What do I do?

[Al Lupone]

The brother of SWMBO has asked me to trim out a room that was just sheetrocked. Checked it out yesterday. This is in a 60's era house. Room had been paneled in 3/8ths redwood boards. When they put up the drywall, they DID NOT pull off the original clamshell molding around the 4 doors. That only left about a 1/8" proud of the wall surface. I suggested they let me pull off the clamshell, extend the jambs & put new clamshell up. They didn't want the walls disturbed. Next, I suggested they let me cut about 6" off the molding bottoms & put in plinth blocks.
Vetoed also. Finally suggested I rip 1/8" hardboard down & scuff up the surface to hold paint & then put that up with brads & a few dabs of adhesive. They agreed to that. Any other ideas for me to run by them?
Thanks
Al

[Cecil Arnold]

I have found that it is always tougher to work/help family than to contract a job. In contracting you can always turn down the job, hard to do with family, but you might try.

[Mike Steinhilper]

I guess they don't want to damage the newly hung sheetrock? Maybe you could suggest pulling off the clamshell and if you damage the walls, you just build up the jambs and overlap with wider moulding?

[Ray Bersch]

Any other ideas for me to run by them?
Al

I am not sure exactly what they want to accomplish - your first suggestion was the best and WOULD NOT visably disturb the walls because the new trim would cover the disturbed area, even if you had to get a wider clam shell.

But, that is not what you asked - have you thought of putting a backband around the existing clam shell? Backband is a stock item but you would have to rip it down to the 1/8" that you have available. This does not result in a clean clam shell look. (But who, in New England, likes clam shell?) The "L" shape of the backband would fit over the clam shell and add some depth to the look. Be sure to caulk the joints - both along the wall and along the clam shell, before painting.

Ray

[Rob Russell]

You don't say whether you're getting paid full-rate for this job, are doing it at a discount because it's family or free because it's family.

If the situation is either of the last 2, I'd say that you have the right to say "Look folks - the right way to do this is how I originally told you to do it. If you want me to do it, that's how we do it. If you insist on telling me to do a way that I believe is wrong, you can either pay me full rate or find someone else to do the job."

Good luck!

[Richard Wolf]

I am pretty much in agreement with Rob. Tell them that you will only do it the right way or not at all. Money is besides the point, right way or wrong way.
Other people will see the job and be told, "my BIL did the job". Don't ever settle for less than your best.

Richard

[Rob Blaustein]

I can't help with your problem, but I would like to learn a bit. Could someone explain some terms to me? I know what molding is around a door frame, but what is clamshell molding? And what are plinth blocks?

[Al Lupone]

You've convinced me to give into my doubts & tell them that if it can't be done correctly, then they will have to find someone else. I'm strictly a very experienced amateur. That means I don't know all the little tricks & shortcuts of the trade. Consequently I have to do things the right way. As a result of that I've picked up the reputation of being a perfectionist.

Rob, since you're from Boston, just look at any of the older houses or apartments. Look at the bottom 6" of almost any doorway. That rectangular thick block, usually with a decorative edge is a plinth block. The thinner baseboard(mopboard) butts up to that.
Al

[Ray Bersch]

Rob, if this works, I have attached a profile of clam shell molding.
Ray