Does anybody have plans or pictures of shop-built Powermatic 66 motor cover

[Brian Cole]

Greetings,

I am hooking up a dust collector to a PM 66 (late 1980's model). The saw has no motor cover, among other DC challenges, and I need to add one. The plastic cover the manufacturer sells for $90+ is kinda pricey, flimsy, and doesn't seal well according to SMC posts. I searched the forum and couldn't find a picture or plans, but I figure someone here has built one and might be willing to share. Chris Rosenberger posted pics of restored PM66 on SMC including shop-built motor cover on SMC but all the pics have been moved or deleted. Any ideas, feedback, suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks.

[Don Jarvie]

I made one shaped like a square out of sheet metal. Its not pretty by keeps the dust inside the saw.

[Bradley Gray]

281185281186281187A quick and dirty version made from scrap 3/4 ply for the sides and kerf-bent 1/4 for the front. Note the chair repair brackets I used screwed to existing tapped holes in the saw base.

[Brian Cole]

Thanks Bradley - nice work. Did you use weatherstripping or something similar to seal the box to the cabinet. Do you think you the motor is getting enough air to stay cool?

[Doug Ladendorf]

I like that Brad. Nice elegant solution.

I ended up getting a deal on the PM2000 motor cover and used that. It fit fine with the 2HP Baldor single phase motor. I had to fabricate a hinge for the pins to slip into and fastened that to the existing holes for the OEM motor cover. I think with any solution you will need to seal the edges to get suction at the blade.
Doug

[Bradley Gray]

Brian,
I did not use weatherstripping.There are other air leaks on my saw such as the arced slot that allows the height wheel to tilt. My dust collection goes through the floor and I get a canyon of settled dust around the 4" pipe. If left too long, I have had dust build up and block air flow around the motor. Other than that, no motor cooling issues.

[John McClanahan]

I have a 1986 PM66 with a factory motor cover. It is a simple metal box with mostly square corners, a flat bottom and nothing to "seal" it. If you are using a dust collector any leaks will cause a draft inside to help draw the dust away from the motor area. Remember, you don't want it air tight, or the dust won't be drawn away.

John

[Kevin Sweet]

281228Found this about a yr ago and spent a lot time searching thru it to find ways to improve my new to me saw and it sems only fitting that i make my first comment/reply on the same topic that got me started. I picked up a late 80's PM66 last year and after much internet surfing and internal debate I just went ahead and ordered one from PM. Yes, a little pricey for a piece of molded plastic but 15 minutes after opening the box I had it installed. No issues with the air seal being poor as others have mentioned. I am curious what steps you took to improve the dust collection. I ended up using some hvac fittings and insulation board to make a chute to funnel the dust to the port in the back. Also stuffed some pipe insulation underneath the saw to help seal the bottom. It's not perfect but with this, the motor cover, and a ZCI I went from getting maybe 5% of the dust to around 85%, give or take.

[Brian Cole]

Thanks to all who have responded. Kevin, I can't offer any "proven" dust collection enhancements because I haven't hooked my dust collector up to the saw yet. But, based on advice here on the Creek, I plan to seal the cabinet which sits in a mobile base by putting in a "floor" , adding the motor cover, closing off the 4" factory dust port on the back of the saw which is partially obstructed by the mobile base, sealing the blade tilt crank opening with magnetic sign material, and cutting a new 6" dust port on the cabinet hooked to a few feet of 6" flex hose from my 7" steel duct. I'll seal other openings as necessary and eventually would like to add an overarm dust collector/blade guard. Any feedback/suggestions would be welcome.

[Charles McKinley]

Hi Brian,

All my pictures are on a computer I rarely get to now. I scrounged a piece of HVAC duct that was curved almost like it was built to be the motor cover. I built a false floor from fiberglass sheeting like is used on commercial bathroom walls. It rested on the ledge where the "foot" and the cabinet meet.

A 6 inch hole was cut in the back. The plastic pipe fitting was glued to the cabinet

The easiest way to cover up the tilt slot in the front of the saw is with magnetic sign material like the type put on car doors.

I think it was a Biesmier (sp?) over arem gard with a splitter. The splitter requires slight modification and has to be bolted and unbolted but works well.

Sadly the saw was sold many moons ago. :( I hope the new owned enjoys it.

Pester me about the pics. I should be able to find them.

[Bradley Gray]

Something to keep in mind is without a blade guard with dust pickup you will not get all the dust, as some of the larger particles will ride the gullets and come out the top. To me, more CFM is better than sealing the cabinet.

