Your favorite Bowl Gouge?

[Brian Kent]

After 2 years I have used up my 1st Thompson Bowl Gouge (1/2" V-bowl gouge). It has lasted through hundreds of touch-up sharpenings.

What is your favorite size (outside diameter) bowl gouge? I may get the same size or try a 5/8" or 3/8".

I know the real answer - Buy them all :D! But for today… one.

[Dick Latshaw]

I find that I tend to use my 5/8 V on the outside of bowls, and mostly my 1/2 V on the inside, since it seems to give me more control. If I had to pick just one Thompson, I think I'd take the 1/2 V.

[Brian Kent]

I just looked through some old threads and was surprised to find how may turners like a 3/8" bowl gouge. I could afford a 3/8" and a 1/2" V Bowl gouge from Thompson. That might be a way to go, using what has worked already with a new size for more learning.

[Reed Gray]

Well,I do have a preference for the bigger and heavier tools. I like the Thompson steel, and do switch back and forth from the V to the U flute designs. I do some times switch to a smaller one on the insides, and they do seem to work a little better, but can't tell for sure. Some times it seems like it is the particular day rather than the tool. I do seem to prefer a more open flute design. The Glaser V gouge is way too closed for me. I do hold my gouges more level, and roll them on their sides for a higher shear angle.

And then there are the bottom feeder gouges......

robo hippy

[Fred Belknap]

Brian I have 1/2 and 5/8 inch bowl gouges that I use a lot. I like the 5/8" for the inside as it will work farther off the toolrest. Most of the time I use 1/2" on outside as I can move the toolrest pretty close to the wood. But I switch around sometime, depends if one is sharper than the other and if I happen to have it in my hand already. On smaller bowls I use 1/2" pretty much all the time. Hey I didn't help a bit.

[charlie knighton]

personally i like the Thompson shallow detail gouge the best, when i use it i am making the forms instead of just removing wood

[George Morris]

I use the Thompson V in 1/2" for most of my work. I do have a3/4 Thompson bowl gouge for roughing the outside. He makes some great tools!

[Bob Bergstrom]

I have from 1" down to 3/8" bowl gouges. 3/8" give a great finish cut or works fine on smaller or shallow bowls. 1/2" is a little wider in the nose and not as nice of a finish cut, and possibly more tear out. 5/8" is long and strong gouge. Great for roughing, good for deeper bowls the nose is increasing in width. From there up they are heavy use to remove as much wood as possible. It comes down to finding ways to use what you like to get the job down. Stuart Batty Uses a bowl gouge to turn furniture spindles. The 1/2" gouge may be a jack of all trade and master of none?

[Al Wasser]

I like the 5/8 Ellsworth the best, with a Thompson5/8 U a close second. The most useless bowl gouge I have is a Thompson 1/2 V gouge

[Brian Libby]

I use my 5/8 gouge the most followed by the 1/2

[Tom McMahon]

Brian, I would ask myself is there something I have wanted to do that I haven't been able to do with the 1/2 I had, if the answar was no I would get another 1/2, if the answer was yes I would try something new. I only have 1 bowl gouge and I don't even know what size it is. If I ever feel like I have conquered this one mabe I will need another one.

[John Thorson]

I use a 5/8 inch outside (1/2 inch flute) for roughing all but the very large bowls where I use a 3/4 inch (5/8 inch flute). I use the 5/8 inch gouge for the initial cuts of the second turning but from that point on I use the 1/2 inch outside (3/8 inch flute) for almost all of the finishing cuts. I have to admit that I am now hooked on a 60 degree standard grind for 'bowl bottoms'. If forced to pick only one gouge I guess it would be the 5/8 inch (1/2 inch flute).

I think of Thompson's V flute as one way to get a finer nose profile on a beefier tool, more important in finishing. You can compare the U and V flutes on the Thompson tools site, the 1/2 flute V gouge has a similar profile to the 3/8 flute U gouge.

We've invited Jim Sannerud (http://www.jsannerud.com/) down for a full-day event at our club and we'll be turning the bowls from start to finish with a 1/2 inch flute gouge so that is a 'second' to this "if I had to use one and only one gouge" pick.

[Brian Kent]

Tom, I have been able to do almost everything with one. I would ideally get another with a different grind. But since I have never tried another gouge, it is just curiosity that makes me ask.

