Aftermarket rip fence options for Minimax CU300 Smart Combo

[Frank Martin]

My fence profile was not flat, so I ended up installing a Woodhaven ultra track to the factory fence profile to make it flat, but then realized my fence head is not working properly. When I lock it down at different locations the fence does not always lock down parallel to the blade, worse it is not even consistent. So, I am thinking I may need to replace the fence with an aftermarket fence.

Are there any good aftermarket fence options that work with this machine?

I know most folks who have this machine do not use the rip fence instead use the slider, but mine has a 5.5ft stroke so not enough for longer rips.

[Loren Woirhaye]

Seems to me an Incra fence would work well as one could drill and tap holes in the jointer table or add an extension to mount the base. The Incra fences are consistently square. Have you considered your problem may be the fence rail and not the fence?

[Mike Hollingsworth]

Make sure your fence bar is always securely fastened to the stops at the end your jointer.

[Frank Martin]

Seems to me an Incra fence would work well as one could drill and tap holes in the jointer table or add an extension to mount the base. The Incra fences are consistently square. Have you considered your problem may be the fence rail and not the fence?

I thought Incra has both front back bars which would not work for the combo machine I have which cannot accommodate a back bar.


Make sure your fence bar is always securely fastened to the stops at the end your jointer.
Good point. The fence bar is solid and secure however I am suspecting the bearing surface on the bar may not be smooth or somehow damaged. Given that the fence profile is also not flat I am leaning towards just replacing it with something better if there is such an option for this machine.

[Loren Woirhaye]

The Incra does not require bars if you tap holes for the base unit. It is a mounting like the old patternmaker table saw fences by Oliver, Yates, et al. This is what I was suggesting.

[David Kumm]

I don't know if this configuration would work but have you looked at www.vsctools.com? Similar to Biesemeyer but offset for a slider. Dave

[Erik Loza]

Frank, can you post some pictures of this fence, attached to your machine? If I can see what you're working with, I can probably tell you how to make it work.

Best,

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

[Frank Martin]

Hi Eric,

Thanks for offering help. I believe the machine is same as the current model CU300 Smart with 5.5ft stroke. Mine is from 2006. I will take some pictures and post tonight.



Frank, can you post some pictures of this fence, attached to your machine? If I can see what you're working with, I can probably tell you how to make it work.

Best,

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

[Frank Martin]

Frank, can you post some pictures of this fence, attached to your machine? If I can see what you're working with, I can probably tell you how to make it work.

Best,

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

Hi Eric,

Here are the pictures. As you will see I have already installed a Woodhaven track to the rip fence profile as it was not straight.

Appreciate your help!

281571281572281573281574

[Erik Loza]

OK, I see it Frank. So, it is basically still all OEM fence components at this point? Aside from the add-on fence plate?

Just so I am clear, you are saying that when you lock the cam lever, the fence shifts?

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

[Frank Martin]

OK, I see it Frank. So, it is basically still all OEM fence components at this point? Aside from the add-on fence plate?

Just so I am clear, you are saying that when you lock the cam lever, the fence shifts?

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

Yes, it is still all OEM with the exception of the fence face t-track that I installed to address the non-flat OEM fence profile.

The issue I have is that when I lock the fence at different points along the rail, it does not always remain parallel to the blade. I noticed this when I adjusted the fence nearly perfectly parallel to the blade and then moved it by about half inch and then it was out by nearly 0.020", a very large variation. So, I am suspecting that the fence rail may also be the issue. Any thoughts?

[Frank Martin]

The Incra does not require bars if you tap holes for the base unit. It is a mounting like the old patternmaker table saw fences by Oliver, Yates, et al. This is what I was suggesting.

Loren, I think it will get cumbersome quickly when I need to switch between the saw and the jointer / planer as I will need to remove the base unit. Otherwise, I like the accuracy of Incra but it is not necessarily the convenient option in this case.

[Mike Hollingsworth]

then it was out by nearly 0.020", a very large variation. So, I am suspecting that the fence rail may also be the issue. Any thoughts?

that's 1/50th of an inch.

Could the jointer's outfeed table be moving?
Are the stops for the fence rail locked down?

Aside from a new Siemens main switch coming from Amazon today, I've had zero problems with my CU300 for ten years.
It is an incredibly well engineered machine.

[Frank Martin]

that's 1/50th of an inch.

Could the jointer's outfeed table be moving?
Are the stops for the fence rail locked down?