[Brian Cole]

Thanks Bradley and Chuck. Bradley my cfm will determined by my Grizzly 3 HP cyclone and duct. I am running 8 to 7" mains and 7" drops branching off to the tool ports. All my large power tools are on mobile bases and are older, lacking proper dust ports. I plan to build hoods and connect the drops to the tools with 6" flex hose, splitting duct runs as needed for multi-port tools (e.g., 6" cabinet port and 4" overarm blade port on table saw). Bought the Grizzly used and am installing a dust collector and duct for the first time. I removed the filter from the cyclone and will vent outside. Wish me luck. Thanks.

[Cody Armstrong]

Here's a pic of an original motor cover.
281237
I can't help with sealing everything off. I used the original port on the cabinet. I knew it wouldn't do much as far as pulling dust off the top is concerned but it saves from having to clean-out from under the saw and does help a little.
I chose the Felder setup. I wanted something as least obtrusive as possible. I bought the thinnest riving knife they had. I'm very happy with this. It works well.
I had to highly modify the riving knife. It was much longer. I probably cut almost half off to fit on the PM66. I had to use a bench grinder and 41/2 angle grinder to make the modifications. Couldn't cut it with a hacksaw it is hardened steel.
281245281246
Since the knife is not made for this saw I couldn't get the top of it parallel with the top of the saw table. That seemed to work to my advantage.
281249281250Works extremely well with a crosscut sled. The angle of the dust collector lets it ride up as the sled is pushed.
No hose clamps to fool with. The wire enforced tube from Felder holds the connection in place when DC is not on.
281251281258
Hope some of this helps you out. I went through the same last year with the PM66 searching for the DC setup I wanted. There was nothing here regarding the PM66.

Cody

[Brian Cole]

Thanks Cody. Chuck, I found a picture of your 6" dust port on this forum, but would like to see your motor cover and overarm dust collection set up if you find those pictures.

[Charles McKinley]

Hi Brian,

Mine was very similar to Bradley's but sheet metal. Here is a link to the overarm guard but it has sold. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?212317-Biesemeyer-overarm-blade-guard-amp-Leecraft-zero-clearance-insert

I'll get the pics tomorrow.

[Tim Connor]

I know this is an older thread, but I'm refurbishing a 1983 PM 66 and setting it up for a ClearVue dust collection system. There's an excellent article in Fine Woodworking June 2009 on how to set up direction within a tablesaw to move dust out of the inside completely. We have used the approaches there to redirect air through the saw in several places to move dust down to a new, 6" outlet at the base of the saw. We had to build a frame to raise it up about 3 inches to do that, but it should work. I'll let anyone who's interested know how it works out.

[Tom M King]

I made a wooden box with grooves that a 12"x12" furnace flter slides into. It provides air intake for the DC, pulls air over the motor, and doesn't allow anything to get thrown out.

[Jesse Busenitz]

306119

Just built this a couple months ago..... used 1/4 ply for the curved piece. Had my mom cut out the decals on her digital cutter for the finishing touch:cool:

[Richard Precht]

281228Found this about a yr ago and spent a lot time searching thru it to find ways to improve my new to me saw and it sems only fitting that i make my first comment/reply on the same topic that got me started. I picked up a late 80's PM66 last year and after much internet surfing and internal debate I just went ahead and ordered one from PM. Yes, a little pricey for a piece of molded plastic but 15 minutes after opening the box I had it installed. No issues with the air seal being poor as others have mentioned. I am curious what steps you took to improve the dust collection. I ended up using some hvac fittings and insulation board to make a chute to funnel the dust to the port in the back. Also stuffed some pipe insulation underneath the saw to help seal the bottom. It's not perfect but with this, the motor cover, and a ZCI I went from getting maybe 5% of the dust to around 85%, give or take.

Kevin, Do you have the part number and how much did it cost to get this motor cover? I just found a 1980's PM 66 that I am going to probably be able to buy for $500.00 it has the long fence rails and is a 3HP single phase. I will probably do a restoration when I get it home. I tried to upload a picture of the saw but it did not upload?

[Martin Wasner]

If you are using a dust collector any leaks will cause a draft inside to help draw the dust away from the motor area. Remember, you don't want it air tight, or the dust won't be drawn away.

Exactly. If you were to seal up the box it won't move any air. If the air doesn't move, it won't move any sawdust.

[Eric Commarato]

one for sale over at OWWM.org