Finish

[louis pittman]

I have a12inch cedar platter what finish to make it look natural looking

[Brian Kent]

Wood Turners Finish until it is the amount of gloss you desire.

[Jay Jolliffe]

How many coats does it usually take to get a nice finish. I tried it on something & wasn't to impressed....I guess it takes multiple coats.

[John Keeton]

...what finish to make it look natural lookingThis will mean different things to each of us. For me, a "natural" looking finish is not a gloss finish, but is a protective finish that looks and feels simply like very finely sanded and polished wood, i.e., it looks "natural" as if no finish has been applied. About the only way I have been able to achieve that look is either with thinned lacquer that is applied and rubbed out with 0000, or with a matte acrylic spray such as Krylon. My objective is to avoid any type of film build.

But, as I say, "natural" may mean something entirely different to others. For you, it may mean "color retention." I do a lot of gloss finishes, and have used Wood Turners Finish. Usually, it takes 5-6 coats, sanded to flatten the finish, and 4-5 more coats that are then sanded again to 600, then 1200, then buffed. With fresh product, one can achieve a glass finish without much change in the color.

[mike ash]

One of the finish procedures I have found that leaves "my idea" of a natural finish goes like this..... I do a fine sanding down to 320 and then soak it good with General Finishes salad bowl finish. On something soft like cedar or redwood, I will do 2 coats. Then I sand it back to 320 and apply a bees wax and buff it. My preferred bees wax formula is called "bees oil" from tree spirit. People just love this finish!!!!

[Rob Price]

To me a 'natural' finish is one that soaks into the wood and doesn't build a film. I like Danish oil or polymerized tung oil. You can still get decent shine with multiple coats/buffing. I just love the velvety feel of a wet sanded oil finish. You're still touching the wood. The downside is you get little protection- so it depends on how the bowl will be used. You can always wipe on a fresh coat down the road without the need for stripping.

Nothing wrong with a film finish, I use WTF on kitchen utensils like pepper mills, ice cream scoops, etc. I do something similar to John K and get very glossy results.

[Gary Baler]

Brian, I've done lots of cedar (in Colorado we have a lot of juniper which is a cedar). I've found that the oils or sap in juniper does not interact well with oil based finishes very well. I use Deft lacquer sanding sealer ... usually two coats sanding between coats. The sanding sealer makes the grain pop and allows the red to become brilliant. Finally, I use Deft finish ... usually 5 or 6 very thing coats ... build it up as much as you want. Be sure that your sanding goes to a high enough grit that you don't leave sanding marks ... because they will definitely show through on this wood ... especially on the knots. Finish sand with at least 600 and apply a wax of your choice.

Any oil based product tends to leave gummy spots that won't sand out ... and they may not appear till several days after you think you've finished the product.

I've tried everything else I can think of and this is the best I've found. I sell alot of stuff and it really kills me to have a customer call and tell me they have a problem with a bowl or lamp ... and I can't fix it. I'm new here and know that lots of guys know all the chemistry, etc. but this works for me.

[Gary Baler]

Another thought ... I was responding to Louis ... not Brian ... sorry. I know you were looking for a more natural finish ... but cedar tends to discolor with anything else I've tried. I have a pair of lamps that I made and finished this way that are about 10 years old. They have have retained their bright colors and really don't have that plastic look.

[John Keeton]

Louis, as you probably have realized, finishing is a separate realm unto itself! Everyone has their favorites.

I should have added this to my comments, but in my turnings, I generally use three types of finishes. For utility items, of which I do few, I use walnut oil. As mentioned, there is really nothing quite so comfortable IMO, than a finely sanded oil finish. It is easily renewed, and ages nicely. Also, as mentioned, there are other oils that will give one a nice "oiled" finish.

Then, there is the "natural" or matte finish. I am finding I use this more and more, when previously, a high gloss - "glass" - finish was my "go to." The matte, or natural finish, seems to let one be drawn to the wood, and not the finish. I normally will use this type of finish on a rustic piece, or a relatively plain piece of wood that just has a nice color or grain - and, there is a difference in "grain" and "figure." For most figured woods (not all) I like a built up film finish that really makes them show the chatoyancy. For most of my more artsy pieces, I use figured woods, and therefore, I use a film finish.

If your platter is functional, I would go with an oil finish. If it is for display, then perhaps one of the more "in the wood" finishes that will provide less of a utility appearance.