The best hobbyist router table

[Wells Griffith]

Hey guys,
I have been doing lots of research the last month and it is hilariously shocking how much you can spend on a router table!

I got an amazing deal on a Triton TRA001 3.25hp (110.00 new) and did not realize I would have to spend 5 times that to get a table!!!!!!!!

So for the hobbyist, are these tables that have only .0001" of deflection necessary?

Anyone have any good suggestions of hobbyist affordable router tables?

Thanks so much!

[Jason White]

Rockler has a pretty nice one with steel legs on sale right now. Check their website or the mail flyer (if you get one).

[johnny means]

Have you considered building one? You can cheaply build a much better table than you can buy. Most commercially available tables are pretty light weight, offer no storage or dust collection. Two sheets off melamine can make an awesome stand, top, and fence at a fraction of the cost.

[joseph f merz]

make it ,make two , make it the way you like and change at you go . make the first one simple then as you see what you like and actually need add it . the top can be plywood with wax or poly . put a frame under it to make stable and keep it flat . enjoy the fun. there are router forums with loads of ideas .

[Rick Moyer]

http://www.amazon.com/Bench-Dog-40-001-Contractor-Benchtop/dp/B00002242E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1390486091&sr=8-1&keywords=benchdog+router+table

I've been using this one for quite a few years now. I plop it on my bench. it's a little tall that way but I'm not running heavy stuff on it. I also cut a 4" hole in the side and connect it to my cyclone, no dust left in the cabinet! May not be ideal but it's been working for me.

[Prashun Patel]

I suggest you buy or build a cheap table first. Use it. You will learn within months how important certain convenience features are to you (above table bit adjustment, micro-height adjustment, micro-fence adjustment, stops, etc.) These are the things you might or might not want to pay for (in terms of effort to build or $$ to buy).

I wouldn't downplay the importance of flatness and deflection. You need your table to be flat (at least convex at the plate) so that profiles and grooves are routed consistently through the length. You don't need to go to machinist tolerances unless you like to geek out, but you DO need a table that won't sag over time. Your big-mama router will want to sag. You need a properly thick table, and a properly constructed plate (if you buy a table).

[Wells Griffith]

Yeah thanks for all the responses.

My hesitation on building a table was that everything would not be 100% square which would in turn make everything i use the table for not 100% square.

However, I think I am just going to take the leap and make one.

Thanks again for the help.

[Sara Goeking]

Just to reiterate what several others said: build your own. The first thing I built in my shop (3 years ago) was my router table and it's still my favorite piece in the shop. Wish I had a picture with me to share, but since I don't I'll just describe the features/design aspects that really worked.

I started with a picture of Norm's New Yankee table and then set my own dimensions (24" x 30", and same height as my table saw) and configuration of drawers vs. shelves. The carcase is 3/4 plywood with a Doug-fir face frame. The top half has 2 mini-drawers (about 4" tall) on both left and right; the center is just the router compartment. Two of the mini-drawers have built-in trays with dozens of holes for bits (both 1/2" and 1/4" sizes). I bought a laminated MDF table from an online vendor along with an insert plate, a fence, and a dust port. The actual top is attached to the carcase top, which also was 3/4" ply and is supported by the front, back, sides, and 2 intermediate uprights (they enclose the drawers/router compartment). I added a safety switch mounted to the front right underside of the tabletop. The whole thing sits on a mobile base - this allows me to move it behind my table saw and use as an outfeed table (this works for both routing and sawing support), but it can also sit flat when in "router mode".

This cost me very little - the top was the most expensive part - and serves me very well. Good luck finding/making your table!

[Andrew Joiner]

In 1975 I screwed and old router to the bottom of a scrap of 1/2 fir plywood. I never checked it for sag or flatness, because the first test cut was perfect. For years I made good money and sold a lot of nice woodwork made with that set up. I thought I was a frugal innovator. Years later I saw a router table in a catalog and chuckled at the price.

Now on my newest deluxe router table, I splurged. I used 3/4" birch plywood with the crowned face up. My 2 biggest routers have 3/8 acrylic plates on them to drop tightly into a rabbeted cut-out in the router table top. I use a sled to avoid miter gauge grooves. Simple,cheap and I still giggle at all the lifts and tables in catalogs.

