HELP!!! powermatic 66 motor pulley

[jerod goodman]

I recently replaced the motor on my 1971 powermatic 66. The new motor I put on was a 145tc and has a 7/8 shaft rather than the 5/8 on the old 56c motor. I tried to have a machinist bore my 3 groove pulley to fit the new motor and he screwed it up. His bore is not concentric and the pulley wobbles itself loose. I really need to find a source to get the correct pulley. I have tried local stores such as Grainger, Unlaub, and IDP. Nobody has anything remotely similar. Can someone please tell me where to get a good used pulley or find a new one.

[John McClanahan]

ebay has a few parts. You could have your pulley bored out more (and straight) and a sleeve pressed in it. If all else fails, you could probably get by ok with a 2 groove pulley, if you can find one.

John

[Benjamin Miller]

Have you checked McMaster-Carr at mcmaster.com? They have more hardware items than any store I've ever seen.

That machinist should replace or repair the pulley for you. He should have indicated it in several places along the outside diameter to ensure concentricity, then bored the inside hole with a boring bar. It can probably still be salvaged by boring another true hole, inserting a bushing with an interference fit, and boring the bushing.

[Benjamin Miller]

I should add that you should put a location on your profile. There are many people here with machinist capabilities, and if you were in Iowa, I'd be happy to help.

[Doug Ladendorf]

Man that stinks big time. To have a difficult part to source screwed up. You will probably need to go with a 2-groove pulley. The third was really a belt and suspenders approach and many run their 66 with two (as they were later made). If you want an older Powermatic part Redmond Machinery may have one.
Doug

[Rich Riddle]

I have never experienced any problem with finding sheaves that will fit a motor. What sizes are the pulley wheels you need replaced on the three wheel pulley?

[Rick Lizek]

You don't need a three groove pulley. That goes back to the days of over building unnecessarily. In the 80s they went to a two groove pulley. Even that was overkill. I've been working repairing and installing European sliding panel saws that only have one belt and some belts are only 3/8" wide with 9 hp motors and 18 inch blades and there is no slippage whatsoever. I' seen many 66's and Unisaws that running on one belt as the other two broken and fallen off and no one noticed until the last one broke. Try a single pulley and I doubt you will miss the other two belts...

[Rich Riddle]

The Powermatic 66 shipped with differing motors with different shaft sizes. That sheave part number for the 7/8" bore is 3717060 and can be found on page 14 (diagram) and page 15 (part number) of the manual. Indicate the diameter and width of each pulley slot.

Here is a link to a 7/8" triple sheave for a Grizzly though it could possible work, BUT you need to measure the outside diameter, etc. This is a 3 1/2" outside diameter pulley. http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-G5520-Triple-V-Groove-Pulley/dp/B0000DD48Q (http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-G5520-Triple-V-Groove-Pulley/dp/B0000DD48Q)

If at all possible, I strongly favor utilizing the three belt system. It might be over-engineered, but that can be a good thing.

Also realize the Delta Unisaw, newer Powermatics, Jet, Grizzly, etc. all employed a 3 pulley system. If you can get one of the newer manuals for those systems, they will likely have active part numbers. You actually are NOT trying to get a Powermatic 66 part, you are simply trying to get a motor pulley (sheave). Those are quite interchangeable between manufacturers as long as you find the correct diameter. If your pulley is 3 1/2" outside diameter like the Grizzly, you're already in luck.

[Peter Quinn]

Have you tried WMH parts, or who ever owns them now? Recently sold. We've had fair success getting oem parts on older machines, though admittedly not that old. Might be worth a phone call.

[Chris Fournier]

A decent manual machinist could repair your original piece without too much trouble.

[jerod goodman]

The pulley is 3.4" diameter and runs 1/2" belts. the problem Ive run into with pulleys like they have at Grainger is that the belts on the new pulleys are space further apart so that the overall width is almost 1/2" wider.

[jerod goodman]

Tried the Grizzly pulley. belts dont line up. I have it running two belts but I dont think they are as straight as they need to be. With this pulley the saw seems underpowered and I get alot more burn and saw marks than I should, even just cutting 3/4 soft maple. I think I will try setting it up with a single pulley until i can get a machinist to fix my original. Really questioning my decision to by such an old saw at this point.

[John McClanahan]

If your new pulley has a collar on one end where the set screws are located, you can turn the pulley around and have the set screws near the end of the shaft, if that would help with alignment. If the new pulley is the same diameter as the old one the power should be the same. The burn marks sound like the table and/or fence needs to be re-aligned to the blade.

John

[Don Jarvie]

Here's a link to the Surplus Center. Buy a double pulleys for each shaft, arbor and motor. I bought one of each so I wouldn't have any issue with them lining up since they are made by the same manufacturer. You can use the one on the saw arbor for the outside diameter. Its worth buying new belts since your getting new pulleys. If you have any more questions let me know.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Pulleys/Finished-Bore-Pulleys/?page_no=1&fq=ATR_Grooves:2

I swapped out the 3 phase motor when I got my 66 and the new motor was a 56c so I got a 5/8 pulley for the motor and a 7/8 (I think) for the saw arbor.