Question regarding full overlay european hinges for frame less cabinet

[Mike Nguyen]

Hi,
I am building frame less cabinets for the garage using 5/8 baltic birch plywood and would like to know if I can use full overlay hinges for 5/8 plywood. I know it works for 3/4" plywood so the question is do I get the full overlay hinges or 1/2" overlay for full overlay doors since it's 5/8 plywood. In the classified section, there also different sizes for the mounts, 0, 3, and 9mm. Which size do I need?
TIA.
Mike

[Erik Christensen]

Mike - all I can talk about are the Blum soft close hinges as that is all I have ever used. Basically the degree of overlay is defined by the depth of the hinge mounting plate that is purchased separately. I have 3/4" frameless cases and full overlay uses the 2mm hinge and the partial something like 8 or 9 mm. You can dial in the degree of overlay you want by using a different hinge plate and/or reducing the hole bore distance from the door edge. I got a number of hinge plates to experiment with and used some 3/4" ply to mock up the cabinet & door and adjusted things till I got what I was looking for. Once I had that defined it was just a matter of cranking them out.

[Loren Woirhaye]

It's been awhile but as I recall, a full overlay hinge with a 0 base should work well if you aren't putting cabinets butted side to side. If you are, use a 3mm base to give clearance. Full overlay hinges actually overlay a little less than all the way to give clearance for adjacent doors to swing.

[Mike Nguyen]

Thanks Erik and Loren for replying. The cabinets are butted side to side. I guess I will go to Austin this weekend and buy different types and use some 5/8 scraps to mock it up. In the past, I installed close to 100 doors on face frame cabinets between my houses and my sister's dental office but these are my first frame less cabinets and it feels like 4 years ago when I first started building cabinets and learning what hinges to get and how to install them again.

[Peter Quinn]

I'd start with full overlay hinges, 3mm plates, mock it up. As Eric mentioned you can handle the difference with the cup hole distance from edge and the left to right adjustment. I just did some salice hinges that we're full overlay, thick doors, required 0's and a edge distance around 5/32".

[Larry Edgerton]

If the are hinged back to back get full overlay on one door and half on the other, or just do half on all and keep it simple.

Larry

[Peter Quinn]

I don't build with 5/8" for boxes, but plenty of people do, I'm guessing there are full overlay hinges designed for that standard? Most of the cabs in my local big box are frameless full overlay with 5/8" particle board cases butted back to back. I'd call a good supplier, explain your construction conditions, they can tell you the correct hinges for your application. If you haven't tried the soft close hinges.....they are fantastic.

[Mike Nguyen]

This is my first time building boxes with 5/8. In the past, I always built them from 3/4" but I found a deal on 5/8", not 1/2" baltic birch plywood that I usually bought. These are not full sheet of 5x5 but I got over 1200 square feet for $350 so I decided to use them to replace all cabinets that I bought for the garage when we just moved in 8 years ago. After more research, I think I am going to go with Larry suggestion and that is 1/2" overlay. Thank you for all your suggestions.
Mike

[Jerry Miner]

Here is a Spec. page for the Blum hinges I usually use. You can see what the overlay is for the various combinations of mounting plate and cup hole setback. 5/8" is pretty close to 16mm, so for a full 5/8 overlay you can use a "straight-arm" hinge, a 0mm plate, and a 5mm bore (distance from edge of door to edge of hole). You might want a little room between doors, though, so a 14 or 15mm overlay might suit you better, in which case a 4 or 5 mm bore might be better. (There is about 3mm (1/8") +/- adjustment, so you only have to get close)

Blum Hinges (http://www.wwhardware.com/media/installation/blum120hingesinstall.pdf)