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Mike Allen1010
01-28-2014, 12:17 PM
For those who haven’t seen my earlier posts on this project, this is part four of a hand tool build of a cherry chest-on-chest from Glen Huey’s excellent book “Building Early American Furniture” (or something like that – exact title in previous post). Nothing fancy, just basic hand tool build pictures – which I personally always enjoy when others post them.

This build has been 95% hand tools since my bandsaw bit the dust (broken blade guide my Dad swears he can “braise” back together. I have no idea what “Braising” is - I’m probably not even spelling it right. But I love my Dad and if he wants to fix it I’ll wait).

If you'll excuse a brief digression for an explanation; I guess the reason I’m posting these build picture/descriptions, particularly here in the Cave, is I started woodworking as a kid during the 70’s in my Dad’s garage. My Dad is strictly a power tool guy – back then mostly woefully underpowered, benchtop Sears Craftsman tools (think radial arm saw, belt sander etc.) and that’s what I learned to use.

When I was younger with small kids, I gave up woodworking because I didn’t have any stationary power tools and I didn’t know that one could have fun and build nice projects using only hand tools. The first time I used a sharp, well-tuned handsaw (courtesy of my neighbor a crusty retired Navy Seabee), it was a revelation to me to discover I didn’t need a table saw! I could do everything I wanted with hand tools quickly (and frankly more accurately than with my crappy 7” benchtop table saw.)

Over the last 15 years, I’ve used almost exclusively hand tools, except for a bandsaw and I have never enjoyed woodworking more. I’m a self-taught, strictly recreational woodworker with a family and a full-time job. I’m posting this build because I hope it will encourage others about the possibility of hand tool woodworking.

In the other posts I finished the upper and lower case and the ogee bracket feet. This post is adding the solid top to the chest and moldings. Here are some pictures of an 8/4 cherry slab that I dimensioned and re-sawed for the book matched top.
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Before that this much ripping a little tune-up of the D-8 thumb hole was called for. Restoring, sharpening and tuning of vintage saws that has been neglected is a lot of work – I usually need to reshape the tooth line into a nice breasted curve, and re-profile the teeth (for a big rip saw like this I go with 5° of rake, 5° of fleam and 25° gullet angle’s. IMHO the correct set is crucial. Even .005” too much set makes for a much slower and less accurate cuts than a well-tuned saw). However, sharpening an already tuned saw is about 20 minutes and before this much ripping I think is well worth the effort. Ripping this plank took about 10 minutes and required fairly nominal tune-up with the jointer plane:

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Mike Allen1010
01-28-2014, 12:23 PM
I generally dimensioned glued up panels before surface planing.
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Like to use a shop made single iron Jack/scrub plane with a healthy camber for initial surfacing, here’s the finished surface:

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Here’s the template for the cornice molding from Matt Bickford book and the layout:

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For me the most time-consuming part of making moldings is cutting all the rabbits – if I ever got a table saw with Dado blades, this would be the reason.

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Mike Allen1010
01-28-2014, 12:27 PM
I’ve tuned some old molding planes I got from David Weaver. The toughest part for me was profiling the cutting edge of the irons to match the sole of the plane. I tried painting the irons with Dykem to mark the parts of the iron that needed to be re-ground, but always had trouble getting accurate marking. Now I seat the blade in the plane and use a hard slip stone to knockoff the protruding edges of the iron and then sharpen.
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I haven’t gotten around to building a sticking board for planing moldings. I clamped them in the dogs along the edge of the workbench and then use bench hold downs to clamp a board behind the molding so it doesn’t slide during planing.
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Here are some pictures of the dentil molding that’s one of the three molded edges that make up the cornice. I had to re-saw these to the correct thickness. I start the cut, just like tennon cheeks, with the smaller, 6 PPI rip saw. Once the kerf is established with the panel saw, I finish the re-saw with a 28” inch, 5 PPI bow saw holding the stock vertically in a bench vice. Frankly for me “panel style” saws are much easier to use accurately than bow saws, – it’s really easy for me to wander off the layout line with the bow saw. However the narrow, 28 inch long, well-tensioned bow saw blade lets me get away with less set which makes this resawing faster/easier

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Mike Allen1010
01-28-2014, 12:31 PM
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Finally here’s some pictures of the completed and installed moldings.