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Brian,
You will only know by using another tool. Maybe you can find someone who uses other shapes that will let you try them. I have a 3/8" bowl gouge and use it mostly to remove tenons. It is too small for me to use inside a bowl because it doesn't like being hung over the tool rest very far. You don't make giant bowls as far as I see from your posts. 1/2" is a good size for up to 12" bowls. If you want to experiment with grinds, don't spend a lot of money. You will be hesitant to grind away precious metal. Buy a cheap 1/2" tool and grind away. When you know what grinds work for you, buy better steel. Even inexpensive HHS steel will be a good tool.
faust

[Brian Kent]

Faust, you are right. I have a Midi lathe so I never can go over 12". I would not even know where to get a cheaper gouge, since the Thompson tools are a pretty good buy, even with great steel.

[Joe Meirhaeghe]

Brian, unless your turning 24 / 7 you may want to consider taking a look at your sharpening methods. Using up a bowl gouge in 2 years seems unbelievable to me. I've been using the same Henry Taylor super flute bowl gouge since 1979 and it's still has probably 90 % of it's flute left to it.
I will admit that I do not take it to the grinder very often and I do not use it to hollow out bowls. However I've used it to shape hundreds of vessels & other turnings. I mostly use a hone to keep the edge.
Back to your question, I really like my 1/2" Henry Taylor super flute & Sorby 3/8" bowl gouges. I also use a Thompson 1/2" V & 3/8" D-Way from time to time.

[Harry Robinette]

I have all sizes of Thompson gouges most used all around bowl gouge 1/2 V with straight flat top wings no curve. If I got to go deep 5/8 V same wings.
Joe I think you need to go to the grinder more often.

[Brian Kent]

Joe, Doug Thompson estimates 50 touch-ups per inch, which is about what I estimate I get. I think with a cbn wheel I probably can get even more, since I hear it needs a very light touch. My most-used tools are the 1/2" Thompson V-Bowl Gauge and some scrapers. When I make a 9" x 4" bowl from eucalyptus I usually touch it up once at the beginning and once or twice more as needed. I am satisfied that I have gotten my money's worth out of this gouge.

[robert baccus]

I've always found the V shape flutes great for side or wing cutting--gotta long wing there. I am more at home with a U flute which seems superior for nose cutting and more versatile than the V flute. That's a lot of grinding but sharp is nice.

[Guy Belleman]

Like both the Thompson and Crown Ellsworth gouges I have, although when I reach for one, I most often pick up the 3/8 or 1/2 Crown.

[John Keeton]

Brian, as you have seen, this question will garner an endless array of responses. Hopefully, everyone will avoid the temptation to make this another tool war thread that will get it pulled.

FWIW, I started out with a Thompson 1/2" V, but eventually ended up with a D-Way 1/2" that I prefer - largely for the profile. I have two of those with identical grinds only to avoid going to the wheel so often. I have considered altering the profile on one of them just to experiment. I notice Reed has started another thread on flute profile and grind. I will watch that thread for ideas on perhaps trying another grind.

I also have a Thompson 1/2" U for a bottom feeder, though it doesn't get used much as I don't do many bowls. The bulk of my turning is done with the D-Way gouges, but I have a Thompson 3/8" V that I love. It is my "detail" bowl gouge, and is used for small radius curves on collars, etc. I would not want to do without that gouge, so in that regard, it is my favorite - not the one that gets used most, but my favorite. The sharper nose permits cuts that I don't think I could as easily achieve with any other size/profile.

I should add that at one time, I owned a 5/8" Thompson. It was too much gouge for the type of turning I do, but man would it hog off wood! I sold it as it was just not getting used.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

No one likes OneWay gouges? I like them....... I do have 5/8 Crown David Ellsworth PM, 2 Doug V gouges, and several Sorbys.... If I had to pick, I go with a 1/2" OneWay. The Crown would be second. Then the 5/8 OneWay.

[Scott Hackler]

I have a hoard of Thompsons and really like the edge they keep. But there is something about the Sorby 3/8" (UK measurement) that makes me keep grabbing it. I think it's because I learned on it and am used to it's flute. I will say that for a final cut (or two) I will go right to a 1/2" Thompson spindle or the 1/2" U. The edge and flute on these give me more control than the Sorby. I recently got the 1/2" U vs the V and do prefer it.

