Please recommend a kiln drying book

[Craig D Peltier]

I'm going to be buying two 40 foot storage containers to turn into kilns. Would like to read up on my options. They will be drying slabs for the most part. So can't be too fast, maple western likes to move a lot.
One thing I heard that I didn't know about was that when cutting walnut, slab it, let it sit slabbed for one month before putting in kiln in order for it to keep it's color. A cutter told me he read this in his kiln book. Things like this I want to know as well as how to build.
I mean I know I can sticker it and put fans it and vents but I want a little better than that.

Thanks for any suggestions on books or where to go.

[peter gagliardi]

You will get all the info you need from the folks at Nyle kilns in Maine. They also make an EXCELLENT small to medium dehumidification kiln that is easy to use with little degrade.

[Danny Hamsley]

I have a Nyle L53 Dehumidification kiln, and it is a little wood drying beast.

Here is a very good reference that you need to read.

http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgtr/fplgtr118.pdf

[Dennis Nagle]

I found this on the Nyle site. Good read too.

http://www.nyle.com/downloads/KilnDrying.pdf

[Larry Edgerton]

I have a copy of the USDA manual. It is very informative. Would recommend, but finding a copy was not easy but can be done.

Larry

[Craig D Peltier]

Thanks for the help. I downloaded the 2 pdfs.

[Scott T Smith]

Craig, there is no single best source. The Nyle, USDA, and VT Solar Kiln manuals are all beneficial. Gene Wenger'ts book "Drying Hardwood Lumber" is also a good read.

You will encounter some different challenges with drying slabs than what is normally encountered with drying 4/4 lumber. For one thing, you will need to come up with a system to add moisture back into your kiln, as some of the kiln runs may take several months and the wood will dry too quickly if RH% is not closely managed in the kiln.

Shipping containers are ok for slabs, but are not a good choice for drying traditional lumber due to air flow issues. Your best bet would be to build something along the plans that Nyle sells. Nyle's current L200 type units and advanced controllers are GREAT.

[Craig D Peltier]

Craig, there is no single best source. The Nyle, USDA, and VT Solar Kiln manuals are all beneficial. Gene Wenger'ts book "Drying Hardwood Lumber" is also a good read.

You will encounter some different challenges with drying slabs than what is normally encountered with drying 4/4 lumber. For one thing, you will need to come up with a system to add moisture back into your kiln, as some of the kiln runs may take several months and the wood will dry too quickly if RH% is not closely managed in the kiln.

Shipping containers are ok for slabs, but are not a good choice for drying traditional lumber due to air flow issues. Your best bet would be to build something along the plans that Nyle sells. Nyle's current L200 type units and advanced controllers are GREAT.

Thanks , currently the kiln it goes in is airy, run off sawdust for heat, steam induced and fans running. Pretty simple it works slowly, well for Teak which is most of there business..

[Scott T Smith]

Thanks , currently the kiln it goes in is airy, run off sawdust for heat, steam induced and fans running. Pretty simple it works slowly, well for Teak which is most of there business..

This is the best model that I know of for drying thick slabs. The main thing is to go slow, and keep it humid with temps around 90 degrees. Usually you will only want to drop RH% by about 1/4% per day for a 3" - 4" thick slab, depending upon the species. Start off around 97 - 99% RH. You will need to coat your slabs before loading with a fungicide such as Premier too, or they will mold up a storm.

[Ed Aumiller]

check out woodwebs sawing & drying... gene wengert moderates it...