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Next step for me will be turning the quartered, fluted columns and capitals that fit along the vertical face of the upper and lower cases. I’ve never done any turning before so I’m sure this will be a real “adventure”!

I’m really looking forward to building the drawers, which is in more of my woodworking sweet spot and usually a lot of fun. I’ll post more pictures when I make progress.

All the best, Mike

jamie shard
01-28-2014, 1:27 PM
The toughest part for me was profiling the cutting edge of the irons to match the sole of the plane. I tried painting the irons with Dykem to mark the parts of the iron that needed to be re-ground, but always had trouble getting accurate marking. Now I seat the blade in the plane and use a hard slip stone to knockoff the protruding edges of the iron and then sharpen.

Doh! Great idea. So simple and obvious but I've only seen folks use the dykem approach!

Christopher Charles
01-28-2014, 8:45 PM
Hello Mike,

Thanks for posting, loving following along. Great reminder that beautiful work can be made with relatively modest hand tools! Thanks for the inspiration.

Cheers,
C

Andrew Hughes
01-28-2014, 11:47 PM
Looking good mike, the cherry still looks dry are you still going to use the Behlens finish?This really is the best weather for building a finish.Have you bought your drawer stock yet.

Mike Allen1010
01-29-2014, 12:41 PM
Thanks Jamie and Chris for the comments– much appreciated.

Hi Andrew, when I got the lumber for this project I set out all the rough boards to pick the best stock based on matching figure, grain pattern etc. for all the major components including the drawers. I was able to get the roughly dimensioned drawer fronts out of two single boards with some nice figure that I hope will look attractive. I really enjoyed building and fitting "pocket", flush front drawersso will have to resist the temptation to move forward with that so I can do be turned, fluted columns which will be a first for me.

I'm waiting to complete the build components before I start the finishing work. I'm planning to use a dye to get an "aged cherry" color– I would welcome your suggestions about what you think would look good?. I was then thinking about some oil to bring out the figure and then probably shellac for the final surface finish. I really like the depth I get with shellac, but I'm not sure if it will be durable enough – guess it depends on how much single malt I spill on it!

One thing I'm not sure about is the finishing sequence for the drawers. The secondary wood for drawer sides/back/bottoms is popular. I will use half blind dovetails in the front, through dovetails in the back. Normally I would finish the drawer fronts before assembly to avoid discoloring the poplar, which will get a shellac finish.

The wrinkle is the drawers will have cock beading applied slightly proud of the drawer front surface. These will need to go on after drawer assembly (I guess?). I'm still trying to decide if I will ebonize the cherry cock beading– or leave it the same color/finish as the rest of the chest. I was thinking the ebonized cock beating might help frame some of the nicely figured boards I'll use for drawer fronts, but it might just end up looking like a big "gap" around all the drawers – what do you think?

Thanks for the comments, advice and suggestions!

Mike

Andrew Hughes
01-29-2014, 9:48 PM
The reason I was asking about the finish was the weather looks like it's going to change,Most woodworker don't seem to think it matters but I do.I was thinking you may want to start closing out the cells of your cherry before it starts sucking the moist air that may be coming.
I use trans tint dyes but only on small stuff.The big pieces are harder to control the color.
I think oil is nice with cherry and shellac on top is more durable than just oil.
You do know the drawers don't need finish past the fronts,I think its nice the smell the wood in the drawer or something aromatic.

I would be interested in trading some cedar of Lebanon for saw sharpening service.i could send a sample for you to consider.

Mike Allen1010
01-30-2014, 1:35 PM
Thanks Andrew for the suggestion, I hadn't thought about the effect of rain/high humidity on finishing, but it makes sense.

I'd be happy to tune up a saw for you, might take me a while to get around to it but certainly doable. Send me a PM and I'm sure we can work some out – who isn't interested in new wood!

All the best, Mike