Now the Super Roughing Gouge.... That is a whole new beast! :) Boy does it round a log in a hurry! Expensive, but that is because Doug has to machine it from a solid piece of steel.

I have a D-Way beading tool and like it a lot. I would imagine the same steel it in Dave's gouges and they would probably be pretty nice.

This thread reminds me that I need to make a bunch more handles! :)

[Brian Kent]

I may be going for tool blasphemy and get the set of 3 Benjamin's Best bowl gouges for $54 at Penn State. That is a very inexpensive way to try out some of these grinds and sizes. At 3/8, 1/2, and 5/8, I have room to explore. They look like U profile and I currently have a V profile, so I can experience that too. I do not expect the same edge quality as any of them mentioned here, but I can try different grinds with my hands rather than with my theoretical brain and imagination. Then I can continue to get what I need one at a time from Doug Thompson or any of the above mentioned outstanding tools. The BB's also come with handles, though my BB scraper handles are very light weight wood.

[Reed Gray]

I had forgotten that I have an old Oneway gouge, 1/2 inch I think. Kind of stubby now. I don't use it much though. I do use it at times for the transition. I do have one of their spindle gouges that I ground into a bottom feeder type gouge. It works really well.

robo hippy

[Brian Kent]

Looks like very decent prices on the Oneways too. Am I seeing correctly that they are ground on both ends, at least in the Japanwoodworker photo?

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Looks like very decent prices on the Oneways too. Am I seeing correctly that they are ground on both ends, at least in the Japanwoodworker photo?

They have single and double ended gouges. I grind my 1/2" so 1 end is my bottom feeder.

[Jeffrey J Smith]

I've been using D-Way gouges for the last four years - they've got a great flute profile and keep an edge. I rough with the 5/8". and finish with the 1/2" more often than not, with the 3/8" used for smaller projects. I've got the 5/8" and 1/2" ground to both a moderately swept back profile (closer to a 40-40 grind) and keep another of each with a traditional grind as a bottom feeder or to use on tear-out prone figured woods outside. The M-42 steel keeps a good edge and is a good combination with CBN wheels for sharpening.

[David Turner]

I like the only one I have. It is a 3/8" fingernail grind Sorby bowl gouge.

Are we supposed to have more than one?

David Turner
Plymouth, MI.

[Brian Kent]

No David. All turners would agree that each of us is only allowed one gouge. When we use it up completely we can buy one more. ;)

[Thomas Canfield]

Lots of choices out there. I have not jumped in earlier but over the weekend I roughed out some 10 to 11" bowls using a 3/8" Crown PM bowl gouge just to say I did. A 3/8" gouge is about all you need for the reach with a mini lathe and for bowls under 12 since the reach is within the capability of the gouge. I do use a 58" on larger bowls, and have a 3/4" Thompson U purchased when the 5/8" could not reach using my straight tool rest. I later got a curved tool rest that will not require the larger gouge. My 1/2" Henry Tylor David Ellsworth has been my favorite and go to gouge, but it is about to the end of its flute. I have purchased a replacement, but it is not the same. I also have both the Thompson 5/8" U and V, but have not got comfortable with them - they just feel different with my style of turning. I also have a little 1/4" Benjamin Best that I use unhandled to be able to undercut the rim on bowls to avoid the handle issue when reaching across the lathe - have not tried reverse turning as some have suggested for that cut. I do think that I get more than 50 touch up sharpenings per inch and I am using a Norton 3X 80 grit wheel dressed with the Wolverine diamond dresser. Before the Oneway diamond dresser I could not get a dressed wheel and ground off a lot more steel.

[Thom Sturgill]

Brian, two of my favorites are Doug's 'Jimmy Clewes' V gouges. They are a tighter V than the regular gouges and do clog more, but provide great wings for shear cutting. I have both 1/2" and 3/8" and the 38 is ground slightly sharper than 40degrees at the nose. I also use a 5/8" Crown Ellsworth heavily.

