Need ideas: Shooting Board for 45* bevel

[Frederick Skelly]

Hi guys.
I like to make small boxes. Id like to build a shooting board to trim the mitered ends before glue up. My boxes are usually 2"- 5" tall, so I think Ill need to lay the boards on their face in order to plane the miter (i.e. lay them flat on the shooting board, not stand them vertically.)

I havent used a shooting board yet and Im guessing it could be challenging to keep the plane tight against the part being trimmed. If so, I need to rig up a track in which that plane can slide.

How would you guys build one of these?

What size/type of plane would you use? Im thinking that since Im trimming end grain, I probably need to use a block plane?

I could buy a Miter Trimmer from LV, but building/using a shooting board seems like more fun...

Thank you!
Fred

[Tim Geary]

I've been looking into to building one too and one of the few I've found was made by Paul sellers on YouTube. So far that's the best one I've found. There are shooting planes but they are expensive, I will be using a LV low angle jack.

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

A "donkeys ear" shooting board is apt to be what you're looking for.

I've also seen a couple of versions like this:

http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/mitre-shooting-board.html

that seem like a good approach.

[Chris Griggs]

Here's mine...

281603 281601 281602

...Here's Tom Fidgins writeup on how he made his of this type. Its what I based mine on...

http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/mitre-shooting-board.html


EDIT: Looks like Josh already posted that link...anyway, I'm happy with this type. Easy to make and works pretty well.

[Frederick Skelly]

Thanks guys! Just what I need. Simpler than I thought too.

Chris - what plane do you use with it?

Fred

[Chris Griggs]

I use my LV LA Jack plane on it.

[Adam Cruea]

To expound on Chris' shoot board, you can also design the shoot board so that the donkey ear raises the piece up to 45* (and if you leave it adjustable, you could do other odd angles), leaving the shoot plane in it's normal track.

For an example, check out Derek's donkey ear here:

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/RunningFencefortheShootingBoard.html

Look at the "with donkey ear" photo. This is how I'm going to do mine when I get around to caring about nicely-mitred 45's.

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Adam

This is the donkey's ear ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/BuildingaMitredPencilBoxwithaShootingBoard_html_m5 36ec68c.jpg

... used to make a box in this pictorial: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/BuildingaMitredPencilBoxwithaShootingBoard.html

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/BuildingaMitredPencilBoxwithaShootingBoard_html_1d ce8f75.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Sam Stephens]

Just in time Chris! I really like that design. I've got some longer pieces to miter and this looks like a better option than the donkey eared ramp version

[Chris Griggs]

I've got some longer pieces to miter and this looks like a better option than the donkey eared ramp version

That's exactly why I made this type. I've shot mitered base moldings on it before. I've never used the other kind but it seems like it would be difficult to shoot longer pieces on (though I don't know that for sure)

YMMV

[Jim Koepke]

A lot of good designs from which to choose.

Here is a link to one I made for 22-1/2º miters:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?157217-Eight-Eared-Donkey

My base was made with the intent of coming back and building other platforms for different angles. What is it they say about the best laid plans…

This design also allows for a simple adjustment with shims if the wood moves due to changes in weather.


I havent used a shooting board yet and Im guessing it could be challenging to keep the plane tight against the part being trimmed. If so, I need to rig up a track in which that plane can slide.

Maybe this is how some come to see this apparatus called a chute board. A plane riding in a "known true" chute would be able to leave a trued edge on wood.

The first few passes of a plane on the board leave wood at the bottom on which the plane rides. That is why rabbet planes need to be kept away from shooting boards.

It takes a while to get used to the angle of attack when using a shooting board. The Stanley #9 miter plane had a "hot dog" available. These are not difficult to make.

Derek makes a very nice hot dog:

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/A%20Hotdog%20for%20the%20LV%20LAJ1.html

jtk

[Sam Stephens]

It takes a while to get used to the angle of attack when using a shooting board. The Stanley #9 miter plane had a "hot dog" available. These are not difficult to make.

