Todd Willhoit
01-19-2014, 12:02 PM
A few years ago I built Norm's NYW router table. I used Borg plywood for the carcass and oversized the MDF top. Otherwise I followed the plans. At the time I did not have a table saw. My circular saw with shop-made ZCI and a clamping guide made "nearly square parts", but some "issues" resulted in never completing the drawers or the dust collection cavity. As it is, I have a box that produces loads of dust and, by chance, has cubbies to store stuff...which accumulates dust.
I am going to rebuild the beast. Realizing that the each feature reflects personal taste and needs, I would like to know what folks find important. I have some areas of focus that come to mind for me but I would like to know what you think. Show us your pictures!
1. Overall Size: As mentioned, my current table follows the Norms design. I find it ok, but I don't have any other reference. I used ply, some use hardwood, some don't have a cabinet. What would you use? Would you go larger or smaller?
2. Work Surface:
2a. Size: How big is yours? I increased the width of the NYW top by about 6". In retrospect I think it is too large, but the overhang around all sides make it easy to clamp things to the table. I think I used two layers of 3/4" MDF for the top vs. the planned 3/4+1/2. It has worked well so far.
2b. Material: I am curious to know what others prefer for material too.
2c. Miter/T-Slots: Do you use them?
3. Fence: I didn't complete the NYW fence. I have used a piece of MDF or plywood, notched out at the bit, and clamped to the top. It won't win any beauty contest, but it works.
4. Lift Position: I didn't see the value in having the lift in the center of the surface. I moved it toward the rear to leave more work area in the front.
5. Lift Cavity: In my opinion, the cavity for the lift/router is a grossly oversized space-waster. In V2.0 I plan to make it just tall enough to have hand room under a fully lowered router, and wide enough to get my hands around to clear chips, etc.
6. Dust Collection: The NYW plan was for rear collection which works nicely for a secondary hose to collect chips at the fence. The downside is that it can't be as close to a wall. I saw one design that collected from the bottom. I'm not sure that that method is any more practical.
7. Bit Storage: Some have drawers like Norm, some use foam inserts, some keep bits in bags or boxes in a drawer. What works for you?
8. Extra Drawers: I would like to be able to store my other routers, wrenches, small jigs, etc. in the extra drawers at the bottom of the cabinet. It seems reasonable to keep this related stuff in one place. I could probably get an extra drawer by reducing the size of the router cavity.
9. External Power/Speed Control: A power switch on the outside would make it easier to incorporate some sort of E-stop.
10. Others: ???
So, how would you do it? What would you do if you were to revamp you table? With your input, this thread might become a SMC treatise on router table design.
Todd
I am going to rebuild the beast. Realizing that the each feature reflects personal taste and needs, I would like to know what folks find important. I have some areas of focus that come to mind for me but I would like to know what you think. Show us your pictures!
1. Overall Size: As mentioned, my current table follows the Norms design. I find it ok, but I don't have any other reference. I used ply, some use hardwood, some don't have a cabinet. What would you use? Would you go larger or smaller?
2. Work Surface:
2a. Size: How big is yours? I increased the width of the NYW top by about 6". In retrospect I think it is too large, but the overhang around all sides make it easy to clamp things to the table. I think I used two layers of 3/4" MDF for the top vs. the planned 3/4+1/2. It has worked well so far.
2b. Material: I am curious to know what others prefer for material too.
2c. Miter/T-Slots: Do you use them?
3. Fence: I didn't complete the NYW fence. I have used a piece of MDF or plywood, notched out at the bit, and clamped to the top. It won't win any beauty contest, but it works.
4. Lift Position: I didn't see the value in having the lift in the center of the surface. I moved it toward the rear to leave more work area in the front.
5. Lift Cavity: In my opinion, the cavity for the lift/router is a grossly oversized space-waster. In V2.0 I plan to make it just tall enough to have hand room under a fully lowered router, and wide enough to get my hands around to clear chips, etc.
6. Dust Collection: The NYW plan was for rear collection which works nicely for a secondary hose to collect chips at the fence. The downside is that it can't be as close to a wall. I saw one design that collected from the bottom. I'm not sure that that method is any more practical.
7. Bit Storage: Some have drawers like Norm, some use foam inserts, some keep bits in bags or boxes in a drawer. What works for you?
8. Extra Drawers: I would like to be able to store my other routers, wrenches, small jigs, etc. in the extra drawers at the bottom of the cabinet. It seems reasonable to keep this related stuff in one place. I could probably get an extra drawer by reducing the size of the router cavity.
9. External Power/Speed Control: A power switch on the outside would make it easier to incorporate some sort of E-stop.
10. Others: ???
So, how would you do it? What would you do if you were to revamp you table? With your input, this thread might become a SMC treatise on router table design.
Todd