[Bob Bergstrom]

Brian, two of my favorites are Doug's 'Jimmy Clewes' V gouges. They are a tighter V than the regular gouges and do clog more, but provide great wings for shear cutting. I have both 1/2" and 3/8" and the 38 is ground slightly sharper than 40degrees at the nose. I also use a 5/8" Crown Ellsworth heavily.
Here's a great shear cutter for the outside of bowls that are prone to chip out with use of bowl gouges. Ray Key use to use a 3/8" spindle gouge to shear the outside of his boxes. This is a Thompson 5/8" spindle gouge ground back about 2" on a CBN wheel. It can shear off whisp of a shaving or cut off ribbons. The long straight blade won't dig in like a swept back bowl gouge. The wood is cut along the long edge giving the wood plenty of edge to gently slice itself off the blank.

[John Grace]

Reed...

I've seen that phrase, 'bottom feeder gouge', in other threads...can you explain that one for me? Much appreciate...John

[Reed Gray]

John,
I do show one in use if you go to You Tube and type in robo hippy. It is kind of a catch phrase for a specialized gouge for getting through the transition and going across the bottom of the bowl. A 45 degree bevel can do a bevel rubbing cut down the inside of a bowl to a point, especially if it is more flat, or anything flatter than a 45 degree cone. Any steeper, and you can't do a bevel rubbing cut all the way down. This is where a flatter bevel comes in. I prefer mine in the 70 degree range. I use a fluteless gouge, and a spindle gouge which are ground with a nose profile like this ), so more blunt and not pointy at all. Best used rolled over on the side for a high shear angle cut. A more U shaped fluted gouge, or even C shaped flutes are ground again with very little sweep, and a 60 or so degree bevel. These tend to be used more with the flutes up (rather than rolled on the side), and you cut pretty much with the bottom center of the gouge, not up on the wing as it will want to roll and catch. They can all go through the inside of any concave/curves inwardward shape. On the outside of any convex/curves outward shape, the bevel doesn't really make much difference because you are always cutting near the tip. Note also that on most interior bowl gouges, half or more of the heel is ground off. This keeps a sharp heel on the bevel from contacting the wood and leaving marks and bruising. It also keeps the cutting edge closer to the bevel rubbing spot. Better control.

robo hippy

robo hippy

[Brian Kent]

The inexpensive Benjamin's Best gouges arrived today, so I look forward to some grind experimentation this week. I have always used Doug Thompson's grinding advice on the Thompson 1/2" V-Bowl Gouge. The BB's are 3/8, 1/2, and 5/8" U Bowl Gouges.

I think I'll start with the 5/8" ground as a bottom feeder. Maybe 60 degrees with very little sweep? I'll try the 3/8" as a fingernail grind at the same angle as my Thompson set-up, just to see what a smaller gouge feels like. I don't know what I want to try differently with the 1/2".

[Bill Hensley]

My suggestion based on some sharping experiments today and my standard sharpening preference:
5/8 at 55 degrees as a general purpose gouge
1/2 at 65 degrees for the bottom feeder, no sweep needed. You'll be surprised how smooth it does the transition to and across the bottom
3/8 at 45 degrees for wider bowls, touch ups and detail work.

If you have a Wolverine system you can use wooden dowels to set your arm length to wheel, with tip extended out of the holding jig at 2.5", dowel length 7.25" = 45 degrees, 7.5" - 7.75" ~ 55, 8" ~ 65 degrees.

Does that make sense?

[Bill Wyko]

My new Glaser Synergy QR system. I don't have all the attachments yet but I will eventually. IMHO this system is years ahead of anything else bu that just my opinion.

[Brian Kent]

If you have a Wolverine system you can use wooden dowels to set your arm length to wheel, with tip extended out of the holding jig at 2.5", dowel length 7.25" = 45 degrees, 7.5" - 7.75" ~ 55, 8" ~ 65 degrees.
Does that make sense?
Bill, are you saying you set the distance using the dowel, remove the dowel, then use the Wolverine jig with the tip extended a given length?

[Bill Hensley]

Yes, set the dowel in the pocket and adjust the bar until the dowel (just) contacts the grinding wheel. All grinds are based on tool tip extending out 2.5" and grind angles are approximate.

I should also mention I use the 8" CBN, I'm guessing smaller or worn wheels will probably cause a decrease in the grind angle.

[Brian Kent]

Thank you, Bill. I will use the idea and experiment a little until I am getting the angles on my 6"wheel.