Things I made with my 1975 table look identical to things I make on my deluxe table today.

Nothing wrong with buying a router table. However you can build one fast, almost for free and have fun doing it.

[Mike Shields]

Don't rule out finding a nice used on your local CL...

[Bill Whig]

In 1975 I screwed and old router to the bottom of a scrap of 1/2 fir plywood. I never checked it for sag or flatness, because the first test cut was perfect. For years I made good money and sold a lot of nice woodwork made with that set up. I thought I was a frugal innovator. Years later I saw a router table in a catalog and chuckled at the price.

Now on my newest deluxe router table, I splurged. I used 3/4" birch plywood with the crowned face up. My 2 biggest routers have 3/8 acrylic plates on them to drop tightly into a rabbeted cut-out in the router table top. I use a sled to avoid miter gauge grooves. Simple,cheap and I still giggle at all the lifts and tables in catalogs.

Things I made with my 1975 table look identical to things I make on my deluxe table today.

Nothing wrong with buying a router table. However you can build one fast, almost for free and have fun doing it.

Thank you for your post. I have been contemplating routing a 3/4" piece of plywood to build a router table for a job I need to do. But if I can just attach my router to the bottom of a 1/2" piece of plywood, I don't know what I'm waiting for! :)

Just rub some paraffin wax on for smoothness?

Thanks,
Bill Whig

[Andrew Joiner]

Just rub some paraffin wax on for smoothness?

Thanks,
Bill Whig

Your welcome Bill.
You don't need wax, but it doesn't hurt. I only wax mine if I have featherboards set real snug.

[Guy Belleman]

You can spend a lot on a router table, for sure. Yes, you can spend almost nothing by mounting the router on a board and clamping to a bench, but most would like something a little more stable and permanent. Even building a router table seems to add up. I spent $200 just on a bench router table last year. Since then, I have decided I "need" a standalone router table. I decided to go this route, after shipping I was still a long ways ahead the cost of other designs and types: http://www.rt1000.com/index.html

You will love that Triton. I have been so happy with mine that it is the only router I intend to ever buy again. It is so smooth and quiet. The above the table adjustment is superb and eliminates buying any of those expensive router raisers. Good luck on your decision.

[Frederick Skelly]

A wise old craftsman once told me: "Fred, there's a whole lotta guys got a $200 router stashed in a $1200 router table. Dont get carried away there."

Mine is a good, flat piece of plywood thats been varnished slick and has a shop made fence I copied from Wood Magazine. Its mounted on a recycled stand made of 2x4s, into which I built some drawers for storage. I have $50 in this router table, including switch, wire and hardware. Shes not pretty and she doesnt have all the niceties you can buy these days. But Ill bet my results compare pretty favorably to hobbyists who have a similar size router in a high end router table.

FWIW.
Fred

Edit: No offence intended to those of you with high end stuff like that magnificent Festool router table for $1600. My intent is only to say it doesnt HAVE TO be costly to be effective. Besides, what I saved on a router table I spent later on hand planes. ;)

[Shawn Fisher]

I say build your own also! I went though the same decision process recently and built my own.. Free cabinet that I put wheels on that I also got free from my work. $60 plate and a used incra jig($150) from a guy I work with.(same guy that gave me the cabinet and top). Table is 27"x48". Works great! $210 total gotta like it!
280746

[Chris Parks]

Yeah thanks for all the responses.

My hesitation on building a table was that everything would not be 100% square which would in turn make everything i use the table for not 100% square.

However, I think I am just going to take the leap and make one.

Thanks again for the help.

Not a problem with a router table, the fence does not have to square to anything as it is a point cutting device not a flat blade where it does matter of course. The fence can even be anchored on a pivot one end and adjusted at the other which is in most cases all you need and makes adjustment very easy. All you really need is a flat board with the cutter sticking through, a straight bit of timber and two clamps. Clamp the whole thing to a few saw stools or the front of a bench and start routing. When it gets a bit old rinse and repeat. this has the added advantage of you can pick it up and move it anywhere, does not take much room in the workshop and costs about two dollars.