saw help

[Robert Culver]

Ok so call me crazy but Im going to try to make a couple saws or more or less convert and tune.

I purchased this saw http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JRBL48/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And what my intention is to re-handle these and redo the teeth on them from scratch as that sounds like what really needs to be done. Im go to set one up as a rip saw and the other as a cross cut having never attepted this it will be a trip for sure any helpful advice would be helpful

[Jim Koepke]

My first advise would be to try the saws the way they arrive.

To me, "starting from scratch" would involve taking the teeth off and starting over. If you do not have a way to punch the teeth, that can eat up a lot of files. Getting good files these days seems to be a bit of a challenge.

It is difficult to tell by the images on Amazon, but the saw seems to suffer a malady so common among modern saws made for the mass retail markets. It appears to have more set than a good joinery saw should have.

That is a fine opportunity for you to practice sharpening skills with the teeth that are already on the saw. This will allow you to try different rake and fleam angles to find what you like best.

After all, that is only part of the fun sharpening your owns saws can bring.

jtk

[Robert Culver]

Well I dont have a way to puy teeth back on so I may be stuck doing what you said or finding sombody who can I have had bad axe saw do this on other saws and love the way he took care of my other saws . However is is suposed to be a learning experience for me so I would much rather take care of it myself the biggest problem with most reviewers was that the saw did have to much set I picked up files and a saw set from tools for working wood . Am lookin for a jointing to and vice now but may just make a vise for now outof wood . What wood be the bestway to take the set out I have heard that you can hit it with a mill file and I have heard as well that you can clamp it between two other pieces of metal to do this. Setting up as a ripsaw is should I take the set out altogether?

[David Weaver]

You can stone a fair amount of the set off of the saws. They do all come fairly nasty. I don't have that particular saw, but I have one like it.

My advice is to press the set out of it (in a vise or between two boards), but keep the teeth and just change their geometry by filing them. Cutting new teeth in something by hand is a pain, it's a pain on bigger teeth because it's a lot of work, and on smaller teeth, because it's harder to get perfect spacing (perfect spacing isn't terribly important on small teeth, but it will irritate you).

Also, those saws, at least all the saws that I've tried, are fairly soft. While that's good for their ease on files, it does put an upper bound on how great they're ever going to be - they don't hold the biting kind of sharpness like a harder saw does.

[Robert Culver]

My expectations are low here as far as the final out come if anything I just need a saw that will work. I have made saw handles for old disstons and have had good results so the handle is more of a fun thing to play with. eventually I will most likely buy a lie Nielsen saw but I want t gain sharpening experience on something other than a expensive saw that is why im heading down this road.My experience with sharpening saws has been just my chain saw.

[David Weaver]

I would continue to use these as gents saws (with that handle style), and not try to add an open handle style to them. they are very light in the back and I think they'll leave you frustrated unless you make a very high hang handle. Otherwise, you'll feel like you're really riding them to get them to work.

Keep your eyes open for an open handled dovetail saw somewhere for maybe twice the price if you want to go that style. It'll have a heavier back.

[Jim Matthews]

I saw a video of maybe Mike Wentzloff using a machinist's vise, with a sheet of paper acting as a shim to take out excess set.

The paper is wrapped so that the teeth are exposed, but the paper covers the full length of the saw plate.
When the vise was fully cinched down, the paper can be reduced to no more than 4 thousandths thickness.

That left 4 thousandths of set on each side.

My results with stoning reset saws has been a mixed bag.
I prefer to put the blade over a piece of my hardest wood available, and tap the teeth with a hammer.

I use the round face of the hammer, so I can't kink the blade.
Results are slightly better than using a stone, depending on my caffeine intake.

For best results, get a decent saw set.
It's predictable, and seems to be what the Big Dogs are using.
http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/dept/TH/item/MS-SAWSET.XX

[Robert Culver]

jim I did just purchase this saw set but have no experience with it yet. Looks like a good tool I also picked up my files from that same sight and have always had good luck with anything I have bought from them. David I dint mean to confuse you but my intentions are to make a open handle one as you would typically find on a dovetail saw.

[george wilson]

I don't care for the peg teeth on the 2 Cherries saw.

If you use a machinist's vise for setting the teeth,make sure it has smooth jaws. Most of the time to get smooth jaws in one of them,I've had to remove the jaws and grind them smooth. But,you have to do it accurately to keep the jaws parallel,of course.

Something like those Versa Vises have smooth jaws. Everyone is copying them now. I think Grizzly sells a Shop Fox branded one.

[Robert Culver]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-VERSA-VISE-Workshop-Tool-/131090871072?pt=BI_Tool_Work_Holding&hash=item1e859ff320


George Is this the vise your talking about?

[Jim Matthews]

Found it...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3lKUsWFYbwA

PS - Do it the way George suggests, you'll get your best attainable results that way.

[Robert Culver]

Well isn't that a slick trick thanks for looking that up!!