Wild hair idea - fence clamp for router template hold down - will it work?

[Ron Humphrey]

I seem to be doing more and more volume work with router templates (25+ pieces). If the project warrants it or will be repeated regularly, I use permanently mounted toggle clamps coupled with glued-on sandpaper and built-in orienting stops on a sturdy template. Using tape for high volume work is a bit of a hassle for me.

Contemplating how to hold a workpiece on top of a bottom template for lower volume, but repeating projects, it occurred to me that using a "universal fence clamp" (see attached picture) or multiples thereof, may work. All that would be needed is holes drilled into the sides of the template. The clamps would be easily interchangeable for use on many different templates. For some shapes, the use of a cull would be helpful. The template itself would need to be thick enough to withstand the forces of the clamp.

Has anyone tried this? What are the potential downsides to this idea?

[Phil Thien]

It is a good idea as long as you don't have to route the entire perimeter of your work piece. And even if you did have to route the entire perimeter, you could always include four holes and attach two new clamps before removing the two that are in the way after the first half is routed.

You should submit your idea to a readers tip section, I think it is a winner.

[Ron Humphrey]

Thanks for the feedback. I wouldn't want to submit it until I have actually tried it.

Most of the work I've done so far is only on one side or involves cutting a shape inside the work piece - a handle hole for a tray or a recessed shape.

[Bill Huber]

I agree with Phil, it looks like a good idea, if you don't have to go all around the template I think it would be really fast and easy.

I would say give it a good try and then come back and let us know how it worked out.

[pat warner]

"What are the potential downsides to this idea? "
*****************************************
Without a close inspection of each set up, I have no idea.
Templet routing requires the work to be isolated and immobile.
The work has 12 modes of freedom. Up/down, L/R, IN/OUT, & the rotational opportunities around the x,y and z axies CC & CCW. Add em' up; you get 12!
Moreover, the rotational modes need not be on the centerlines of the axies of the work.
You want safety, rigidity, and confinement.
Do your clamps, in their locations, do that?
And do they do it without distorting the work or templet?
The clamps you show impose very little force on the work.
Is it enough? After your setup, grab the work and try to move it with a force you expect whilst routing. If it does not move you've met the openers.
I use 250 pound toggles, crowders, and fences so the work cannot get away from the templet. I also use a cast aluminum substrate (usually 1/2") that can stand ~1000 lbs/ft without bending >a mil or 2; I'm covered.

This jig (http://patwarner.com/images/tswebb4759.jpg) will handle Newton's laws of motion whether I put wood, Aluminum or plastic in it.
There's a lot to safe templet routing, it's a smart guy like you that questions the convention of work isolation. (Avoiding tape, for starters, puts you on the safety list too).

[Ron Humphrey]

Thanks for your encouragement Bill. I will have to give it a try - after I get the clamps. I'll post my results.

[Ron Humphrey]

Pat, These would be probably not be strong enough for large projects like furniture pieces. I am working mostly on relatively small items. I will use sandpaper and orientation stops on the template. While a relative amateur , I've had enough experience to respect the forces involved!

[Phil Thien]

The clamps you show impose very little force on the work.


Scratching my head on that one.

They should impose more force than toggles.

[Roy Turbett]

Ron -

You have a good idea. The downside is that you would have to drill multiple horizontal holes in all your templates for it to work and the clamps have to be moved if you need to rout all the way around the piece. Perhaps a universal sled for a template and work piece might work? I'm thinking you could take a piece of flat aluminum plate or plastic and drill and tap multiple holes. Replace the L bracket with threaded rod and simply thread the clamps in place. Use double stick tape or some other method to orient the template and workpiece and use the clamps to hold it in place on the sled. If necessary, loosen the clamps to reposition the piece on the sled. The drawback is that your patternmaker bit would have to have a shank that is long enough to clear the sled.

Roy

[Ron Humphrey]

Roy, I have not had a need for a 360 degree routing template and retrofitting existing templates is not my intention. If I took the time to build a template well, with toggles and stops, I’ll use it as-is. The random neuron that fired on this concept was for relatively quick and easy method for short-run projects that do not require the 360 degree routing. Having said that, as was mentioned above, with multiple clamps around the periphery, you could remove the clamp, a section at a time, replacing the clamp after finishing a section, for doing 360 degree work.


Your suggestion might be a good solution for others and spawn more ideas. Thanks for the response.

[Alan Schwabacher]

A guard above the bit could prevent the clamp from reaching the bit, even if you had a lapse of attention. I'm thinking of this type of guard:
280293

The image is linked from http://www.wealdentool.eu/rf_tips/rf_tips_25.html


(http://www.wealdentool.eu/rf_tips/rf_tips_25.html)

[Ron Humphrey]

More importantly, it may keep your hand from challenging the bit. The bit wins every time. Thanks for the safety reminder.

[Keith Outten]

Ron,

Have you considered a vacuum clamp?

[Ron Humphrey]

No, I am ignorant about vacuum pumps. A search on these forums produced no finds. Googling produced some info and I watched a short video. Looks like an interesting product with potential applications. I'm not williing to invest in the equipment necessary at this time and have some concerns about loosing the vacuum seal during operation. I would be interested in learning more if you can refer me to some reference info and non-commercial user reviews/articles.

[Mike Heidrick]

Youtube vacuum clamping. Tons of diy solutions out there. A CNC router might speed up your work a ton too depending on your work but if you don't want to even invest in vac clamping equip......

[Keith Outten]

Ron,

I built one of the Joe's Woodworking vac kits that uses a small compressor. I contacted the manufacturer to make sure that my compressor would work using the inlet for vacuum rather than the outlet for compressed air. There are several threads here on the topic by myself and others.

The easy and inexpensive way is to purchase a venturi style vacuum clamp that uses your air compressor to pull a vacuum on your part.

[Ron Humphrey]

I found lots of interesting videos regarding vacuum clamping. Looks very interesting and I will explore further. However, I don't see how it would work for the subject of this thread - holding a workpiece on top of a template for routing. Let me know if I'm missing something.

[Michael Mayo]

Roy, I have not had a need for a 360 degree routing template and retrofitting existing templates is not my intention. If I took the time to build a template well, with toggles and stops, I’ll use it as-is. The random neuron that fired on this concept was for relatively quick and easy method for short-run projects that do not require the 360 degree routing. Having said that, as was mentioned above, with multiple clamps around the periphery, you could remove the clamp, a section at a time, replacing the clamp after finishing a section, for doing 360 degree work.


Your suggestion might be a good solution for others and spawn more ideas. Thanks for the response.

Why couldn't you drill access holes in the middle of an OD template and apply the clamps on the net side of that template so you would not need to move any clamps while routing the outside template pattern? Just thinking out loud with little thought put into it.

[Keith Outten]

Ron,

Your template becomes part of the clamp. You would have to route a groove in the surface of your template and install a rubber seal in the groove then drill a hole for the vacuum. Place the template on top of the clamp, then the part to be routed on top of the template. As quick as you can open and close the vacuum valve you can replace parts to route them.
.