other guard I have ever used, and the dust collection makes it a must have.

[Bas Pluim]

+1 on the Shark Guard

[Michael Dunn]

Check out the Shark Guard from Lee Styron. What kind of saw do you have? MK

+1 on the shark guard. I have one and another on order. Actually my spot in line just came up. Very effective for safety with the riving knife and great DC up top.

[Michael Dunn]

Here's a pic of my DC support. The shark guard was still on order, but here's one way it can be done.

[fred klotz]

Well, Thanks to all of you.

The Shark guard is highly recommended, so I went to the website, and it has a 4 month lead time, as it was several months ago when I first started investigating my options.

I just recently was referred to some plans by a Gordon Sampson for an overhead guard/dust collector. I had seen the unit previously but wasn't aware plans were available. I didn't pursue it any further because I haven't found 3/8" Lexan locally available. Now that I have a set of plans, which will save me much time, I will find a source of 3/8" material, even if I have to order it.

By the way, Sampson's unit has been referred to as the "Badger Pond basket". Maybe somebody here has built one and can provide their experience with it??

Many thanks to all of you for your responses.

[Robert Delhommer Sr]

Fred, where did you find the plans? I am interesred in a overhead DC for my TS.;)

[Brian Cole]

I found the overhead plans by Gordon Sampson here: http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/blade_guard.pdf. Originally off Badger Pond forum, archived and made available on WoodCentral.

[Rod Sheridan]

I had an Excalibur overhead guard which I really liked, as it could be used for non through cuts.

Excalibur sell just the guard without the mount, I believe it's called the ceiling mount model.

[Brian Tymchak]

... I didn't pursue it any further because I haven't found 3/8" Lexan locally available.



Wow. 3/8" lexan is heavy duty stuff. For dust collection, I would think you could get by with thinner stock, say 1/8", and save yourself some money. I bet most of the commercial units use 1/8" or so. But most commercially available overhead guards I've looked at claim not be an actual guard but just for dust collection.

[Rich Enders]

Fred,

In a general way the thicker the PC, the less the impact resistance. Counter-intuitive, but borne out by reams of data laboriously generated by universities, and also practical testing of headlight covers, and windows etc. 1/8 inch PC sheet has about 8 times the Notched Izod impact resistance per unit of thickness of 1/4 inch PC. Even allowing for the extra thickness of the 1/4 inch sheet, that means that the 1/8 inch configuration would absorb 4 times more energy before fracture. Some will argue that Notched Izod impact is not the best test because there are no notches in the design. However PC scratches very easily, and as a part of a dust collection system it will develop many fine scratches (notches).

I have no idea what energy is generated by projectiles coming off a table saw blade, but going from 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch, or even 3/8 inch PC is not likely to improve the ability of the guard to safely contain everything coming its way.

Perhaps in another thread we could survey owners of the popular guards to see if there have been any cracks or failures.

[Ole Anderson]

The polycarbonate on the SharkGuard measures 5/32". I have had plenty of offcuts hit the inside with no apparent damage.

[Robert Delhommer Sr]

Thanks, will seriously look into this when I get caught up on my projects. :)

[fred klotz]

The guy who designed it wanted it to be a guard, and a dust shroud. And 3/8" should handle any impact created by the saw. I needed it primarily for dust collection, but wanted it durable enough to not break.

Brian, Thanks for posting that link

[fred klotz]

Rich, that is interesting information. I haven't ordered the polycarbonate yet. I wonder what the plastic guards are made of that come with saws originally? I would certainly be interested in hearing from anybody who has had degradation or failure of plastic guards.

Not all plastics are created equal.

[fred klotz]

Thinking about this for a quick moment, I realized that Sampson probably used 3/8" material because the design calls for assembling with screws, as opposed to bonding, so parts could be replaced as necessary.

[Rich Enders]

Fred,

I don't want to diminish the value of PC. It is probably the most impact resistant of the plastics, certainly the most resistant of the clear thermoplastics. It is better than acrylic (eg. Plexiglas, PMMA) by about 30%, and typically double or triple most others. It is an oddity that a thickness of 1/8 inch resists impact better than something 2 or 3 times thicker, but in all thicknesses it is quite good.

You may have heard the "bullet proof" claims also. These are very expensive multi-layer laminates that aren't used in saw guards, but the PC portion of the laminate is a major contributor that absorbs energy via non-brittle deformation. Although PC is normally melt processed, it is one of the few thermoplastics that can also be formed by metal stamping. This is due to its ability to deform without cracking.

I have not seen the Sampson design, but you are probably correct that the added thickness improves a structure assembled with screws.

[David L Morse]

fwiw a number of years ago I built one using .220" thick acrylic (from a borg) held together with #4 sheet metal screws. From what I remember the pilot hole size was fairly critical but easy to determine with a little testing. A set of wire gauge drill bits would be helpful.
282307

[Michael Kuzian]

I have the PSI unit mounted overhead. When I first purchased it I intended on eventually changing the hood, it works so well I just leave it alone. I personally am not a fan of the shark guard in the standard configuration as I us a zero clearance insert %90 of the time at least. I have the splitter built into my insert. This allows me to use my sliding table on all my sheet goods for perfect crosscuts with no need for a setup change, very efficient for me. my .02

[fred klotz]

I also use my shop made zero clearance insert whenever possible, thus wanting an overhead collector/guard. I've committed to the Sampson design, and recently went through my steel supply (DW calls it the junk pile!!), and will design my boom based on available materials, but maintain the ability to raise/lower and pivot the unit. I'm looking at less than $100 outlay, so, I'm happy. I'll have plenty of time into it, but I like designing and building things.

[Ole Anderson]

I, too, use a ZCI, but it was originally modded to accept my stock blade guard. No additional mods necessary when I went to the SharkGuard. And, yes, the holes do help a bit with dust collection.

[Tom M King]

I'm using the Exactor, and like it fine. It's easy to swing out of the way when you need to.

[Joseph Tarantino]

then there's always the ghetto version. effective and cheap.

[Lane Hardy]

then there's always the ghetto version. effective and cheap.
Yo! Bro! Just kidding, I would love to see more detailed photos if you have any. Closer to the saw and the overhead boom arm. I like what you have. I know it is seven years later.

Lane