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brad jansen
02-03-2014, 2:25 PM
Finished a simple marking knife this weekend. 3/32 1095 steel, tulipwood scales and stainless pins. Works great and nice to hold.

http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/Prjects017_zps31eaa824.jpg (http://s492.photobucket.com/user/bjjanse/media/Prjects017_zps31eaa824.jpg.html)

http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/Prjects018_zpsc1a43f1e.jpg (http://s492.photobucket.com/user/bjjanse/media/Prjects018_zpsc1a43f1e.jpg.html)

Dennis Ford
02-03-2014, 2:57 PM
It looks great, I have been meaning to make something similar; you have motivated me.

brad jansen
02-03-2014, 3:57 PM
Excellent...post it when you are complete so we can check it out.

Mac McQuinn
02-03-2014, 9:24 PM
One problem, That's way too nice to use. Great job BTW
Mac

John Aspinall
02-04-2014, 12:17 PM
That is gorgeous!

Say more, please, about setting the stainless pins. I thought that pins were usually soft (e.g. brass) so you could peen them for a tight fit. Do you peen (hammer on, to expand) the stainless?

brad jansen
02-04-2014, 5:20 PM
Thank you. Those are actually mini corby rivets (a two piece bolt which screws together and then you grind off the screw slot for a cleaner look).

I also epoxied on the scales with smooth on EA 40 epoxy. Generally, even if I use a straight pin (brass, stainless or otherwise) I do not peen, but you certainly can for a better hold. Like you mentioned, a softer metal is easier to peen, like brass but think you could probably peen stainless as well.

That being said, I have never had a knife come apart using just a straight pin (unpeened) and epoxy.