Derek makes a very nice hot dog:

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/A%20Hotdog%20for%20the%20LV%20LAJ1.html

jtk

good stuff here. A hotdog never crossed my mind. I can definitely develop a sore palm doing a lot of shooting if I don't pay attention to how I'm holding my LAJ. I sometimes wear a fingerless weightlifting glove to lessen the impact, plus it looks cool.....

Sam

[Michael Peet]

I made one like Chris's, it works well:

281684

A #7 is just wide enough for this one, which is what I use. Someday after I save enough pennies I would like to get a #51 - it is a little wider and will work great with this board.

Mike

[Frederick Skelly]

Thanks guys! This is even more help than Id hoped for. I had no idea my problem was so common.

Looks like another fun project!
Fred

[Jim Koepke]

Here is a very simple set up for use on a straight shooting board.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?192600-The-Mighty-Miter-Shooter

jtk

[maximillian arango]

I have some what of a stupid question but I will ask now since I am still very knew so I can blame my noob-ness. :D

How do you guys keep the wood from moving around on the shooting board? This is more a question with the one Adam posted, I feel like if you have something a little bit long it will want to tip over the back of it.

Thanks

[Jim Koepke]

I have some what of a stupid question but I will ask now since I am still very knew so I can blame my noob-ness. :D

How do you guys keep the wood from moving around on the shooting board? This is more a question with the one Adam posted, I feel like if you have something a little bit long it will want to tip over the back of it.

Thanks

For long pieces my board will be set up at the right end of the bench with pieces on the bench the same thickness as the shooting board to support the work.

For holding the work my fingertips sometimes require a lick or two. (yes with my tongue)

The plane is held against the bottom of the platform so the toe is registered against the starting edge of the work. In this case, left hand holding the work against the fence and the toe of the plane. The right hand is controlling the plane as it is moved forward and back until no more cutting is taking place. Readjust the work piece as necessary and repeat.

Check the work and make adjustments as needed.

Once you try this it will pretty much fall into place.

Another note, my work environment has a wide range of weather conditions. Things move a lot in my shop. This means my work is checked often as it comes off the shooting board.

jtk

[Brian Holcombe]

I prefer to clamp as I'm usually cutting to a line. How do you guys clamp in this style of shooting board?

[Jim Koepke]

I prefer to clamp as I'm usually cutting to a line. How do you guys clamp in this style of shooting board?

I have not used a clamp on a shooting board. For me the work piece is constantly being moved until either the line is reached or the end is squared up if it is just a clean up.

With a clamp, is the work set to the finish line and then worked until the shavings stop?

jtk

[maximillian arango]

I was figuring that you couldn't clamp it since you would be constantly removing material, but was just thinking it was a pain if it wasn't clammed down since the plane would make it want to pivot out.

Thanks for answering my question.

[Brian Holcombe]

Basically, I cut until the shavings stop, I have the jig set so that the plane can't actually cut the fixture,

[Frederick Skelly]

Once again, just a follow-up for the archives to help the next person . . .

Yesterday, I built and tested both types of shooting boards mentioned here - both the Tom Fidgens type, and a non-adjustable version of Derek Cohens (angles the stock, not the plane). Im using a #5 bevel-down for shooting (for now - I plan to buy an LV bu jack). For me, at my current newbie skill level, I found the Derek-type shooting board to be more controllable (just as he noted).

How did it work? I made a small test box out of 1/4" stock last night. Man oh man, what a difference in the quality of my miter joints!!! I could not believe it. Perfect, sharp corners. Parallel sides EXACTLY the same length. Perfectly square. (And accordingly, it was easier to assemble.)

Thanks so much for teaching me this guys - it was definitely time well spent! :)
Fred

[Brian Holcombe]

Fred, you'll really like the BU jack for this procedure. A low angle is great for end grain.

I've been kicking around the idea of a dedicated shooting plane as well, since the skewed blade makes slicing end grain even easier.

[Mansell Bettez]

Also Check out the vogt toolworks shooting board for ideas. I have not seen one in person, but the wood whisperer had a video about WIA 2013 and there was a segment with Mr. Vogt who talked about his shooting board. Made me want to buy it :)