Aside from a new Siemens main switch coming from Amazon today, I've had zero problems with my CU300 for ten years.
It is an incredibly well engineered machine.

Mike,

Yes, it is a huge variation! Jointer outfeed table could certainly be the problem as I don't remember if it was all locked down when I calibrated and then moved the fence. It would not be the first time I did something stupid. I will check tonight and report back.

Also, which switch you are replacing? Just curious in case I need one in the future.

[Erik Loza]

Yes, it is still all OEM with the exception of the fence face t-track that I installed to address the non-flat OEM fence profile.

The issue I have is that when I lock the fence at different points along the rail, it does not always remain parallel to the blade. I noticed this when I adjusted the fence nearly perfectly parallel to the blade and then moved it by about half inch and then it was out by nearly 0.020", a very large variation. So, I am suspecting that the fence rail may also be the issue. Any thoughts?

Two things:

1.) Check the locking cam for uneven wear.
2.) Check the fence guide bar for flaws or defects/ uneven locking surface.

Also, I believe there may be a couple of brass stop screws on the inside of the iron casting for the fence knuckle but don't quote me on that. If there are, check those as well.

All these are available as spare parts if you need them. Best of luck with it.

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

[Rich Enders]

Frank,

I have an MM CU300. My short rip fence mounting bracket has the two brass adjustment screws referred to by Erik and they reference off the inside of the guide bar. As near as I can measure my rip fence remains parallel to the blade as I move it further around.

I also use the jointer fence for ripping. Its mounting bracket has a single adjustment screw that references off the outside of the guide bar. As part of your trouble shooting you might be able to pin point the cause of the problem by comparing the results using the two different fences, and the two different sides of the guide bar.

Didn't someone say these are opportunities not problems?

[glenn bradley]

Frank, can you post some pictures of this fence, attached to your machine? If I can see what you're working with, I can probably tell you how to make it work.

+1. I would expect the Mini Max to be of a quality that would take a repair quite well. something is obviously malfunctioning or damaged. I would repair the stock fence. Just my two cents.

[Frank Martin]

Frank,

I have an MM CU300. My short rip fence mounting bracket has the two brass adjustment screws referred to by Erik and they reference off the inside of the guide bar. As near as I can measure my rip fence remains parallel to the blade as I move it further around.

I also use the jointer fence for ripping. Its mounting bracket has a single adjustment screw that references off the outside of the guide bar. As part of your trouble shooting you might be able to pin point the cause of the problem by comparing the results using the two different fences, and the two different sides of the guide bar.

Didn't someone say these are opportunities not problems?

Great idea to check with the jointer fence. I had not thought about that option. I did not get a chance to work on this tonight, will likely get to it later this week.


+1. I would expect the Mini Max to be of a quality that would take a repair quite well. something is obviously malfunctioning or damaged. I would repair the stock fence. Just my two cents.

Fixing the stock fence is obviously a desirable option. The reason I started thinking about replacing it was because the fence profile was also not flat. So, I was thinking about replacing to whole setup but will decide after spending some more time with it.

[Erik Loza]

After thinking about this some more, I would suspect the brass stop screws first, then possibly the trueness of the steel guide bar. I cannot ever recall having a locking cam on one of these fail (though anything is possible). I can definitely see one or both of the set screws being worn out, worn out-of-flat, or even loose. Because brass is the softest of the three metals in this component group. I would also look closely at the face of the guide bar where the cam locks down, for any divots or irregular wear. In any event, none of this sounds hard to fix.

Please post up what you find.

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

[Frank Martin]

After thinking about this some more, I would suspect the brass stop screws first, then possibly the trueness of the steel guide bar. I cannot ever recall having a locking cam on one of these fail (though anything is possible). I can definitely see one or both of the set screws being worn out, worn out-of-flat, or even loose. Because brass is the softest of the three metals in this component group. I would also look closely at the face of the guide bar where the cam locks down, for any divots or irregular wear. In any event, none of this sounds hard to fix.

Please post up what you find.

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

Eric,

I will check this likely tomorrow. Despite being from 2006, this machine has actually never been used outside of the show demo where it was purchased. When I initially looked at the brass screws and other fence parts, they all looked good. I will check thoroughly again and post what I find. The reason I started thinking about replacing the entire fence assembly was because the fence profile was also not flat, hope I can get this resolved with the OEM option.

[Mike Hollingsworth]

Steel Guide bar is my guess also.